How do you like having the cross bar pad installed? I took mine off because it blocked access to the ignition key.
Of course if he held the axle with a big hex key or such he woul;dn't need to remember to loosen the pinch bolt.
I guess thats a fair question from someone who lives in a year round warm place like Fl. Sure been cold here in Houston. Wet too! I've learned that it's best to not wait for your hands to get cold to switch on the grip heaters. Start out with them on.
+2! I've got two on the way myself. I bought two pairs of grip heaters when they were on sale. I think I'm just going to do away with the flasher i used to replace the resistor and do away with the switch and just use the control knob on the PWM dimmer. I'll probably use some heavy duty velcro(or similar) and attach it to the front of the speedo. Then I can slide a gloved finger over the knob to turn it. It looks like the knob sticks out "just" far enough and has a knurled edge to accomplish this. I will probably "mark" the knob in a couple different spots for average settings. Then after it's been on for a bit I can dial in the most comfortable temp. Thanks again for the link to the dimmer!
Yep... the turn signal flasher on the low side of my grip warmers is a ghetto PWM device It just has one setting.... 50%
Tis. I'm back in town, waiting for my motor. I should be running by the end of Feb. I hope theres still snow somewhere.
NIce picture Jeremy. Population 298 as of 2010, wow, small town. Ghost town compared to what it once was. Army depot built in 42 to house civilian workers at the amunitions depot. Quite different than Tijuana for sure.
I can easily reach the ignition key with a gloved hand. However, I still might remove the bar pad; the cockpit is cramped enough as it is. Spud
You're welcome. Have your received your LED dimmers? I was pleasantly surprised by the robustness and quality of this inexpensive PWM device. You can definitely turn the knob with a gloved finger, but I don't think you could completely turn this switch on and off for many cycles before it would fail. Fortunately, you can effectively reduce the current draw to virtually nothing by turning the knob all the way down, without actually clicking it off. However, for a variety of reasons, I would still recommend keeping the on/off switch. You can easily wire this LED dimmer in series with the stock switch. Just replace the 2 ohm resistor with the PWM device, and route the ground wires from both grip heaters back to the device. Then ground the PWM device to the frame. Spud
I love riding northern Nevada/NorCal, especially the Sierra's, but after 20+ years of brutally cold long winters, I think its time to move somewhere warmer My wife says I'll miss the riding, and she's right, but I'll find new riding, and I won't miss the cold one bit Hello Arizona
This is ONE of the reasons Spud rider is our very own treasure in the XRL community. A question that was probably a sarcastic comment on why anyone would live in the chilly north is answered with complete sincerity. Hey Spud, please don't change
Nice intro, fellow audio guy. While a PWM controller avoids wasting most of the heat that a series resistor or linear regulator would, it still burns some. The turn-on and turn-off are not instant so during the switching time there is E-I product. When on, there is switch resistance. There is also control circuitry power requirements. The ratio of the power input to the power output to the load is termed the efficiency (times 100 for percent). The controllers exemplified are likely in the 80 to 90 percent efficiency range. A real advantage of PWM controller would be to regulate the output voltage, in such a way as the control knob telling the circuitry what voltage to make the output - instead of the shortcut where the knob controls the duty cycle. In voltage regulator mode, the pulse width is varied by the controller to keep the output voltage constant regardless of changes of input voltage (within the compliance range). That way the heated gear puts out a constant heat commensurate with the knob setting, instead of varying with the charging system voltage. Cheers!
I'm in the process of installing a powerbomb on my bike, once I got the stock header off, I was shocked at how smooth and unobtrusive the header welds were. I haven't even cleaned them off yet, but just looking at how they came off the bike, they're almost as smooth as the FMF welds....very well done. Unless the po already ground them down, which it doesn't look like so far, there's really no reason to grind them imo, at least from looking at my stockers. In fact there really isn't much TO grind down. Maybe not all stockers got the same weld treatment? Mines an 04. I will clean them up tho to be sure they actually haven't been ground down.
I have tested this PWM device on my 12-volt power source. I'm pleased to report this LED dimmer smoothly regulates the power from zero to 100 percent output. I am also pleasantly surprised with the robustness and quality of this inexpensive, LED dimmer. I will wait for warmer weather before I modify my wiring with this PWM device. However, since this LED dimmer is so small and lightweight, I am becoming tempted to attach it with velcro to the inside of the upper, left side of my headlight shroud; then I could easily fine tune the "low" heat setting any time I pleased. Spud
Which welds are you referring to? Are they inside the inlet of the pipes, or the outlet? Just curious because I've heard that some need to be ground down, but was never sure which part of the pipe...
