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Old 01-28-2007, 01:18 PM   #41
motoged OP
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Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Oddometer: 906
La Paz: We didn't ride out of La Paz down to do the south cape loop as we initially planned...initial itineray ideas shifted when actually at a time and place....good plans can always be improved, and with Darren's flexibility, we shifted the schedule a bit.

We spent 2-3 sleeps in La Paz before taking the truck and bikes down to San Jose del Cabo on Dec 30th...

A day ride out to Tecolote was the only riding we did there....we seemed to be lost in "Ride Limbo" or something. Darren's guts were rumbling and I was just indecisive (between moments of clear and strong opinion)

A view north from town...



Too many days on the road and some things start to look good...



Oh yeah...margaritas were consumed from time to time...



The gloves I decided to buy at Malcolm Smith's Emporium on the way down were retrieved from their place in the gear bag as I thought the Spider Man motif was appropriate for night riding in town....



We lived on the edge of danger by riding w/out helmets that evening (as you know, tequila and such influences reduce the chance of serious head injury when riding in a new city at night....)...until I noticed one of about 5 police hanging out on the malecon seeing us and pointing to his head indicating helmets were expected....


One day I noticed a BarBQue restaurant just east of the town square and suggested we try it....Darren agreed and, with a hoot, we set off for our last meal in La Paz before heading south again...

I had been jokingly suggesting to Darren from time-to-time that he should get a haircut....not particularly because he needed one, but perhaps to help me feel more comfortable with my "desert ride bob" that I got just before leaving home (at 55 years of age I am starting to like my hair shorter than when younger....I no longer tear up when I get my curls shorn)

We had the bikes and some gear loaded on the truck that evening in prep for an early morning departure so we drove downtown and found a place to park (not easy sometimes)....on the way to the restaurant we passed a "Beauty Salon" and I suggested again he might get a haircut....to my dismay he agreed....some influences were at work...







and in we went....I tried my best to use my fundamental Spanish "sin verbo"
to explain the plan to the lady....Darren sat down and asked me "What did you tell her?" I jokingly responded that I had told her to give him a military haircut and his look of horror was priceless...too bad most of those pics are blurred as I did not want to be rude and use the flash...

I then reassured him that I was joking....but felt equally horrified when I saw her grab the electric clippers and take her first swath. "Holy Fok ", I thought...."he's gonna kill me."
I was already rehearsing the mantra "Hey, it'll grow back" when I saw that she was starting to do a good job...



It didn't look so bad from a distance...






Darren's potential for fratricide diminished as time went on and the final cut looked not bad at all....but he could have had a little more off the top




Feeling uncertain about his new look, we propelled ourselves to the restaurant and, upon entering, saw that it was a relatively upscale joint with a white table-clothed section in the front and an open patio section at the back which housed a large wood-fired barbeque kitchen with several chefs hard at work. The clientelle were mostly tourist groups...we decided to stay.

The waiter that sat us promptly disappeared and no one seemed to give us much notice for about 5 minutes. As seasoned travellers , this seemed not too unusual....a different waiter seemed to take an interest in asking us what we would like to drink and, after going down the usual cerveza list, offered Indio beer (a primo dark beer that was recommended the day before by Oscar the Tangy margarita purveyor)...we ordered two and settled into the menus that I managed to find on a counter nearby....

The beer was a while in coming and the original waiter who had seated us approached and asked if we would like anything to drink...we let him know that we had some Indios on the way...

Looking at the menu (which looked like it would be good food offered), Darren asked what their soup of the day was (he was making a stellar effort at learning the language and applying it when he could).

The waiter took a step back and, looking down his nose a bit, scolded us mildly saying...."Oh, we don't have soup here".

Not having soup is understandable...the condescending attitude was the first we had encountered any where since leaving the USA...and was less understandable...

Darren and I looked at one another...and decided an appetizer would clearly need to come in a different form than Sopa del Dia...

The waiter offered the daily special as Cowboy Steak and something else...

Darren ordered the special and I had my preferred steak....a Rib steak....

Our beer came after we asked for them again and it was beginning to feel like something was mildly awry.

Now, Darren and I are not high maintenance type guys (well, okay ....I am when it comes to some things ) ....but a tone seemed to have been set....

We were enjoying our second beer when our steaks arrived. Everything looked good and we started....I thought the seasoning on my steak was the best I had ever had so I was a happy camper....Darren's steak looked good although I could not identify the cut (it was the size of my large rib steak ....and had a thin "vertical" bone in the middle...later suggested by others that it may have been a blade steak....a rather inexpensive cut of beef that is tough unless seriously marinated).... I was stacking up the inedible gristle and fat as I ate (as an omnivore, I decided years ago to not swallow flesh that was not readily broken down by simple mastication)....Darren saw this pile of stuff builing on my plate and, not being sure how to respond to my unusual eating habit, joked...."would you like my gristle, too?"

I was raving about the flavour of my steak, but Darren did not think his was anything "Special".....the air was a little thick with tension it seemed, but I wrote it off to my imagining things....

We asked por la cuenta and were confused and shocked when it arrived...WTF ?????????????

I recognized the $210 MX for my rib steak, but we were both confused by the $400 MX for Darren's ....

Darren and I discussed our sense of this briefly.....Darren called the "We-don't make-soup-here" waiter to the table and DArren set to trying to solve this financial-culinary mystery....the waiter reassured us that, indeed, the Cowboy Special was forty US dollars...

Darren pursued his concern that a steak of that nauture certainly could not cost twice that of mine....but the waiter's demeanour was neither helpful nor reassuring....

We decided that we would pay the bill without further ado and accept the fact that the tip was certainly built in to the asking price.

Before leaving, I walked over to the main chef at the fire grill aand thanked him for the steak that I had enjoyed and, as a feigned aside, asked him what the price was for the Cowboy Special. He looked over my shoulder to our waiter and stumbled around a bit, and offered the info that it was "$400-something....he wasn't exactly sure".

I relayed this to Darren hoping it might offer some consolation....but it didn't....

He was understandably feeling taken advantage of with this experience...we sauntered quietly back past the zocalo towards the truck...
on the way we saw an ice-cream place and looked around....I was full and was not going to have any...Darren asked for some and, on his own negotiated two flavours....he got two separate cups with two separate flavours....this confusion only added to his sense of frustration and anger....he was NOT a very happy guy at that point....

We returned to La Gardenia and, were reminded in hindsight that it is a good thing to ask the price of something first in such situations....

When he processed the whole thing over the next day or so, he smilingly rationalized that HE, indeed, was "The Cowboy" in that situation...
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Ged Schwartz
Kamloops , BC


Baja '05 , Baja 06/07 , Baja 08/09 , BC Alpine Single Track




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