[Originally posted January 11, 2008]
Surprisingly, San Jose del Cabo is actually a really nice town. It's more expensive than most of the towns in Baja but it hasn't been flooded with partygoers the way Cabo San Lucas has.
Catherine and I spent two nights in San Jose in a little posada downtown. During the day we lounged around the beaches, read books, and drank Coronas. The beaches themselves are a short walk from town and nearly obscured by a long chain of luxury megahotels in the "Zona Hotelera". The first night we stumbled across one that stood out: The Cabo Azul was lit with candles and torches, made extensive use of dark woods, and looks like it was designed by a Mexican Frank Lloyd Wright. It was *gorgeous* and totally empty, having just opened three months ago. We ate in the restaurant, chatted up some timeshare salespeople sitting in the bar, jumped in the jacuzzi, and spent the next day on the beach under their palapas. Apparently this is what you get when you spend $400/night for a room (we checked):
The next day was our first motorcycle ride 2-up of any significance. We set out along the dirt road that follows the beaches of the East Cape, stopping every half hour to stretch out. The 640A has passenger pegs but it is not designed with passenger comfort in mind, especially with two people's worth of gear. I was a little concerned that Catherine would be nervous about riding on sandy roads but both the bike and my passenger seemed to have a good time. The scenery probably helped:
We stumbled across Baja's least likely internet cafe, Crossroads:
Our destination was the dive camp of Cabo Pulmo
, a collection of bungalows and restaurants on what is apparently the only live coral reef in the Sea of Cortez.
[Google doesn't know where Cabo Pulmo is, so no map. It's towards the north end of the "east cape", the dirt road the follows the coast from San Jose to Los Barriles.]
This is a place I will probably return to with friends, especially for a long weekend's dive trip. They have a large beach house for rent, plus the bungalows are super-cute:
One night we moved a foam mattress up to to a private deck and slept outside. In contrast to the storms that are apparently tormenting San Francisco, the weather here is perfect:
We woke up in the middle of the night to un gato purring on top of us. In the morning he was still there, asleep. Friendly little things.
Unfortunately at this point Montezuma's Revenge set in, and I was partially debilitated for several days. All in all, I can't really complain - a beautiful location, no need to travel, and a friend to take care of me. My only further hope is that next time I am bedridden it will be somewhere with a stable internet connection.
By the last day I had finally recovered enough to go on a snorkeling trip with Catherine. We dove along the reef, poked at giant brightly colored lobsters, and swam with sea lions. Sadly I forgot the camera at home so I don't have pictures of Catherine turning green from seasickness on the way back.
Sadly, all vacations must come to an end, and sooner for some of us than others. My plan was to spend Catherine's last night in Santiago, a cute inland town about halfway to the airport. Unfortunately Santiago has only a single posada with four rooms and they were lleno
when we arrived, so we rode 20 minutes north to Buena Vista, a sleepy beach town just south of Los Bariles. Much to the dismay of my passenger, it was getting dark and I was riding fast to catch the daylight, but we arrived intact and even managed to watch a few more episodes of Boston Legal on my laptop before turning in. Yes, it's an addiction.
The trip to the airport was uneventful except I marked on my GPS what I thought was (and turned out to be) the turnoff for my adventure that afternoon. Saying goodbye was sad:
You may notice from this picture that I rather stupidly forgot my shaving kit in Cabo San Lucas.