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Old 01-31-2009, 09:37 AM   #35
XRider
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Joined: Oct 2006
Location: Los Gatos, CA
Oddometer: 1,242
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZenMoto
I'm not sure what you mean by a floating ground. The rectifier is grounded to the frame and I've done a continuity check to ensure it was a good ground. Are you saying that the ground isn't supposed to be grounded?

...I'm just not sure I'm following.

Thanks,
D
ZenMoto, I'll bet that if you connect a volt meter (set to measure AC volts) across the 2 wires that connect to your headlight bulb the meter will read 6 volts or less. If you have gotten one of my schematic packs check out the one for connecting lights to a big stator. I know everyone keeps telling you that you have to float the AC ground but nobody has seen fit to tell you what that means so here it is. I won't blather on about the theory I'll just blather on about what you need to do. The two wires from your stator that will be the AC lighting circuit should have one of the AC regulator wires connected to each one. None of the AC stator wires or the reg. wires should be connected to the frame. Also, most lights will have the negative side of the bulb grounded to the housing and therefore the mounting bolts. You will need to isolate the light from the frame or insolate the bulb so it's no longer connected to ground. Basicly your AC circuit needs to be a closed loop, and only the DC system can use the frame as a ground. It's a pain in the ass but that's the deal. BTW if you want you can add a second regulator/rectifier for a pure DC system and then you won't need to sweat the ground isolation. If you do this you could also run two batteries but you don't have to. Hope this helps.
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