Wed, Feb 4
I didn't have any breakfast food, so it was off for Loreto. Just a short ride planned today, try to make it near Mulegé and look for another camp site. Having never been to Baja before, everything is new, but somewhat familiar in an Arizona sort of way.
Trail leading away from campsite:
After breakfast the day started warming up.
My guide book mentioned a petroglyph area near Playa El Burro and I asked about it here to see if they couldn't help me with directions:
The gal at the counter gave me a funny look and uttered what I took to be the Spanish equivalent of "geez, another one". Her husband overheard my question, and said "look, we don't give that information". Allrighty, then. I didn't really press it, just that my book mentioned the site and I didn't mean to be bothering them. I think he liked hearing that because then he went on to explain that everyday, scores of people ask him where the petroglyph entry is, but they never buy anything from him. Only the Mexicans buy stuff he says. All the foreigners want is to know where to find the stones. I joke that he should put up a huge sign saying "Petroglyph Info; Ask Here! 10 Pesos" and he really likes that idea. He asks the name of my guidebook (Moon, Baja) and pulls out his laptop and immediately starts an email of protest that he says he's going to send them and tell them to quit mentioning the site, or give better directions. Then he continues by pointing out the yellow sign which "clearly" shows where to go. I pull out 10 pesos and tell him "Muchísimas gracias, quiesiera ser tu primer cliente!" And that really got him and his wife laughing.
Anyway, if you go looking for the rock art, don't inquire here:
Or at least buy something first or offer 10 pesos! Or you could just look for this yellow sign about 100 meters NE of this minisuper.
The petroglyphs were interesting, but not spectacular either. Just start walking towards the desert at the sign and you'll start seeing the art...
Another few kilometers and I found the entrance for Playa Escondida. About a kilimoter off the main road along a hilly gravel / rock road. Just a few palapas here and only a handful of campers. I choose the most rustic one--actually it was the only one left of about 6 or 7. Kind of steep at 70 pesos.
A fisherman preparing Trigger fish...
I'm next to two Americans to my right and a Canadian couple to my left. They both offer me food, some fruit, they cook up some fish and we have a great time talking the evening away.
97 miles; 3 hours riding.