That is what I did to mine and it works well. I have a xrs only chain guide too(I use it with my dirt set) and it does not fit at all with a supermoto rim. The modified stocker works better.
Need a bit of help. I started working on this over a month ago but I had to leave the country. I replaced my clutch center after one of the bolts broke out and hit the cover. I finally got around to putting it all back in today, I didn't try to crank it. The clutch isn't working at all. I put it in neutral and it rolls fine, I kick it in gear and hold the clutch and nothing. The only thing I know of I did wrong was when I put the clutch push rod in, the bike wasn't in neutral. Is this most likely my problem? If I pull the cover off and the pressure plate, and move that rod around do you think it'll pop down somewhere where it should be and work? If not, I have no idea what's going on.
I would open it back up and check to see if you put everything in right. If you did then check the adjustment.
When in gear and you pull in the clutch lever, you say "nothing". What do you mean exactly? Does the rear wheel not spin? The clutch rod shouldn't be affected by the transmission gear position when you install it. It just transfers the action through the motor to the clutch pack. I'm guessing that your clutch plates are sticking a bit since it's sat for some time. With cold oil, there is quite a bit of viscosity to overcome to get the friction and drive plates to "let loose". Try putting the bike in a taller gear, pull in the clutch and then try to spin the rear wheel again. Or, put the bike on the ground (again in a taller gear), pull in the clutch AND decompression levers, and slowly rotate the kickstarter through it's range. That should break the friction and drive plates.
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Hey! Sorry to bug you, but I have a problem that's driving me crazy! I overhauled the top end of my piggy(piston rings, valves, seats, springs, camshaft bearings...you get the idea). I dismantled the carb, cleaned it, set the level, needle setting(the needle is new)...etc. 1) the bike starts very hard 2) when it starts, the idle goes wild(from normal to 3000 revs) 3) very litle response from the air screw(new as well) 4) when I rev it, it dies after releasing the throtle I suspect an air leak due to worn carb body and throtle valve(the only thing I didn't check). The intake boot is new. I had this problem before the top end work, but it intensified after. More vacum/compression=more air leaking => leaner mixture?? I found crf 450 carburetors(FCR 41) on ebay. I'm thinking about buying one. What say you? Thank you, Alex
Hanging idle is usally too tight of cables or the valves are too tight. When the cables are too tight the work against each other to hold the slide up for a period of time, when it does come down the other adjustments may be off not letting it idle. Check the freeplay at the grip and make sure it will rotate back and forth a little bit (ensuring they aren't too tight) To check for a cable prob forcebly close the throttle after a rev so the push cable pulls the slide down, if the revs drops down immediately then it's a cable issue. If the valves are too tight it makes all kinds of wierd running cond including hanging idle and failure to idle. I've seen some pretty worn carbs that had no adverse effect on the running, I'm sure that could happen esp since we can't really see how bad the carb is but it'd be very unusual. It's not uncommon for the valves to settle in the head a good bit right after a topend job, that would cause them to tighten up relatively quickly. Tight valves = hard starting also. Im thinking that's the issue.
The cable is new and oiled, freeplay is fine, valve clearence is in specs, timing is fine. I started the bike with a makeshift gas tank, without the cable. The bike revs itself up, dosen't respond to air screw movement. It's driving me crazy. Update: Went to the garage, took off the carb. -the throtle valve rotates around it's center(left-right) and the lower gap changes in size -the valve has a bit of play and can rattle back and forth -the levers that operate the throtle valve are worn I will take the carb apart and check the extent of the wear.
ACHILE - -the throtle valve rotates around it's center(left-right) and the lower gap changes in size This make me wonder if the slide has not been placed correctly on its alignment pin. If in the correct position you should not be able to rotate the slide. This will effectively hold it open causing it to rev like mad and not respond to air screw. Remove the top cover and rotate the slide till it finds the alignment pin. If set correctly the slides cutaway will be on the intake (air filter side) JM-2008
There has been obvious concern with Edlebrock not providing replacement parts for their pumper carburetor. One difficult part to source is the cup on the accelerator pump, especially if the bike sits for length of time with ethanol fuel left in it. I don't have a source yet for an exact part, but I have found out that it is a 1/2" diameter cup. Similar to what is found here: http://quadrajetparts.com/rochester...buretor-accelerator-pump-assembly-p-1056.html Or here: http://www.mikescarburetor.com/Holley-1909-Accelerator-Pump-Cup_p_1060.html Good hunting.
I read that it should be in Neutral when installed the push rod so that it is properly seated. I put the bike in gear and pull the clutch and it will not roll. I had the clutch discs out, oiled each pieces separately and stuck them in one at a time, then poured a bit more oil at the top so it would go in between the discs.
Thank the lord, I think that is the problem. I ran it for 30 seconds to check the oil, about to top it off. After I ran it I put it in gear and clutch it, and if I rock it twice it breaks loose and rolls good. I am trying to top this oil off, I've put 1 quart and a 1/4 in it just about, and it stays on the bottom centimeter of the dipstick. Every time I add more, it doesn't move. I think maybe if I start it I'll get better results? My question is, from the bottom of the dipstick to the upper mark, how much oil fills that gap? Another question I have is with the chain. I put a new chain on it, used a tool to rivet the masterlink in. One side of the masterlink is a little tighter I guess, because it's not letting the chain flex at that pivot point as easily as the rest of the chain, is this a problem? I can make it flex if I grab it and do it. I've put so much new stuff on this thing, can't wait to ride it. It had a silencer in the pipe that was probably robbing it of a lot of power. I went from a 48t to a 43t rear sprocket. Has new streetable tires on it as opposed to the dirtbike ones it had before. Riding this thing tomorrow will probably feel like a completely different bike. On a side note, I had a problem with my clutch handle sticking when I clutched it 100% sometimes, I just realised it's the handguard bracket catching the end of the lever when it's fully compressed.
After a quick oil/filter change I just dump in 1.5 quarts to get me started. Check the oil with the engine idling is how I do it, about .5 from the bottom mark to the top. If you really work at it you can get the full 2.1 quarts out of the thing if you don't rush the oil change. Get a sight glass kit for peace of mind, riding down the road you can just clutch it and let it idle, glance down and check the oil level.
That internal linkage was the source of hanging idle on my last 650R. I bought all new linkage components, installed them and the hanging idle was completely gone.
I've found the bike needs to be really warm to get an accurate oil reading. I'm talking like at least a ten minute ride, if not more. Just idling in your driveway isn't enough to get it warm and circulated. If you top off the oil when it's not warmed up, you'll end up with too much. From the minimum to maximum mark, I believe it's only 0.5 liters if memory serves me correctly. I've found that after doing a filter and oil change, if I fill the "tank" up to the very maximum when cold, it's good enough to run to get it warm to then get a final level check. As for you master link, I'd run it but keep an eye on it. You won't be able to loosen it up after riveting it too tight, but you can replace it later if it doesn't loosen up.
Good idea. I realised how cold it was outside, so I let it run until the clutch cover got nice and warm, then checked it, and I'm good to go.
The valve has a gap cut into it for the arm...I saw no guiding pin, but the holes and the axels of the linkage are enlarged and I think this is the problem. The right-left movement has a lot of amplitude. @ Brucifer Did it start easyer? Did it respond to the air screw adjustments before/after?
