A few members asked for a clutch repalcement How-To, so I'd better write-up this up while it's still reasonably fresh. I won't cover the basics (like first drain your oil!), but I will highlight a few of the tricks and lessons learned along the way. The good news is that this is a fairly straight-forward procedure--anyone that knows their way around a wrench shouldn't have any problems (if I can do it, you can do it!).
- First and foremost, if you don't have one already, get a copy of the service manual (or download from the first page of this thread).
- You will need to drain the oil and coolant, so be sure to have new fluids on hand (and I don't just mean Coors!).
- Next disconnect the rear brake pedal and remove the right foot peg (just unbolts, kinda unique) to gain access to all of the bolts on the right crankcase cover.
- Disconnect the clutch cable from the case and remove the oil line banjo bolt on the cover. NOTE-don't worry about aligning the oil bolt and oil line holes on the reinstall--it's not necessary.
- Remove the right crankcase cover bolts. The bolts are different lengths, so use a magnetic tray or some other means of keeping them in the proper order.
- Don't worry about the cover falling on your toes, 'cause it's gonna be cemented to the crankcase with 20 years of industrial strength super glue (i.e., the old gasket)! I used a thin scrap of wood as a "drift" to tap the cover loose from the other side of the bike. This is possible because there is a slight lip where the cranhkcase cover mates to the crankcase. If you try this, be sure that the oil line is safely out of the way (unless you really want to be a ValveCrusher!)
- Behold the majesty of the clutch basket! Remove the four bolts securing the clutch lifter plate and remove along with the springs. You may need to hold the plate with channel locks/vice grips/spanner wrench (whatever) to keep the basket from spinning while you do so.
- Don't force the castle (/lock) nut!! Unstake it first by prying away the metal collar of the nut from the recess in the central spindle bolt. In order to remove the nut you'll either need to purchase the special Honda clutch center holder and lock nut tools or fabricate some of your own. See my homemade solutions below. Remember...you don't want to bust a nut!
- Now the inner and outer basket should slide apart allowing access to the old friction and steel plates. If you plan to replace the set, the EBC DR-51 clutch set includes the friction plate, steel plates, and heavy duty springs. Much cheaper than OEM, but this set is no longer made and getting harder to find. Bike Bandit had 'em.
- Probably the most important part of the operation is removing all traces of the old gasket from both the cover and the case prior to installing the new one. You may want to try commercial gasket remover. I just used the DULL side of a razor blade, my fingernail, and paint thinner. Stuff a rag into the case to prevent fossilzed gasket remnants from falling in. NOTE- This was by far the most time-consuming part of the job. You may want to have a Coors or 2 handy for this part!
- If you're replacing the plates be sure to soak the new friction plates in oil before installing. The 6 friction and 5 steel plates alternate (F-S-F-S-F-S-F-S-F-S-F)--just be sure to begin and end with friction.
- Slap it all back together (you'll need your special tools to hold the clutch basket while you tighten the clutch bolts and lock nut)
- Remove and clean the oils screen while you're in there!
- Install a new gasket (trust me, you ain't reusing the old one), bolt it up, add fluids (Oil, coolant, Coors) and you're ready to ride. Smooootthhh....
Hope this helps. IB...Outta Here.