I think the 2013 is the FI model. I have the 2012 model and it's got a carb. For issues, the only thing I think I'd like to change is the seat height. I'd like it to be an inch higher so I may either upgrade the suspension sometime this year. Other than that, I think it's very good for what it is. A decent starter bike. Eventually, I will probably sell it and buy something more powerful such as a DRZ400 or WR250R.
For seat height you can do this, cheap and easy. Coleman/Stearns ATV seat cover, available for around 20 bucks at Walmart or online (amazon/ebay) I went from the XT250 to a DRZ400S, lovin it.
Yes, but i am only 5'9 with a 30 inch inseam, on the road it is fine, i can have both feet down (toes only), looking into maybe lowering it by an inch or so, i still manage fine off road, but would like to be able to flat foot the bike for sure like i used to be able to with the xt.
Hello guys, I am going to Silverton, Colorado in July and riding several loops around the area, i need to know what type of changes if any do I have to do with jetting? I currently have a 140 main jet size when riding in 8,000-12,000 ft do I need to go to a smaller jet? If so what size? I was told that for the short time that i would be there that it wouldn't be necessary to change the jetting. Anyone that has any experience riding in this elevation with an xt 250 that has a carb please let me know. Thank you
My daughter's 2009 xt250 and my 97 dr 650 after a day of trail riding in the uwharrie national forest. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
Your Dr and the XT "look" close in seat height?.....did you lower the DR or is it an optical illusion.
I lowered the Dr when I bought it in 97 new by screwing out on the rear shock preloaded spring. It makes it too soft off road. It needs a suspension upgrade. The Dr seat is a couple inches higher than the stock xt seat. we are both short people.
I bought one of those seat pads from Walmart. I didn't like how it mounted but ran across your thread over at xt225.com and used paracord and it worked fine. Took it for a trail ride and liked the change. Around here you ride in the mud. I couldn't image riding a bike that I couldn't flat foot on the trail. It's the difference between spending a lot of time picking the bike up or managing it through the slick stuff. While I lust after bikes like the DRZ for their power, I can't talk myself out of the XT because it keeps me from breaking stuff like legs and hips...
Re: jetting for Colorado. I live at 7700 ft and ride up to about 10k regularly. I jetted the main down 2 sizes from stock, which is a 135 IIRC, so that means I have a 130. My local yamaha dealer had jets. Plus I flip the air filter cover to flow more air. My plug is still a little black. I can feel a big difference between having having the airbox open and closed even with the 130 jet. BTW, I have stock exhaust. If you try to ride at 10-12k with a 140 you will run terribly rich. You could probably get away with it if you just open up the airbox by flipping the cover, but you will lack any kind of top end on the highway. If you have a pipe you will want to be a little richer than me of course. I assume you have richened your pilot too. That's easy enough to adjust. I have stock pilot jet with screw at 2 turns. It starts easy. Or at the very least you could just bump your idle speed up to compensate for the rich idle as you gain elevation. It will probably not want to idle at all the way you are set up now. -al
I have an '81 that's been a long-term project. Finally, after several years and too much money, it's about to lurch its way into the sun light. I need to replace various cables and clean up a few bits, but she's a cool old-school dual sport. I've been stymied for a rear shock. The KYB on the back is long gone, and I don't want to pay $500 for a shock on a bike that might be worth a grand on a very good day. Anyone have any suggestions?
Hey man, thanks for the info. What I have done to my bike was changed the main jet to 140, i didn't touch the pilot, i did the z1 mod, made my own aftermarket air filter, took the filter cap off and turned my fuel screw three turns. That is how I currently sit. Oh yeah, i shimmed the needle to allow more fuel. So you say to go down 2 steps from the stock jet, is that not 125 jet? Or is there like a 133 jet needle that is between 135 and 130? Just clarifying before i open this pain in my neck. Lol. Thanks for your response.
They go 135, 132, 130 etc. If you are jetting for 10k and don't plan on riding a lot lower than that, and then putting it all back after the trip, you could go even leaner. I did what I did as a compromise since I ride from 4-10k, and even lower occasionally. I would also remove the needle shim. I could go down another size easily around here if I didn't ride in southern UT which is around 4k. When I first bought this bike I rode for a while before rejetting. It was a dog. The plug fouled horribly, to the point that I could barely maintain speed in 4th gear. If I got anywhere near WOT it would surge and stumble it was so rich. And that wasn't at 12k feet elevation. Here are the yamaha part numbers: 130 is 288-14343-65-00 128 is 288-14343-64-00 The yamaha dealership where I bought the bike is in Heber City at about 6000ft elev and they said their standard setup is to install a 130 main jet. Your air cleaner may lean things out enough to count for a jet size. I use the stock paper filter. Have fun. Are you going to RMAR? Al
Thanks a lot Al. I will be changing back to the higher jet when I get back to South Carolina. The higher jetting works well in my neck of the woods. You asked if I was going to RMAR, where is that? Or what does it stand for? We are going to Silverton, Co. And doing several loops for 5 days. Enlighten me of your question. Thanks again about the part #s and information
Hi guys, this is my first post on this site so i hope i'm doing it right. I have a 1980 xt 250 which is still going strong and I recently got a 2010 Xt250 as a run out model before the FI ones. I was wondering if they clutch start all right with a dead flat battery as I miss the security of the old kick starter. I will try and put up some photos, if I can figure it out, of my favourite rides down and around the southcoast from wollongong nsw.
Yep, at least on the pre-FI models. I killed the battery on my 2009 and had no problem push starting it.
yeah they will push start. Harder to do when it is cold unless you have a big hill to go down. I jumped mine twice with jumper cables and it never ruined the battery. Eventually I went to Walmart and bought a battery tender for $19. It comes with a pig tail that you connect to your battery and when you are done just snap the charger cable to the pig tail and it keeps it charged without having to take the plastic off.