I want to replace my 2 oil cooler lines (rubber) on my R 100RS, mainly because the connections are rusted, corroded, especially at the oil filter cover. Does anyone know a place that makes em in flexi stainless steel to fit/custom, or a source that sells them pre made in sizes that fit metric/BMW connections? I guess I could try making myself but I think there's a crimper I don't have for that job, etc. Any advice welcome. __________________
at work and home, i've had better luck with the blue or purple (which is for small fasteners). we only use the red on things that absolutely, positively should never come apart. the purple loctite does work well on larger fasteners if they are cleaned and torqued properly, plus you can break them free when you have to.
I have a tip, to be used in the event you purchase a bike with an unknown history (lets for arguments sake just say a BMW R65 mono). 1) Put bike in neutral on center stand. 2) Loosen rubber gatier between gearbox and drive shaft. Recommend removing only the forward clamp that secures the gaiter. 3) Gently pry back gaiter. 4) Count the number of bolts used to secure the drive shaft flange to the gear box. You can slowly rotate the drive shaft by rotating the rear wheel with your free hand, to aid in the counting procedure. The correct number of bolts is 4 (four). If you get to eight, you probably have the correct number of bolts, but have gone around twice. Signs that you should have conducted the drive shaft bolt counting procedure (DSBCP) sooner: 1) banging noises 2) rattling noises 3) people staring at you and pointing as you ride past 4) an overwhelming feeling of dread 5) removing the rubber gaiter between gearbox and drive shaft and having two stripped bolts fall onto the exhaust collector box, one bolt still half in and holding onto the drive shaft flange for dear life, one bolt MIA (never reinstalled by PO). N.B. Signs 1, 2, 3, and 4 may relate to issues not related to the need to conduct the DSBCP. The above DSBCP is not listed in the Haynes repair manual, however I suggest it is a 'one spanner' task for anyone who has watched five or more episodes of Sesame Street. The DSBCP is recommended to anyone who hasn't actually seen the four bolts with their own eyes and is just assuming no PO could be that profoundly stupid.
Point 5 sounds like a lesson learned in the school of hard knocks ... bugger, eh? Hopefully the jungfrau didn't set you back too many beer tokens. John
Zodiac, if you buy one of those H-pipes let us know how your bike runs. I'd be interested if you have any power loss.
will do, but it might be awhile - i ordered it from Motobins in UK, never ordered from them before but they never responded to my emails re the order - not expecting it to be here all that quick is all but maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised. Being there's going to be 2 cross pipes, I'm hoping it's not a big change from the collector box.
I've had good luck with their service. When I overhauled my transmission, the parts were here in a week and a half all the way from England.
One of the more astonishing things about Moto-Bins is the parts arrive faster than if you had ordered them from the states. This used to be the case, it's been years since I ordered from them.
I did get that, but emailed them a question and never got a repsonse - (regarding my order) - no worries, sure it'll be here soon.
Is it possible for a bearing to let go and drop a couple of rollers (not balls) into the sump (noticed during first oil change)? I somehow repressed this unhappy memory and have been riding the R65 (mono) about for the last few months. Don't really want to fire the old girl up again until it's figured out. It couldn't be as silly as the PO using the sump as a parts tray and then refitting it with bits still in there. It's not like there was a torque wrench in there too.
The only roller bearings in the motor are the needle rollers on the valve rockers, so it isnt a big job to check if everything is OK there.
Thank you Beemerboff, Just found something Andy Gadget (post #14) wrote about it here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=673944 Are you thinking along the same lines?
There is a good bit of info on Anton Largiader's site: http://www.largiader.com/tech/rockers/ It may be that the damage is from the rocker blocks being too loose but I think it happens to even well spaced rockers after the miles and heat take their toll. You can sometimes get good deals on a set on ebay but most of them are being sold by breakers and are over priced. Well, maybe it's not over priced but they are expensive. I want cheap and have bought sets for less than $50. If the rest of the system is good then replacing the bearings is a good, but expensive, option. Sorry it is a proprietary bearing and only available at your friendly dealer.
Thanks Disston, Looks like Moto-bins have the rocker arm needle bearings for 8.50 pounds each. The last paragraph on Anton's site there is interesting too (not relevant to my mono application, but) - "Every style can be easily upgraded one level" - /5 to 74-75, /6 to 76-84, 76-84 to 85 on.
Yes. I am using /7 rockers, I think they are, on my /6. Works. Thank you Anton. BTW he is also on this site so you will hear his stuff first hand. There are a number of full time mechanics here and Anton is one of those. He has a BMW repair shop.
Installed them today, first thing is that there's virtually no difference in sound while running, the H pipe is about as quiet as the collector box. Second is I notice no difference in power, feels identical but haven't been at top highway speeds yet. Of course the bike lost what feels like 20lbs, and my collector box was pretty rusty/minor holes etc - I was able to finally see the backside and bottom of my transmission, and clean the area. Much sleeker look. One thing I noticed is that all the stock BMW gaskets I bought really didn't fit from the years of cooked on old gaskets. I had to cut the 2 rears down to slip them in the cans. The fronts (soft gaskets) didn't fit at all, so I used a bit of red gasket sealant. So far no backfires. I'm sold on Moto-bins, they're quick.