Mine doesn't stall, so at least I don't have that to deal with. Anyway, I tried some various settings. Here's a summary. 23Mar13. Tried several MAPS today. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o> 6-222. PowerMap2. Too snappy/abrupt. This one gets a D+<o></o> 2-222. Traction/Enduro Map1. Less power, smooth delivery, runs out of power at RPM, good down low. 28miles/.93gal=30mpg. C-<o></o> 4-222. TorqueMap1. Good power, soft throttle. 25mi/0.75g=33mpg. B<o></o> 0-555. Standard R Enduro Map. OK power, slightly abrupt throttle. 25mi/.70g=35.7mpg. C+<o></o> I can smell the rich exhaust in my clothes after the above miles. Need to try 4-111 or even 4-112 where 2 is for Hi or Carby Main Jet. Wish I had access to a sniffer to see how lean/rich I'm getting. But the poor mileage and the smell tell me I'm still rich.
I'm guessing that you are overfueling. The Vortex disables the lambda sensor. So either the fuel pressure regulator or injector could be to blame. Maybe the previous owner tried to clean the injector like you would clean a jet. Before you mess with anything else replace the spark plug and check the coil connections to ensure that you are getting optimum spark.
Hi all. A friend of mine has a 2008 690E and on a ride in Utah last year the bike developed an intermittent problem where after the engine had been shut off it would not start again. We figured it was probably one of the safety switches, either kickstand or clutch. We started at the clutch safety switch and after pulling it apart and cleaning it the bike started right up. Problem solved..maybe not. The bike did this again during the ride and we employed the same fix with good enough results to finish the ride. When my friend got home he had another similiar incident so his mechanic cut the safety switch and jumpered it to remove it from the system and as we know from other posts, this misguided shortcut caused other problems. On the advice of the inmates here, the old switch was spliced back in and the bike is running fine. My friend is certain that Murphy's Law is going to strike again and leave him stranded out in the pickertoolies. With my keen sense of the obvious, I suggested a replacement of the old clutch safety switch with a new one, but I would like to solicit advice from the experience of everyone here if this would be the right fix? The previous owner has told him that the kickstand safety had been removed and replaced with the KTM kit. Is there something else that he should be looking at here also? Thanks for the help.
Anybody put one of these on lately and have the printed instructions I purchased one of these from an inmate and he didn't have the instructions, I have looked at the various post's but would like to have a copy of the instructions if any one happens to have one laying around and could scan them or fax them to me Thanks ARR
I like the concept here: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19827408&postcount=6004 Can someone tell me how it connects/drains to the rear main? And where to get the fittings for the replacement air filter? Any other thoughts?
Here's the online set. http://safaritanksusa.com/downloads/KTM 690E fitting instructions.pdf Print what you need. Here's some helpful pics from another rider. http://picasaweb.google.com/dpeward/Ktm690SafariTank#5342444625479545170
No pumps, it will empty front Alutank first. You see the fuelline in the last picture going back to the filler neck and connects there. Airfilter is easy, the EVO2 filter won't work tho, I use an uni filter.
Be sure not to open the safari tank until you have ridden about 60 miles on the main tank otherwise the main tank will overflow
Safari Tank: Rinse out new tank several times to clean out plastic shavings, mouse turds, and other crud before installing...
I put an inline filter between the safari and the main tank... I just finished changing the fuel pump in my bike as it died in my driveway two weeks ago... and set code 4long one short. taking it apart.. don't forget to unplug the air box sensor, when removing the airbox, don't forget to remove the frame grnd before you flip up the main tank as they will break... I found the fuel line was kinked from the dealer when he put the fuel line adapter on the main fuel tank... :huh I used the wiki690 web site http://ktm690.info/index.php/Main_Page for the recipe for the napa/ ca cycle pump... worked out wonderfully... not likely to kink again because of the rubber lines... vs plastic. I also found it was quite easy for the power lines to fall off the fuel pump when reinstalling so I put a zip tie right at the connections.. hopefully won't fall off... dealer 400$ for fuel pump ktm690.info recipe less than 200$ including shipping.. The bike is running again, but the bars got bent somehow last year, so the controls are all removed and the new bling is now on order for that...
I'm having an issue with coolant venting out of my overflow bottle tube. I already replaced the radiator cap and made sure the tank wasn't overfull. I seem to remember reading some guys were having this problem. Mine is a 2012 and has been doing this since new. Any ideas? I'm tired of coming home after a ride with coolant all over my right boot.
Mine did the same thing. But it wasn't coming out the hose. It was running down the hose because of a hole in my rad.
Anybody CONUS have a set of .56nm 485mm springs sitting around they would like to unload? Even .59nm would work for me. I finally got to serously ride Ginger after the rework of my shock. I put the 1-5/8 Kouba link back on first. Just so I could freaking touch the ground at least with my toes. I've decided to order in a 1" Kouba Link to keep from trashing my pan and tank. This chunky boy hits really HARD. Now the front needs a bit more spring to match up with the rear. My valving is great, just a bit more spring.
I haven't seen any leaks. The radiator looks ok. It's like when the bike gets warm it just slowly vents and fills the overflow bottle up and then pisses some out the overflow tube.
could be a bad radiator cap that is not holding the pressure. If this happens you will overflow more liquid. Bad radiator caps are more common than you might think.