What a fabulous trip. I just finished reading the thread (so far); you had me very worried for you when I read about the lost bag. What an incredible story about how it was found and returned.
I've read a few other RR's about folks traveling through Iran (and Turkey as well, for that matter) who have been helped through really tough problems by generous strangers. I sure wish the news media would report on this stuff once in awhile instead of their incessant focus on violence and destruction. The world is full of nice people and good experiences.
Anyhow, I'm really enjoying your trip report, all the pictures, and your great approach to it all. Thanks a bunch!