04-08-2007, 11:43 AM
Joined: Jun 2005
Location: Eastern Cape, South Africa
We reach the Zambezi river nice and early after having refuelled from containers again in Caia. Here you have to cross with a ferry and like always bikes can move to the front of the queu. Cost us something like R11 to cross. Bargain.
Unlike any other ferry Iv'e been on this one is as orderly as a military parade. Mostly because the biggest Idi Amin on steroids I have ever seen is in charge. One hell of a speciman. I would have taken a picture but I was too scared.
On the ferry you have the trucks first, then the cars, then bikes, then people. No driver is allowed out of his vehicle. Mrs Jockey got of her bike to take this pic and quickly learned that she too aren't allowed to leave her seat.
When the ferry docks the pedestrians wait where they stand untill all the vehicles have disembarked and they are given permission to get off.
There's some large mokoro about.
The one bad thing about a trip like this, where you are doing long distances, is that you can seldom stop and take pictures of the interesting people and things you pass by. And you see some amazing things. Every couple of km you see something that you can ponder on for an hour. But you don't get an hour, you get a couple of minutes or seconds before you see the next thing. It's actually a bit of a sensory overload.
The third time we pass woman washing clothes on the main road we stop to get some pictures though. It's the only flat hard surface in this country of sand.
And in just this short interaction we find that regardless of their circumstances they can still have fun.
We ride for some time and stop in a town to get a bite to eat at a tavern. They only have cheese rolls, so that's what we order, cheese rolls and beer. Unexpectedly the green fungal growth is on the bread, not on the cheese. We swallow it down none the less.
We turn off the main road after Mocubo heading up towards Gurue. The road is good.
We are some way off the tourist route now and start to see rock domes pushing up into the sky.
With the landscape changes so does the soil. Even the people appear more well-off and the towns look like something.
The road starts winding up and down which is just heaven. The scenery improves around every corner. Coming into Gurue we find the valleys covered in lush green tea plantations.
We are to sleep over in Gurue but I have no clue where. Like I said, it's not on the tourist route. After checking out the options the Pensao do Gurue turns out to be the most upmarket establishment. This is it.
We have dinner in the cafe down below.
The main street. It is not paved because Gurue is where the tar stops.
The view from our room.
We don't sleep well, there's a disco under our room and our window frames have come undone to the extent that they cannot close.
We never see a single white person in the town. We feel a bit far away from home. At least tomorrow night we should be at Lake Malawi.