[Originally posted January 3, 2007]
I knew I'd found civilization when I rode by a BMW motorcycle dealer on the way into town. Yes, I stopped.
Cabo San Lucas is a party town. There might actually be more tourists than residents, and they're all having a Very Good Time. Gigantor hotels line the waterfront and the marina is full of multimillion-dollar megayahts. I want to hate it but I actually had a lot of fun.
I found a cute hotel recommended by the guidebook, a block away from the marina. Almost as soon as I had unpacked I was adopted by a local; a bubbly 55-yo blonde woman named Diana who has been living in Cabo for 19 years and knows *everyone*. She gave me a quick orientation to Cabo, including the local politics, and then introduced me to few other old-timer expats. I spent about an hour talking to a guy who has been captaining fishing boats for the last 24 years. They showed me pictures of Cabo San Lucas from twenty years ago - no hotels, no roads, just beach. Wow.
I ate dinner in the nice Italian restaurant adjacent to my hotel. A tip for social travelers: When eating at a restaurant, sit at the bar. Bar people are talkative and most likely drunk. I met, in chronological order:
* A british couple on their honeymoon. They live in NYC and work for the consulate.
* A man writing a book about the history of common markets and how they have evolved with societies.
* A small group from Canada and Montana exchanging bear stories (yes, I have a few).
* A local Mexican hottie who seemed to enjoy my flirtation in broken spanish.
* A somewhat deranged guy about my age who was certain the CIA uses orbital mind control lasers to control the price of beer in Cabo.
This last guy was by far the most interesting. He talked constantly and I would swear he was high, but he never left to snort anything and he was a riot all evening. It turns out he had the room immediately adjacent to mine, so I had one last drink while he jabbered about night vision goggles and cellphone bugs. At some point (for reasons I can only guess) he laid out on the table the no less than SEVEN prescriptions he takes every day:
Cabo San Lucas is nuts.
It's also hot here. I finally removed the liners from my motorcycle gear.
Now I'm off to pick up Catherine from the San Jose del Cabo airport. She will be here a week. Our mission: Beaches and margaritas!