You're a funny guy Christian The bomb part of the powerbomb header is VERY close to the oil line.....if you don't make sure and position the exhaust well before you tighten things up it could possibly touch it. I positioned the header carefully, so there's a safe gap now....but thats definately something you need to watch out for And as far as performance, in the order of difference made...honestly, changing from the molasses thick 20-50 conventional to the 10-40 full syn made the most difference in the colder weather, I'm sure it would have been less in the summer heat, the 14 tooth front sprocket made the next biggest difference, and the header and cut airbox made the least of those 3. The header and cut airbox made a noticeable diff, but because I was still running the thick azz 20-50 on a cold day for the test ride, the diff wasn't all that big. I think part of the difference the 10-40 oil made was also the header and cut airbox working better with the much freer flowing oil. Since it wasn't a clear cut test , I honestly can't say how much a header will add to performance for you, all I can say is the combination of things made a huge difference.....so I'm glad I did them all I'm hoping the FCR makes it even better I honestly do think the header would make enough diff with your other mods to make you happy tho, in looks, durability, and performance.....but if it costs you twice what we pay in the U.S. I don't think it would be worth it.
Those twin pipes look sweet Christian.....why haven't you ran them sooner instead of fighting the steel stockers? And are you saying you lost some low end.....or top end with them? Were you running the same muffler with stock (now holed) header? They look awesome, open up that muffler if you haven't already and run those....no need to spend more money on yet another set of headers The bike looks awesome
All I can say is I can't believe some of the prices you guys have to pay...if I had to pay that much for my mods I wouldn't have any :eek1
thanks}}Im going to keep the twin headers I had restored the muffler is oem, baffle removed...the stuff and rust that blurped out the first few minutes was amazing...its been sitting for 2 years I was saving up for a dual header muffler...I restored those pipes a year ago almost...perfect and rewelded at the flanges on the OUTSIDE s they are nice and smooth inside... they flow great at wot, hence the big ass 165 main the stock carb came with....however lean on the pilot and I definetly need to tune the flatslide for it... muffler is temporary it has some nice holes in it...but I painted it nicely and it will last oh what 2 months? enough for me to scrounge the nets for a dual header exhaust and sell my fmf at least thats the plan PS. yes I love he hell out of my restored stainless headers...you see the pic of the hole I had in the xrl header?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????' wtf times a million
There must be a shop somewhere around where you could cheaply have a ´2 into 1´ collector made, to mate your dual headers and your single pipe Powercore isn´t there? I thought Latin America was known for it´s ghetto engineering ...
I just dont have the time anymore...I work 4 days at the restaurant I sleep a bit monday then Im running around like crazy with baby stuff, banks, money errands, fixing this or that, the bike, the truck(getting a complete head rebuild as we speak) blah blah blah It used to be where I could make sw motech guards for other guys bikes, make stainless skidplates, have bar risers made, make awesome baffle removers and stainless tips for klr guys to get rid of the tweet, make stainless footpegs, I JUST DONT HAVE THE TIME ANYMORE! My dream has always been to mate the FMF to my stainless headers... thanks for the motivation...btw...yes we are known for ghetto engineering...sometimes very good
damn guys dint mean to bum any of you guys out hey I need some REAL help here I found out my mitusbish montero 2.6l gas 4 cylinder had head corrosion...some of the water passages needed welding,but its not cracked! so my question is this Im not familiar with this engine however it is a very simple durable design same as dodge raider for you guys in the us. it is an inline single overhead cam design my question is the rocker arms and design look the same as my xr600, in other words the lifters are adjusteable with the locknut and screw design however Im getting conflicting opinions on how to adjust after a complete head rebuilt including valve seats, GUIDES etc... its obvious if they have adjuster that they need to be adjusted but how does this compare to adjusting our valves? I also need to retorque the head after a few miles to prevent head warpage and another blown gasket. Im going to replace all head bolts with new 12.9 grade ones so I dont have this issue as the previous owner decided it was a great idea to mix and match grade steel and hex and allen bolts too! PLEASE any input is greatly appreciated christian
do you do all intake and then all exhaust or do you go by piston individually ? thanks so much bud christian p.s. non related do you have experience jetting for dual headers on the xr6? I went back to stock on my 88...Im guessing I need to jet down on the pilot and up on the main maybe... still using the flatslide thanks!
You adjust one cylinder at a time. Which ever is at TDC from where you start. Head torque. I beleive you start at the middle and work towards the ends of the head.
thanks man Im having a hard as hell time finding the torque specs for a dodge raider or montero head bolts the idiots that put the allens used 100ftlbs and then the other ones where at 60 or so, no wonder I blew a gasket... so in then out check. anybody with some INTERNET voodoo wanna help me find the torque specs please? Im usually pretty good at this but man! brain farting big time... Im looking for dodge raider, mitsubishi montero generation 1 head bolt torque specs thanks again boss
You adjust all the valves on a given cylinder when it's at TDC. It will be easy to see when the rockers are on the cam's base circle since it's an OHC engine. There is another technique where you adjust only the valves that are completely closed so the engine only had to be turned over two revolutions instead of eight. Which valves get adjusted when depends on the firing order. I can't verify that these numbers are correct, but it's something I found real quick looking for Montero 2.6L torque specs. http://www.4x4wire.com/forums/showflat.php?Number=929385
Hey XR People, have been searching for a second hand/spare head for a big fin & porting project, easy question for some here... will a 1985 model head (duel carbs back then?) fit onto my 1992 barrel and engine? Cheers RooSt
I just entered what you have and hit enter and I get : mitsubishi montero generation 1 head bolt torque specs http://www.automotix.net/autorepair/mitsubishi-montero-engine_repair_guide-2414.html
thanks HT real good stuff,. indeed I have been on that site before but my computer was just being more dumb than even myself...I couldnt find it I found out after posting this previous question that the REVISED torque is 80ftlbs...hot or cold...as blown head gaskets were an issue with the lesser torque spec you guys are reall good and thanks deejay a but late to order a manual but I will in the futire I need the truck tomorrow to go the restaurant jejejeje
apparently the ALLENS ARE STOCK! jajajajajaja either way the po screwed me Im getting new ones as a set $70 for 10 of them whatever cant risk having my truck fail me to go to the mountains geeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeze
well got the bolts, they were hex, whatever,m they are new. see what happens tomorrow now for an xr related question... has anybody ever bought gasket donuts? you know the copper ones for the exhaust ports? BUT at an autoshop or over the counter somewhere? My left port is leaking...I jiggled and git the right one to seal again, but not the left port I got 3 pinhole leaks in the muffler but most important at the port... also Im down on power bigtime which is a bummer...so I got to rejet yet again and see if maybe I can get some power back Im really at a loss as to what jetting these headers will need with the MIKUNI flatslide as well its just a different beast all together... Im guessing at a minumum I need to fatten up the needle and main jet...I can start and restar pretty damn well and idle is smooth as butter... so does this sound good to you guys?
