Turn your KTM950 into AWD in 3,4,5,??? easy steps

From what I saw on the Weather Channel this morning he's probably trying to dig himself out of the snow. Wish it would snow like that here, it just got done snowing for 5 days and it didn't even completely cover the ground.

Sounds like what he needs is a two wheel drive 950.

WARNING :
spoiler

http://www.cjdesignsllc.com/AWDbikes.html

for the impatient

I admit im impatient - great read and damned if I dont want one....
So when is the kit going to be ready - I'll book my ticket and come on over with my 1wd

Great work Chris

Pete

I've been swamped around the home lately, and any free computer time has been spent researching our next adventure ride. The Holidays can be a busy time. I'll try and add more to this report soon. Sorry for the delay. There's more to come.

Ya, we've got about 4" on the ground now, not too bad. I'm still trying to track down an electrical draw on my bike that leaves me w/ a dead battery every couple days. So as soon as I get that worked out it will be out in the snow and maybe on the lakes too.

Thanks for hanging in there,
Craig

Ive been curious what is the cause on the 950's electrical system that have batteries go flat in a matter of weeks, even on a brand newie.
Speedo? Regulator? CDI?

CJ, Jake, and others.........
My best advice on this having been down this road is to grab the latest regulator, fit it, and see if the problem goes away.

I run a voltmeter (VDO) ......... You should see a steady 14.5 volts from idle with the lights off

CJ, maybe a long shot, but I just figured out that my GPS was drawing power even when not turned on. 60CSX with a improperly sized (too large) and wrongly formatted memory card.... Maybe

Thanks for the tips guys.

On the Moab trip I found my GPS cable was bad, that got yanked and I thought all was good. When I got home I swapped out the Regulator for an extra one I have here. That didn't help.

I'm so close to stripping the entire bike down over the weekend when, I stumbled across this post tonight.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14659395&postcount=22

Thanks Cholla, for your 2 seconds to add that insite.

I had this hooked up wrong and considering night temps have been cold since I rebuild the bike, I hope swapping the wires fixes it.

Such an easy thing to over look. This would be a huge relief if this fixes it. I love this site.

Heh, Such a simple and obvious thing ... when its pointed out.
This would be the 4th or 5th time Ive read about this, yet I keep forgetting about it when threads come up about draining batteries...

cool! but doesn't help why the 990 still eats batteries.

Clock.some speedo gauges have a bad resistor for the clock and they drag quite o be o power.
I find this keeping a customer bike here for 2 weeks every 2-3 days the battery was dead,swap battery same all that after check it twice for hours .
disconect the speedo for a weekend and no issue , rode it and keep it disconect for 3 weeks and no issue we replace the unit and no more problems since theme ,9 months now

Do you by any chance have a picture of this resistor on the bike. I just ran into a battery issue on a camping trip this weekend. The battery was charged and ready to go, rode 30 miles and camped for the night. Next morning in 30 deg weather the bike would not start. I have the Euro light switch so all the lights were off. The volt meter showed 12.2 volts but when I hit the button, it dropped to like 5.4 volts. Had to have a buddy on a KLR jump start me.

Barclay

Awesome!

a battery at 12.2 is pretty much a dead battery.

once you hit the starter, which is a huge amperage draw, the battery had no choice but to drop down to 5.4 volts.

Ohm's Law and all that stuff

Thanks for the reply goed.. It starts the bike fine when it is not so cold. I guess I will replace the battery again..

Back to our regularly scheduled program for another installment.

Nothing else is going right today, so here we go.

Last update was here:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14582872&postcount=91

I was working on slimming down the gear box.


I had all the "GUTS" still in there so I ran no coolant and stuffed a nitrile glove to keep the chips out.

Pulled it out of the CNC and found it was still to large to fit, so back in it goes. It's easier to cut more off than put it back on. In order to cut more off I'd have to modify the internal gear. Something I wanted to avoid, but sometimes you gota do what ya gota do. I pulled the guts out and started to shorten the input gear.

Back to the Lathe to cut the TIG weld off. As this is a 2-piece gear, I can cut the gear off, shorten the shaft, and TIG weld it back together.


A few minutes later it's removed cleanly w/ no grinding, taking off just enough.




Shortened up the shaft and refit the Gear. Dropped this off to get TIG welded as I worked on the gear box again.


Clamped in the CNC I cut the gear box as slim as the bearings would allow, Not getting any smaller than this.


Picked up the gear and started to refit all the guts.


Getting closer. This looks like it won't be sticking out any further than the Honda setup did. I didn't even notice the chain case on the Honda as Christini tucked it in so tight. I was trying my best to do the same with the wider LC8 setup.


This is the Carbon fiber Slipper Clutch pack. Yes, It's going to be a very tight fit. Nothing should move once bolted up though. I don't have to worry about a rubber mounted engine like Harley's. As long as it clears and nothing explodes. We should be good.....at least that's what I keep telling myself.

Next on the list was to start looking into power transfer forward a little more. Consider my options and price cost. Trying to keep the system simple and tucked in close. I thought to try and use a few chain drives to get the gear box further to the front. Hoping to utilize a straight drive shaft like that of the Honda or KTM Christini system. The Dual Carbs just kept getting in the way.

After a few weeks of brain storming and note taking, in the end it was decided to try a CV joint. Cost was low, no vibration issues, torque load should be no issues, but can it live at these RPMS????

I starting looking for the smallest CV made, and with out having something custom made, a joint from an ATV won. Readily available and cheap.

Start w/ a Chromoly solid drive shaft and started cutting chips.


This is about 20" long and will not be rigid enough to cut w/o some help.


Pulled out the Follow rest for the first time I've used it on this lathe.
It worked great.


A Follow rest helps support the part as the cutter is fed into it to remove material. It prevents chattering of the material for a better finish, more consistent size over the length and provides longer tool life as chattering can chip the brittle Carbide cutters.

This manual lathe has power feed so I'm able to set up a good chip feed by swapping some gears and levers around, then flip a lever to start a smooth cut along the entire length.


It's still time consuming though, and after a few hrs work I have this turned down to a dia that can be used in the future.

Eye balling up the location of this drive shaft and CV joint to transfer power around the carbs.


The CV joint is about 1/2 the size of your fist and with a small frame modification should fit well.


I'll need to work on a CV support mounting point and a way to easily service this in the future without having to pull the motor.