Hello everyone! I just bought a 2000 BMW R1100R last night from a good friend of mine with 64K miles. The engine purrs, but there is an intermittent clanking sound at idle. However, when I cycled the clutch lever, the sound went away. I bought the bike knowing that it needed a new clutch. However, after doing some research, I read somewhere that a clanking sound could be from the driveline or something connected to it, IIRC, but I didn't bookmark the page and can't find it. I haven't ripped the bike apart yet, but I would like some opinions of what else could be going on. I will do some more testing to see what happens when I put it in gear, but I'll need a new battery first. Thoughts? Thanks!
Just ride it. Don't worry about that kind of sounds. And why to change the clutch. If it's is working, don't change it. Pekka :eek1:eek1:eek1
could be u need to upgrade left side cam chain tensioner from www.beemerboneyard. about $80. that stopped my clanking noise. other than that, drop the slave cylinder and inspect for gunk and flush several times.
The noise went away when I cycled the clutch. The engine purrs, so I'm not quite sure if it could be the cam tensioner as you described. Thanks for input though!
I'm fairly new to GS's (but used to own a R1100S) I heard the same noise on a 2004 R1150GS I went to see a week or so ago, just like yours it went away with the clutch pulled. I did some digging and it could be related to a failing tranny input shaft bearing, there is a guy on here who posted a video on youtube with the rattle (although his was really bad) and when he tore down the tranny he found the bad bearing.
I just bought a 96 R1100R. I have the same sound. I just did a transmission oil change, there were plenty of shavings at the drain magnet. Of course, I have no idea how long it's been since the PO did a change. TheDarkness, please update this thread if you tear down the transmission. For now I'm going to keep an eye out for a replacement unit.
I put a new battery in and fired her up. The sound is more like a dull screetching sound than a clacking sound. I had it up on the center stand and put it in gear. The rear tire would barely move, if at all. So, clearly the clutch is toast. There was another sound, but only while in gear, so I would suspect a failed input shaft bearing.
Congrats on the new bike.. I've got the exact same one with 88k miles, clutch disc was done at 60k, and the whole pack and disc had to be done at 88k. Two things to start with. Check the the free play in the clutch cable should be 6 or 7mm, don't remember right now. If the clutch cable isn't properly adjusted you may not be getting full clutch engagement. See the following thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=847183 Pull the starter and take a look at the clutch, you can get an idea of how much material is left, if the output seal on the engine is leaking, etc. If the bike is changing sounds when you're engaging and disengaging the clutch in neutral I'd pickup a mechanics stethescope and start poking around but it does me the think of a couple of things... 1. Clutch push rod is not fully seated against the diaphram spring in the bell housing (stretch / improperly adjusted cable / broken/worn tip?) rod is now rattling around in the top of the transmission. There should be a piece of felt in there to dampen this. 2. Since the friction disk is no longer engaged there is no motion being being transferred into the transmission there may be something up with the transmission, don't know haven't read enough on that. I think mine (will have to check) since I don't have the throttle cables properly adjusted has a tapping noise that goes away from the right throttle body when the clutch is pulled in. Might be imagining that though. 3. With the bike in neutral, the bike on the center stand, and as long as the rear brake isn't stuck the tire should spin ever so slowly. Mine does this, and my understanding is that the even though the bike isn't in gear there is still the input shaft spinning in the oil in the transmission and the inertia / movement of that will cause the rear wheel to spin when it has no load. not noticeable when the rear wheel is down on the ground. The screeching doesn't sound good, maybe your splines are ripped? Regarding drain/fill of the transmission: Don't pull the drain plug until you pull the fill plug first. If you can't refill it then you're in trouble. Also pick up some new crush washers when you do it. Don't ask what kind of oil to put in it without using the search button first. Don't start another oil thread. Don't overfill it as you may blow out a seal. You can also have the oil sent off for an oil analysis, there's many opinions regarding color in terms of how big a deal it is, whether to ride on it or not. If it's got a irridescent gold sheen that ususally means the shift forks are wearing. If you've got another friend or someone on here in the area who's close and got an oilhead that can give it a listen to tell you what seems 'normal' or not. Not digging on your friend, but something may sound normal to him since it's been doing it since the beginning / built up over time. Not sure how much you've read on here / been a lurker but here's a search suggestion. I do my searches in google with starting with: site:advrider.com If you do decide to split the bike plan on replacing the fuel lines if they haven't been done already. Mine were original as far as I knew and they were brittle on the inside.
+1 to the cam tensioner, it cured my cold start rattles. Mine didn't rattle though once it got pressure though. No slave cyclinder on the R1100R, it's a regular cable clutch. I think the R1100S has a hydraulic clutch though.
