Directions (Sorry, no pics)
It was a pretty simple exercise. I've removed the canisters on my R1200C, R1150RT and my girlfriend's F650ST before so I used those examples as a template.
Remove the countershaft sprocket cover (three torx screws), the two black triangular shaped covers (held on by one torx screw) on each side of the motorcycle and unbolt the rectifier (two screws) and it's mounting plate (two screws) from the frame.
Track all of the hoses to find out where they lead. There are four hoses:
- Fuel Tank vent hose (this hose is actually two hoses; a short one, a long one and a check valve between them). The long hose travels under the seat to the rear of the motorcycle on the right hand side, makes a u-turn before you come to the check valve (zip tied to the rear sub-frame), then the short hose to the fuel tank.
- Carbon Canister drain hose
- A hose from the differential pressure switch to the canister
- A hose from a bung between the throttle body supply to the differential pressure switch
On the left side of the motorcycle (as viewed when sitting on the motorcycle) directly behind the cover that you removed earlier will be the differential pressure switch. Just remove the hoses and put plug caps over the open ports on the switch. Replace the cover.
On the right side of the motorcycle, clip the zip ties and unplug any remaining hoses on top of the canister. I removed miy canister from the motorcycle through the space where the countershaft sprocket cover was removed. It's a little tight but I was still able to remove it via this space.
At this point, you should still have one hose coming from the rear of the motorcycle (the fuel tank vent) and one hose coming from a point in the center of the motorycle behind the cylinder heads. The fuel tank vent hose is not long enough to drain to the ground so you will need to replace this hose after the check valve with sufficient length to drain to the ground. (Approximately 4 feet of hose will be necessary to route to the same point as the original drain point.) The other hose coming from the throttle bodies will need to be removed and either the bung should be capped or used for the ScottOiler (if you're going that route).
Zip tie any loose hoses, replace the rectifer mounting plate and rectifier, and replace the remaining two covers.