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Old 01-31-2007, 10:50 PM   #66
motoged OP
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Joined: Feb 2006
Location: Kamloops, BC
Oddometer: 870
Todos Santos is an agricultural area as it is supplied with adequate water from the mountains...




And the town itself has an air of nouveau riche these days, but the "old Mexico" flavour is to be found....





Some folks have done a wonderful job of ressurecting buildings that were falling-down adobe shells when I first went to Todos in 1989...







After Todos, we scouted some beaches for the view and to see if some coastal trails might take us back to the Los Cerritos turnoff from whence we came....we happened upon an overpriced surfer hotel and asked the young American owner some directional questions....and he pointed southward...




There is a lot of real estate development going on all over....and this lot was for sale...



So, I'm going to sell a kidney and make a down payment...



So, with a last glance northwards, I clicked into first and motored towards Los Cerritos...




As I have been heard to say that "No matter where you are in outback Mexico, if you stand in one place for a few minutes for a smoke....a Mexican is bound to come out of nowhere...."....

Sure as hell...



Cool rig....articulated beast of some sort....




So I nodded as one is want to do in such situations....and headed into Los Cerritos....an overcrowded surfer beach ...




We wound through some newly bulldozed trails in a real estate development between the beach and the highway for a few miles, and then did some pavement....for too long....and passed the turnoff...we stopped for a beer at a tienda and considered our options....and decided to slab it to Cabo....

We warmed the knobbies for a while and passed a wide arroyo coming cown from the mountains to the east and I recognized it from my 1994 ride on the R80 G/S.... We turned around approached the quad rental business located at the south end of the bridge over the dry riverbed and I confirmed my hunch with one of their guides....YES....this arroyo led to the small pueblo of La Candelaria....the place where I searched for a Curandero in 1994....






The arroyo was quite wide and consisted of deep and loose sand that was a challenge even at speed....thank the gods for steering dampers...

the bike was working hard and the sand was not only deep and loose, it was seriously washboarded due to the hordes of tourist quadriders....




As we rode eastwards we saw a group of quadders approaching....




On our beach days east of San Jose, Darren and I noticed and commented to one another various aspects of quad tours that gave us some concern....as seasoned, non risk-taking, sensible WATGATT , obey all the rules kind of rider guys

We consistently noticed quad renters:
1) riding like hell trying to keep up with the guide and the Alpha riders up front;
2) their ride gear tended to consist of flip flops, Walmart shorts with big flower prints, wife-beater T-shirts, baseball helmets without chinstraps, and yellow "dirt bandanas" (most likely provided by rental agency as a person must inhale 10 lbs of dust in an hour ride);
3) every third rider had a child under the age of six sitting on their lap...


now...add these factors up, have one of them crash (likely into one another), and imagine the injury list

More evidence for reasons to be concerned was witnessed on our trip north a few days later at the same arroyo....stay tuned....




Anyways....as we rode further up the wash, we saw a quad abandoned due to what appeared to be a blown rear shock.....

after a few miles we approached the end of the arroyo and headed up the narrow double track trail on the north side of the canyon...and wound our way a few more miles into La Candalaria.....

Years before when I rode there in search of one of their alleged Curanderos (ie. Healers...shaman type folks....Carlos Castenada stuff), i remember asking around a bit if I could be directed to a Curandero....and I was directed to the school house which had a red cross symbol on a door by the office.....

What did I expect??? Some grisled old person willing to take me to my spiritual outer reaches with a handful of peyote ??? (well....kinda)...

I suppose when one is on such a meaningful spiritual quest you don't approach it so bluntly or naively

The road out of La Candalaria would offer side roads on occasion and, after turning a few of them down, my 13 year old recollection of the road system took us on a delightful winding road that brought us right into the western hills of San Jose....






A PRIMO DAY
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Ged Schwartz
Kamloops , BC


Baja '05 , Baja 06/07 , Baja 08/09 , BC Alpine Single Track





motoged screwed with this post 02-01-2007 at 12:36 AM
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