04-08-2007, 11:30 AM
Joined: Jun 2005
Location: Eastern Cape, South Africa
The route for the day takes us inland, but instead of going through the Tete corridor we want to bypass most of Southern Malawi and enter right by the lake just above Mangochi. It will be a three day ride to get there.
Crossing the Save river.
Flour still gets made the old fashioned way here.
The road surface keeps you busy. For an hour we try and keep to 80kph whilst dodging these.
Every so often you hit one that you just couldn't miss. I have to to give it to BMW, they know how to make rims. Not one dent.
There is a shortage of fuel stations on this route though and between today and tomorrow we are going to need three tanks of fuel each. When planning the trip I was aware of this problem and considered taking containers with, but it's a bit impractical to carry an extra 40l on each bike.
Anyway, as long as there are cars and a demand there will be someone supplying.
At the last available fuel stop we buy beer and canned chicken viennas and stop next to the road for breakfast. I cannot recommend canned chicken viennas.
We stop at the Beira - Chimoyo crossroad to buy a bunch of bananas and to look for fuel. Turns out I'm one hell of a popular guy in these parts.
While I'm waiting for the fuel to be fetched Mrs Jockey takes a walk around and find this place. You'll never guess it, but it's the local cinema.
It also turns out that selling fuel out of containers is illegal. So we ride some way off, chasing our supplier with the container strapped to his bicycle so that we can refuel with less crowding. Note the bananas.
Some roadside scenery.
The road around Ngorongosa National Park is newly built and excellent riding. Also for the first time there are no pedestrians on the roads. The scenery changes to a dry bushveld type thing.
We stop to buy fuel from the roadside again. Now, one has to bear in mind that in order for these guys to supply you with fuel, they need to drive about 300km to get the fuel to where they sell it. So there has to be a mark up. At a filling station 20l will cost about 400 000 MT. The fuel I bought at the crossroad I bartered down to 800 000 MT. Thats double! After much scribbling of figures in the sand these bastards won't take less than 1mil MT. Caia will be the next town where I might get fuel and I'll either just make it or just not make it, so we leave.
As it happens I don't make it, but gets helped with 5l by a friendly South African tour guide at our overnight stop at James White's place. Here's the hut we slept in.