02-16-2008, 06:57 PM
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#7
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SideShowBob's Brother
Joined: Mar 2006
Location: NorthWet Washington
Oddometer: 1,346
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here is my paint by numbers canister removal
here http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS
and here http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/TankVenting
basically it goes like this:
- buy ~10' of 7/32 vent tubing (NAPA or your choice of parts house)
- buy 2 small sintered bronze fuel filters (will use as vent filters)
- follow the "950CarbsTankVentSAS" picture gallery for most of this, then "TankVentying" for larger overview.
- left side fairing:
- remove the 8 or screws and open it up, remove all contents, take it all out. http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139982821250580018on
- on the inner panel, near the area next to the radiator tank, drill through the panel with a 1/2" drill then angle the bit vertically to create a elongated hole through the inner panel to allow the left tank vent tube to pass through vertically without kinking
- place the inner panel back up into the place that it nomally sets.
- Take a piece of hose roughly 12-16" long, attach one end to the tank vent nipple, loop it up and over the upper screw mount, tye wrap it to a small hole drilled through the web of that screw mount, plug in one of the fuel filters, then extend with hose down to the skid pan through the aforementioned hole. http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139983233567440578
- right side fairing:
- remove the 8 or so screws and open it up and take it all out.
- follow the same idea on this side as was followed with the right side, drill through the upper web with a small drill for the upper tye wrap
- place the inner panel into its usual place, place a 12-16" hose attached to the tank vent, up and over the upper screw mount and then tye wrap to stand off web, down to the other filter then extend with more hose down to the skid pan.
- this side does NOT require drilling through the panel to exit the vent hose.
- Under airbox vacuum accuated valve
- this is the unit bolted to the lower airbox. This requires the carbs to come out, intake manifolds removed, and then remove the lower airbox. before removing the lower airbox, unbolt the valve so it will stay in the vee of the engine.
- when the lower airbox is removed you can now remove the valve and all the associated hoses.
- on the left side of the intake manifolds there are now two abandonded vacuum hose nipples
- remove and replace these hose nipples with 6mm x 1.0 x 10mm socket head bolts
- SAS blank plates
- the rear cylinder is easy to get to, it is on the left side of the rear cylinder
- the accuating valve that was located aft of the airbox is associated with the SAS system. remove it if not already gone
- the hose systems that go forward to the front cylinder can be removed now that the lower airbox is removed
- Now onto the front plate:
- disconnect the front connector on the coil plug to gain better access to the upper bolt that holds the SAS plate
- http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139984290129395842
- http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139984324489134226
- http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139984358848872610
- http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139984388913643698
- remove the 4 bolts that hold the radiator, remove the 3 bolts that hold the oil tank
- from the right side of the bike looking directly at the lower bolt on the SAS plate you will notice that there is a hose/tube that covers up the access to the bolt
- taking a long slender, strong pry bar (screw driver works), put the tip against the forward side of the hose/tube then the "heel" against the oil tank mount tab, push/pry the handle forward to reveal the bolt head, hold this position, go to next step http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139984187050180690
- with a 6" 1/4 drive and 8mm socket, remove the lower bolt.
- you can choose to leave the reed valves in or remove them. if you remove them you will need to put a small about of RED high temp RTV on the interior gasket surface of the blank plates to seal them. i typically remove the reeds.
- reverse the previous steps to install the front plate, I usually hold the plate in place with sealant on it, hold it in place and start the upper bolt, then pry the hose/tube/tank to then install the lower bolt.
- Carb bowl vents
- cut two pieces of vent hose, one 10" and one 11" long,
- remove and toss the Y hose
- the 11" one goes on the front carb, 10" on the rear
- the rear carb hose will go down through the old Y hose
- knock out the two alum inserts that were associated with the lower airbox vacuum valve, slightly enlarge the left side one, block the other like this photo: http://picasaweb.google.com/Head2Wind/950CarbsTankVentSAS/photo#5139982430408555938
- the front carb hose will go down through the ENLARGED hole that used to be one of the bolt/mounts for the vacuum valve.
This should be it. For SAS/Canister removal
go here for video series on how to disect the mufflers: http://www.youtube.com/user/head2winnd
__________________
2004 KTM 950 ADV- my favorite scoot
1992 KTM 300 EXC-Sold-long live the old race bike..
2002 BMW F650 GS-Dakar wife's new scoot, and she loves it!
2009 PitsterPro XTR250-inexpensive and lightweight training bike
KTM LC8, LC4 Tuning Solutions and more...www.ADVmachines.com
Accessory systems power and control... www.MotoLumen.com
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