Based on the wheel I have before I disassembled it, the rim was offset in the hub. I guess it depends on how your looking at the hub, i.e. rim centered between the wheel spacers or rim centered between the spoke holes in the hub, etc.... The stock DRZ400S spokes come in two lengths (a few mm's difference). Aftermarket spokes usually are one length.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> <o></o> If someone (preferably S model) could take a measurement from the edge of the rear rim to a fixed point, like the swingarm or brake rotor or sprocket. As long as you specify where you measured, I can work with that. Sucks its not in the service manual.
1. Useless except for the most basic items. 2. The best one comes from your Suzuki shop and is $65. All others pale in comparison. 3.?, 4. No you should not. You only know it has the 3X3 so far. It is really worth it to actually open up the carb and find out. You never said if an E or S model. CV carb or pumper? You need to know Keintech and JD Jetting. 5. That is your idle adjustment. 6. Behind the headlight there is a resitor/flasher assembly . It is plug and play. You have LED light with a standard res/flasher and need one for LEDs. They are available from Wheeling Cycle Supply and many other sources.
Depends on the wheel, width, hub type etc. if an SM rim is not offset properly it will rub assuming you are running wide rubber. Mine is offset to fit the 150
I'm looking for stock 2.15 rear rim and stock hub offset, S model. I don't need to offset for chain rub.
I have a couple sets of S wheels. I can go lay a steel rule across the sprocket and measure down to the edge of the rim. Will that tell you what you need?
+1 A few years ago I installed the 12 O'clock Labs edge tail light upgrade and noticed that their signals in the tail light ran out of sync. I emailed them and they sent me a set of those (pre-production model). To get the lights in sync they are ON all the time and turn off with the flash signal. Simple yet effective. They really do increase visibility on the DRZ and I highly recommend them. The guys at 12 O'Clock are awesome to deal with
OK, I went out and measured my S. One set of wheels is on the bike and one set is not. On the left side of the swingarm it measures 2.5 inches from the inside of the swingarm to the edge of the rim. My other set of wheels measured 2.350 inches from the outside surface of the sprocket to the edge of the rim. Hope this helps.
Thanks a lot If I could ask one more huge favor, if you could also measure from the rotor side on both sets of wheels.
On the right side it measures 2.25" from the inside of the swingarm to the edge of the rim. The other set measures 1.35" from the outer surface of the rotor to the edge of the rim. Disclaimer: The wheel that is not on the bike may or may not be true. I never checked it. The wheel on the bike is true.
Yep, I want all the help I can get in sand (plus fully loaded). The Pirelli MT21 140/80 seems like an option?
Have u tried Kenda Trakmaster 760 II? It's almost a street legat paddle tire. They have them in 120/100-18.
Thanks Numbers, useful feedback Eddy, that Kenda looks nice. I need have a fairly long trip planned, so (perhaps wrongly) I'm figuring the less aggressive MT will last a few more miles. Apologies everyone for talking tyres Cheers Rob
Nothing generally goes wrong with the seat, so you should be able to just replace the needle and o-ring. Regards, Derek
So, a friend brought me a dr-z he bought cheap with a blown engine.. I open up and I find this: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/35291439@N07/8514574969/" title="IMG_4344 by okipouros, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8229/8514574969_9591ef8c06.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_4344"></a> Also the cams and head had signs of severe lack of lubrication, so then i found this: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/35291439@N07/8515678390/" title="IMG_4337 by okipouros, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8511/8515678390_983577a3e7.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_4337"></a> And I noticed the following issues: - Its plastic and cooked in oil - Its drafted (see picture below) due to injection molded manufacturing process, so the the load is not shared equally - Being plastic, it can have manufacturing faults such as material impurities, bad process which can cause a number of problems that lead to an early failure <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/35291439@N07/8514565295/" title="IMG_4340 by okipouros, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8370/8514565295_10e0fcee9e.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_4340"></a> So I got one made from steel, which will last forever. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/35291439@N07/8514559611/" title="idle gear by okipouros, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8523/8514559611_2ea8fddc8b.jpg" width="500" height="297" alt="idle gear"></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/35291439@N07/8514568095/" title="IMG_4341 by okipouros, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8515/8514568095_c18cc658c8.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="IMG_4341"></a> Machined in molybdenium steel alloy used for gears by a specialist shop that only does gears Tried it, and it feels like there is much less friction compared to the plastic one, and that it meshes smoother Also thinking of adding 5 holes to ligthen it up, machine shop told me its $6 extra, and can be done if needed, personally, I dont think it will make a difference, cause there are much heavier things in there, with even larger moment of inertia to lighten up http://www.flickr.com/photos/35291439@N07/8515710068/in/photostream/ If people are interested I can get some made, but the bigger the order the lower the cost, so let me know if you are interested Cost is estimated at 42/£37/$55 +p&p (about $5 extra)
just did a 1600 km trip over various surfaces on a rear Kenda 760 11 . I liked it. about 1/2 worn out, but there was a few hours of high speed sealed roads included in the trip.
