I'd like to continue with new info on that but cannot find the old thread.
Please advise if you have it. Otherwise, i'll continue this new one.
If you haven't seen Matt Parkhouse's article (Matt's in the hospital right now by the way so if you're the praying type... you know what to do.) in the BMOMOA March 08, or if you haven't seen the other thread, here's a quick summary.
If you take off your oilcooler cover plate, and measure the gap from the face of the filter to the flat machined surface of the engine case, it should be 3mm. Pics in magazine, and my own to follow. Maybe tomorrow i'll upload them.
Matt states that your white O-ring should be squished to look kind of square in its cross section after service if it was installed right.
You are supposed to use the metal ring shims to adjust closure of this gap to 3mm.
My gap during an oil change today (measuring the old filter) was 5mm approx.
No need for panic. She's running fine. Time to shim.
I put in the new filter and the gap was different! It was 4.3mm. So I pulled out both old and new filters and a vernier caliper and measured length of each entire unit (squeezing together to seat hinge in the middle).
Then I measured each can segment (metal end to metal end) separately and guess what. Same part #. Same "made in austria" but they were off by approximately 0.6mm. That's what I call a manufacturing process out of spec.
So, word to the wise. Get a vernier caliper and measure each oil filter.
I ended up putting 3 shims in with the new filter which brought my gap down to 3.4Xmm and made it so that without the aid of the screws, I could not just push on the cover to make it compress enough to lie flat against the engine case. So, I feel like i'm safe with the 3.4mm.
Now, I measured 5 shims (that's all I had) and all of them measured exactly 0.28mm, so i'm guessing it's safe to state that this is the correct shim thickness.