[Originally posted January 11, 2008]
Leaving the airport, I plotted a course directly across the Sierra de la Laguna - the only mountain range in Baja Sur. The Moon Guide describes a dirt road, passable only in the dry season, which cuts directly across from just north of Santa Anita to just south of Todos Santos. Adventure!
For those of you looking to ride this in the future, the northwest intersection is at N23 16.667 W110 09.002 76 ft and the southeast intersection is at N23 14.617 W109 44.626 669 ft. Or you can just find the road marked "Las Naranjas" (only from the north!) about 8km north of Santa Anita, like I did.
The route is gorgeous, if treacherous. This is Baja's version of Usal Road, and probably looks like it during the wet season. It occurred to me several times that if I injured myself out here I might not be found for days so I rode carefully. Unfortunately my pictures don't do the scenery justice. I also didn't get pictures of the quizzical looks that the weathered campesinos
living in the mountains on the northeast end gave me.
I spent the night in Todos Santos. It's a cute town that once served as the capitol of Baja Sur and got it's start as a major sugarcane growing and refining center. Close to the Pacific coast, Todos Santos now hosts large numbers of surfers, but it also has a large number of 19th century historical buildings and one decaying-but-interesting museum. It even has a (very bad) sushi restaurant and (finally!) decent produce:
Read the caption (go to flickr
for the fullsized image) of that last one.
What Todos Santos does not have is shaving cream or a razor more sophisticated than a disposable Bic. I'd rather shave with a sharpened Pez dispenser. The scarcity of shaving supplies is odd because very few Mexicanos have beards. Even more strange, the disposable Bics are only sold at farmacias
, not at the supermercados
where every other imaginable toiletry item can be found.
Breakfasting at a taco stand, I met a local todosantaņo lawyer about my age who builds racing dune buggies for fun. I got his business card just in case I needed some, uh, legal advice.