Oz/ Kiwi Ktm 690 Riders Thread

Any tips on oiling a Uni Filter for a 690? I'm assuming you oil the "inside" of the filter and then just squeeze it through?

I remove the springs, tip some filter oil into a plastic bag, put the filter in the bag, and then just squeeze it through. The same way I have always done all my foam filters.

I use a spray can and give it a good spray. It seems to soak in fairly well.

Was good to get back on the 690 today,nice dirt roads south of springsure.

Thanks Mate, I think I'm sold on the orange. They look glossier than i expected. I noticed another inmate had pics of his black tanks with plain black stickers that came with the kit to make them glossy. Is that why yours look like that? or is that just how they are.
Creedy.

Glossy orange stickers ...

The tanks themselves are not really finished for use without stickers ...

I read on another post somewhere that for every kg of weight u get rid of ya gonna get the equivelant of 1 kg of hp at the back wheel.

So to max the bikes grunt and get rid of the extra crap I threw out the stock can and put an Akro on. Maybe 2 kg saved. I swapped to a much better battery with more cold crank and also 2 kg lighter.
Passenger pegs, chain guide, got rid of a mirror, lost the one hung low tail section and changed the rear sprocket to an alloy job. Lost more.

I'd say I took 9 kegs off the weight all up, and talking with former inmate guymcfly, who now has the same bike - he reckons he's taken 10 off of his. Might b running tubliss tire systems.

Has anybody come up with a better number than that? I'd be interested to hear what people have done to there bike.

Most seem to make them about 30 kg heavier!

You might improve the rideability a little bit by shedding some weight, but I doubt you'd do much to alter what happens at the back wheel - not with a bike this strong ...

The performance mods (for the sake of performance) are obviously a different story ...

yah I hear what you are saying, so maybe 'rideability was a better word to use. I found mine was better on the back wheel after its slimming routine.
I reckon it just took some of the weight off the butt end and there was less of a trend to slide out under power when doing tight hillside turns up the single trax stuff.
It also helped its turning no end, the butt slides around real nice when u get on the gas - kind of nicely controlled. Doesn't seem to push into corners so much when the speeds up either.

Would have to be a buy one get one free deal.

Wonder what yours weighs compared to Andy's?

Hard to think of a better bike on open fire trails ...

With or without rider

I'm using mine on tite single trax more and more. I backed off the steering stops til they were non existent, haven't had any problem on switch backs at all.
I find it likes to steer with the butt end, but as I said, the work I've done seems to aid that. I rode guymcfly's just a few days back. He took an extra 10 lbs or so off of his and like he said, his dry weight is the same as the new wrf 450 wet! And he'd trade the extra mass for the long service schedule and its just like having a monster mx bike!

Upgraded my previous radio only hard wired comms to the full Starcom Advance Unit so I can have music and phone as well as UHF, hard wired so no batteries to charge like on a Bluetooth set up. Got it through Dale (DMME) on the forum, great service as always.

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Fitted the Bulkhead connector on the Dash for easy connect/disconnect.

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Made up some light protectors out of some Perspex &#8220;keep it simple&#8221; they work.

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I did the same except I went for the Bikecomm Wireless bluetooth unit. I don't mind charging the unit up as I wont be doing the APC everyday.

Got Mine from Dale at DMME also

It's great, UHF and phone cut the music out when someone talks. Can still walk around the bike with your helmet on and still hear whats going on. Actually, you can walk about 15-20m away from the bike and you can still hear whats going on.

Nearly set the bike up for the APC, last on the things to do is re-grease the swingarm and linkages, Install new tyres.


Got the dash all sorted out,

• 4 x 12v mini fuse holder
• 1 x 12v from accessories
• 1 x 12v direct
• Switch for accessories (just encase I need the power to start the bike I can switch off things drawing power.
• UHF installed
• Iphone with handlebar mount and hardwired for charging
• GPS unit hardwired with ram mount
• Bikecomm unit all installed
• PTT bracket made up on the handlebars

Did you hardwire the Radio, I have a UH720SX hardwired but it is only 2 watts, I want to upgrade to a 5 watt which will allow me to use a good remote GI aerial to get good range but don't want charging hastles and most have warnings about they won't work whilst charging or you can't leave them on-charge. May end up going to a remote head car unit like the GME TX3520.
Andy

No, I haven't hard wired the UHF as I cant find a battery eliminator for the uniden UH078 5w. I did however have a look at the 240v charger for the batterys and the input to the charger is 12v, so I was thinking of unplugging the 240v supply and wiring in a 12v male cigarete lighter end and charge up the spare battery as I ride in the tank bag. If that makes any sence!!

1 battery usually does a one day ride anyway but usually carry the second one as a spare.

You can get a 12v charger for the UH078. The 240 needs 240 in then it reduces to 12 so I dont think it would work the way you plan.

Am I right in saying you can't use it whilst its charging ?