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Old 03-01-2007, 10:45 PM   #1
potatoho OP
Cheese and Rice!
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Joined: Aug 2004
Location: Sea-level
Oddometer: 4,706
LC4E, BST40, jet4power

Just starting my own thread. I'm bad about thread-jacking

I was just making another round of changes and took some pictures.

Here is an extra dial-a-jet I had. I installed it onto the boot and used the filter kit as a little stubby air source rather than routing it up the frame. Not sure how well this is working at this point, but I had it, and it was an easy install. The fuel source is a replacement bleed screw with a spigot on the end. So all in all, I just had to punch a hole in the rubber boot, replace the bleed screw, and then run some plumbing. Like I said though, I'm not sure how well it is doing yet. I think they do work as advertised, except that my implementation may not be 100% because I put it in a pretty large venturi.

I didn't realize at the time I did this that the area was so vaccuous. May not be getting any dial-a-jet action at all. It can be a somewhat subtle effect. The little box acts as a mini carburetor which supplies a vaporious air-fuel mixture to supplement the normal carb circuits. Poor install notwithstanding, it makes sense to me that something like this could work well in a CV application. At some point I'll probably disable it just to check its function, though that will involve plugging both fuel and air sources so it's kind of a pain.

Here is an oversized main jet drain nut I got from yostperformance. I drained the BST40 bowl and it only contained 40mL of fuel. And that's with a 45 degree bike drip angle. This is very low capacity in my opinion.

Blurry in the background you can see the location where I installed a Bosch #11027 lambda sensor onto the front portion of my midpipe.

Here is my jet4power meter tied onto my dash. I really use this a lot because it is such a simple system. You only have a ground wire w/ eyelet to screw into your frame somewhere, and then a wire to connect to the lambda sensor. A 9V transistor battery connector is also present and you just stick that onto your bars or something. Then you just warm up the bike, and tune all of your ranges to the rightmost green light. Done.

The meter is nice because it helps to figure out issues. You can watch the AFR as you ride and see what is going on. For example, tonight I was able to diagnose that I had fuel starvation, and also that I have some uneven combustion at higher rpms. Dialing in the idle mixture is very easy, you just turn the fuel screw until the light you want is lit. If you change air filter, air box, pilot, or other settings this can be pretty handy because it all sounds pretty much the same even though the mixture can be anywhere from 14:1 to 12:1.

The one thing I haven't done yet is to get the bike running well

I threw a few things at it tonight so hopefully I have fixed one or more of the outstanding issues. I've got the AFR where I want, but the carb is flaking out on me a bit. Hopefully will have it sorted out by the weekend.

I put on a new spring-reinforced (to avoid kinks) fuel line, changed pilot air jet back to 1.2, installed a deep bowl nut. Not sure why I went back to 1.2 from 1.1. I just was never impressed with the change. If I can fix the fuel starvation and get the AFR to read without fluctuations at mid rpms then it will be pretty good. Those are my main issues right now.
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