NYC commuters?

BushwickKLR

Check out my writeup, it's super easy to do. This was my first time and I used EVAPORUST first which was not needed, so disregard.

http://www.svrider.com/forum/showthread.php?t=154997

Ill post some pics, I would be down to work on it asap, but I don't have time at the moment so im sending it over to a mechanic I know to get it running. The story behind it is my co-worker bought it 4 years ago from the original owner who bought it in 1974 and lived upstate, he kept it in great shape and ran it from time to time. My co-worker then ran it hard for a few years and got a divorce and left the bike at his previous wife's house for 3 years in Brooklyn. It sat there for 3 years and I just bought it. It's actually in great shape, but needs the typical things looked over etc... Ill let you know if you want to meet up one of these days, looking forward to the 2-stroke fun.

I was about 50 miles in, and 5 to 7 more before paved roads. No point in trying to turn back, just press on. The water had been flooding across the trail for the previous mile, creating a greasy slick surface. I fell over a good dozen times at least before finally riding it into that deeper section. I took the picture not knowing if I would even see the bike again. The rest of the day and evening was quite scenic but I was in survival mode by that time so took no other pictures.
I did mange to get back to the bike the next day and, with some help, to a carwash and then the highway back to Vegas where I was working.
I really like the bike (04-650), may replace it with the current model.

Are you guys interested in HID kits? The brand is o-nex. I have a small batch. Would love to sell those for a great price(lower than ebay). These are dual pack(two hids) with slim ballast.
You can find more info on http://www.o-nex.com/Products.html

Different color and bulb type available. Can bring these to ear inn.

i am interested, sure. only kit i've had experience with is from ddmtuning. any idea how these compare?

if not, tell me if there's any kind of warranty on parts and what kind of options you have in teh batch you own
- 35 watt only or 55 watt as well?
- what options re: color? i want white, maybe touch of yellow, no blue. i like seeing.
- do you have hi/lo? or one setting only?

tenks!

I'm also interested, wanting two, slim ballasts and if possible angel eyes around the bulb. I was going to run the angel eyes as daytime running lights.

I haven't found any direct comparison reviews between the two companies quality wise. They mostly compare the color output in a specific color temperature range.

But I did find some reviews for o-nex in car forums. They are mostly positive.

These o-nex are all hi-low set up. Depends on bulb type, there is bi-xenon with moving shield mechanism. While some bulb types are hi halogen, low xenon.

color range from warm 3000k to cold 12000k.

these are 35 watts with 1 year warranty from manufacture.

also like to add that hid kits are so common these days. I always have this thought all aftermarket kits are from the same factory with different labels.

this kit wont give you angel eyes. Projectors are not included.

included in package are 2 bulbs, 2 ballasts, accessories for installation and instruction manual.

do you have dimensions on the ballasts?

I will get those measured soon.

Let the questions come. Or pm me, I will post answers for all the related questions in a single thread post.

Why don't you guys use electrolytic rust removal? I think it's way better than POR 15--hook the tank up to a battery charger, plate a sacrificial anode with rust, and use concrete sealer to seal the inside of it. I've had terrific luck with that method...

can you tell me more about using concrete sealer? Is it for the final step? I am thinking to clean up my tank. I've made a power supply to use the electrolytic method. Just have to figure out how to seal the tank.

My tips:

dont bother looking for sodium carbonate (arm and hammer washing powder)--it is impossible to find. instead, take sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) and heat it in aqueous soln. to about 180F. The carbon boils off and you get sodium carbonate.

once you are done with the treatment, flush the tank with water. Then pour in phosphoric acid (this is concrete sealer, or actual phosphoric acid) for an hour or two. Then flush with baking soda solution to neutralize the acid. then water. then acetone to absorb the water. then dry the whole thing very very well. Then slosh ATF around inside it.

Initially:


Big, possibly flammable and corrosive mess:



Satisfaction!


ATF for extra sealing:







http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm
http://www.instructables.com/id/Electrolytic-Rust-Removal-aka-Magic/
http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html
http://www.antique-engines.com/electrol.asp
http://www.rowand.net/shop/Tools/Electrolysis.htm

How long did the treatment take? what kind of power source did you use? My power supply is actually a ATX power supply converted to a bench tester. It's got 12v and 5v source. max output of the unit is about 380W. do you think this will work?

I also have a battery tender jr. Not sure if that will work. others had said that it has to connect to a real battery in order to initiate the charge.

I used a junky battery tender, the tiny kind you get at autozone for $20 that's 6V or 12V. It has to connect to a battery to initiate a charge to, but you can vary the resistance of the water buy putting in more or less sodium carbonate (bicarbonate, I forget), and sanding the sacrificial anode so it's bare. Your mega charger would work, but you should research what the ideal method is, which I don't know.

It took maybe 8 hours of being hooked up to the charger, with sanding of the sacrificial anode (which gets plated with the rust) every hour, or whenever the charger stopped charging becuase the resistance got too high.

the whole process took a day. Boring and tedious, but incredibly satisfying at the end!

I did a Honda C70 (shown) tank two honda hobbit tanks (with decent results, though the anode can only "see" about half the tank, and a Honda CB550 tank. The C70 tank is the best because the whole inside is concave. If the anode cant see the entire inner surface of the tank it takes longer, I think (but I may be wrong). Whatever is closest to the anode gets cleaned first.

i tried to do that.

i think my anode was the wrong metal - i tried using a threaded rod from home depot and it's probably some kind of zinc plated crap. anyway i got a lot of white/green foamy crud, kind of like you'd see at a nasty beach. no rust though.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=198618

not sure how i want to proceed now. i bought the POR kit, so that money's spent. people rave about it generally, also. and i don't have phosphoric acid

edit: oh here's the skunk btw

Please explain how it's way better than POR-15?

For $47.50 shipped I can take care of the tank rust and never have to worry about it again.

I'm familiar with all the different processes and methods several companies offer for this and the best one (and easiest) requiring the least amount of effort is hands down POR-15. I don't have a garage as I live in the city, your method would require me to purchase several things I don't currently own and have to look for to take care of this.

Check out my write-up... super easy to take care of and to this day my Ninja tank is in superb shape (Ethanol and all).

terrific write up, great photos. thanks for that.
question: do you have to worry about the petcock holes (threaded bolt holes, main hole) with the sealant (final can)? someone mentioned that the sealant will dry in them. things like this are why i haven't gotten around to doing my tank yet :)

Not at all, once you are done spinning the tank in all directions and coating the whole thing (letting the liquid go everywhere), you then have to pour the excess out and throw it away. Once you spin it enough and it has coated the tank perfectly, grab a box smaller than the tank ligned with a paper bag (that wont leak from the bottom) and place the tank on a corner (petcock hole facing down) to make sure even the smallest amount of excess drips out without smearing on your paint. Once that's done you are good because there wont be any excess to dry in any of the holes. I would then use the brush and go over any puddling in the petcock hole (if you're paranoid) and also go over the gas tank hole in case you missed that area (as it's typically curved).

I'm a perfectionist with things, so after I thought I got all the liquid out, I held the tank upright where the petcock corner hole is (so stuff would puddle there) for 5 min or so, and then turned it and got even more stuff out from the petcock hole.

It is super easy to do, remember the consistency is watery (I expected oily) so its easy to coat it everywhere inside and pour it out. Once you're done, just leave the tank alone for a few days and let it dry. I'm actually looking forward to doing this again this weekend.

Can you clean my tank for me too :)

J/K. Your write up was great. I actually read a few times. I just happen to have most of stuff to do the electrolytic method at my disposal. So I will give that a try. Hopefully my bench tester wont blow things up.

I am actually doing this on a SV650 tank. This thing has two big holes, one for gas cap and other one for fuel pump. Got any idea what I can use to plug the holes?

I also have two ideas in mind.
1, half tank first, then flip it upside down for the other half.
2, submerge the tank in a plastic container to charge the whole thing at once. I hope the two holes will line up so the anode will go thru.