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Old 06-30-2008, 12:25 PM   #195
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Please don't call it 'Frisco
Oddometer: 523

The coastal route from Veracruz to Coatzacoalcos was one of the most pleasant and relaxing parts of this trip.

Note to other travelers: Take that little coastal loop between Saltabarranca and Catemaco. There is a super-cute little beach town called Montepío with restaurants and a few hotels that I'm hoping to return to someday.

Here's some shots from the route:

This was the perfect place to have lunch, in a tiny pueblo with maybe 10 houses. The ocean is maybe 100 yards away. I'm obsessed with this type of tree; it looks like a giant fern with red flowers:

Part of the route took us through a biosphere reserve area:

Gavin's bike actually ran out of gas sometime along this stretch, but I donated some from my kamel... I mean KTM. I have pretty close to exactly twice the range.

This was a bad week for the Multistrada. At one point we had to take an, uh, unconventional entrance to a cuota. Entrances and exits to cuotas are pretty tightly controlled so you can't evade the toll booths. Both the Bicimapas (in my Zumo) and the Garmin Mexico Maps (in Gavin's Zumo) tend to assume that any intersection of two roads is, in fact, an intersection. Nope.

While we pondered the unfortunate directions, we watched a local motorcyclist drive down a narrow foot path, through a fence, across opposing traffic, across the median, and off in the direction we wanted to go. Why the hell not?

"Hey, what the hell?"

"I'm stuck!"

The bottom of the engine scraped the burm and crushed the plug for the sidestand killswitch cable. Switching out of neutral immediately kills the engine. This is high on the list of why a Multistrada makes a difficult adventure bike - this exact same thing happened crossing a tree on Usal Road about a year ago. The solution was the same - I cut the plug off and spliced the wires together permanently. This is something that should probably never be fixed.

Finally, crossing over the median:

Unfortunately I didn't get pictures of the stupidly steep, narrow single-track up the side of that overpass where I nearly pitched my KTM over. Adventure!

Coatzacoalcos is nothing special, which is somewhat surprising because it's in a good location. I believe the city is most famous for shipping, a huge petrochemical complex, and birthing Salma Hayek. It has long, long beaches along the coast but they're kinda grungy, and there are quite a few clubs and bars but almost no hotels. It's certainly not a tourist destination for extranjeros.
San Francisco to Panama and back... eventually?
How I Nearly Killed My Friends In Baja

stickfigure screwed with this post 06-30-2008 at 12:41 PM
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