Sorted out the idleing today - dont know how as i,ve pillued tehcarby apart about 10 times - seems to sort itself out after warm up. Only get about 2 vdc at blinkers and rec so problem somewhere before i evn worry about a 12 v convert. Thanks Brett
The cunning plan using capacitors is entirely unsuccessful - even 2 of the little devils produced sweet fuck all results at low revs So moving on to Plan N - N for Numbnut - I'm looking at running a lightweight Shorai 12V 7Ah battery as the backup power. The power / charge circuit will be from the white AC magneto wire unregulated into a bridge rectifier to produce DC power which will be regulated within the charging range of the battery. I'm gonna run everything off this source
Hi lenz, With bridge rectifier - did you run dc neg straight to frame, and ac neg on black return wire into magneto. Thanks Brett
The black return wire is joined to AC neg rectifier terminal. I opted to not use the frame as the common DC earth / return and ran the DC circuit isolated from the frame. Apparently lifting the return wire off the magneto "earth" and running the lighting coils isolated from the frame produces increased power. Betta Bikes in South Australia has advised me they routinely rewind lighting coils to produce increased electrical output. The recommended setup is to send them the stator backing plate and they will install 2 upgraded lighting coils that are then joined to produce around 160 watts. Because I am looking to install LED headlights plus GPS I will run the ignition system as the standard unaltered AC circuit but the upgraded lighting coils will produce AC into a combined rectifier / DC regulator for 100% DC output with a gel battery. It appears lead acid / gel batteries are much more tolerant than lithium batteries when it comes to high recharge rates so a good quality gel based battery around 7Ah will be also on the purchase list. Why am I doing all this work I hear you say .... I bought the bike as a low km basket case (not running) with the intention of bringing it up to specs for rough bush tracks and cheap, fun road transport before I upgraded to a new bike. However after a 750km and a couple of 650km days on our seriously beatup roads in Queensland I've realised I don't need to spend a shitload of money on a new Triumph 800 XC - I now just need to upgrade the lights / electrical output and order a fuel bladder for extra range on longer runs The seat is comfortable, the suspension works fine, the bike only weighs 130kg - 135Kg, it's stable at speed and handles with the lightest of input.The engine is dirt simple but continues to put a smile on my dial when I open the throttle - 15:50 final gearing in 6th gear at just under 110kph just open the throttle and it accelerates hard to 145kph and tops out at 150kph - I don't need any more "go" than that Average fuel consumption is 4.5 - 5.5litres / 100km. I don't know how this engine compares to standard TT350s in performance / output but there are certainly many areas that can be improved from standard in the porting, manifolds, inlet tract, air filters, cam chain adjustment. Carbies are standard TT350 with std jetting - they just need to be adjusted correctly and they work perfectly. I have described my modifications to these areas in previous posts here and in the XT350 focussed thread. The brakes can only be described as adequate at best ..... This bike ticks most of the boxes for me After upgrading the electrical output / lighting and fuel capacity I expect to enjoy a lot of not so gentle kilometers around Australia - who says I needed a new 650 Wee Strom / Triumph Tiger 800 XC / 1200 mega bike etc etc
For me, a perfect stable would be a TT350 and a WeeStrom. The DR650 is a great do all bike, but just not so good 2 up.
I seriously doubt that anyone's perfect stable would consist solely of a V Strom and a TT350... While these two bikes would complement each other well, and be different enough that each has its own specific use, I think most peoples "perfect stable" would consist of at least six bikes, with three of those being mega expensive rare as hens teeth single focus bikes that would be a massive pain in the ass to live with...
My perfect bikes need to be able to take a hit with a large hammer without looking uglier than previously.
Hi lenz, I see your seperating the ground as it appears you need a floating grd in either ac or dc circuit for this to work. My circuit diag indicates ac dc share ground and run on same system sort of eg tail light blinkers brake light
The tail light (AC) and brake light (DC) originally shared the same earth so since I didn't have a clue how this worked I ran the tail light and brake light off the DC circuit and isolated the DC circuit from the frame common gnd used by the AC circuit. The guys from Betta Bikes tell me there are increases in output if the return / gnd / black wire from the lighting coil is not connected to the coil laminations / frame (common gnd) but alternatively run to the AC neg terminal on the bridge rectifier. The end result was a headlight only that ran on AC with the rest on DC - still a bloody mess that lost all lights at low revs / idle. So I've managed to get the rotor off after a serious battle - shit those things are on tight - and I find 2 stator coils. The smaller of the coils has the ignition duty judging by the output wire colours and there's a single big, heavily wound coil that runs the lighting duty. I've measured the ignition coil output at up to 60V AC and the lighting coil at greater than 25V AC but it's the power that's available under load at low revs that I've got a problem with. I thought Mr Lucas of British bike fame was the only "Prince of Darkness"..... Being taken out in traffic because some clown couldn't see my near dead lights just has no appeal to me. So there's pics to be taken of the original coils attached to the backing plate and advice sought on what needs to be done next week. As I mentioned earlier I've decided to bite the bullet and install additional high output lighting coils with a full 12V DC system - except for the AC requirements of the ignition circuit.
Hi lenz, Google rexs speed shop - they have 12v conversion kits for 70 quid for an xt 250. I have emailed hime twice with quires but have had no reply. I had my tt upgraded to a 22 litre tank in 1993 at tt outrider in st peters which is no longer there. They sold conversion kits for tts including 12 v conversion, oil cooler panniers big tanks the whole deal. Jeeze they would be handy now i have money. But by chance i spotteda post referring to the owner so i have pm'd him about how they did the 12 v conversion. They used to sell these kitted up as adventure bikes - good guys. Bumped into the guy who bolted my tank on at a road house in alice springs when i roder her acroos australia in 93'. Regards Brett
I'd like small oil cooler and really want a bigger tank... Was up in the hills yesterday with MT43's on the TT and 15/52 gearing (DR750 front sprockets, 14-15t, fit perfectly and have a 10mm thick spline) and it went well enough for normal adventuring but not for more extreme slow speed stuff. Cough stalled a few times at low revs which didn't sound nice at all and then swapped to a 14t sprocket and all was well in the world...
Mate, mines a 22 litre acerbis - it really looks the biz too. as stated wish I did scrimp all those years ago and got the oil cooler and 12v conversion - he had other stuff as well.
I had to buy a new std volume Clarke fuel tank out of the US due to major cracking appearing in the original tank once fuel was in it. I'm happy with that decision because I can supplement the std fuel volume with a roll - up - when empty fuel bladder from liquidcontainment.com.au on the Gold Coast Queensland and not have a big tank when it's not required. Betta Bikes in Sth Aust have the 12V DC conversions sorted and another good source of motorcycle electricals is Gosford Motorcycle Wreckers in New South Wales. I had a close look at the stator coils today. The return coil wire is bolted through the coil laminations (normal) and supposedly makes electrical gnd contact with the backing plate via either the securing bolt or direct contact between wire then coil laminations then stator backing plate. What I found when I unscrewed the bigarsed lighting coil was electrical insulation material around the securing bolts, in the threads and between the coil and the backing plate. So how this lighting circuit was achieving full continuity is something of a mystery to me. Could explain a few things maybe ... I'm not inclined to bin the existing lighting coil just yet, maybe the most cost effective solution is to buy one additional lighting coil, join it in parallel with the existing coil and run the increased AC output through a bridge rectifier/DC regulator and battery. Just a heads up on the puller required to remove the rotor. Working from the central boss is the only way to avoid damage to the rotor as the outer holes are too weak for any kind of puller attachment. The thread on the central rotor boss is a LEFT HAND 27mm diameter 1.0mm pitch little darling. A steel wad of 17mm dia or slightly less is needed for the central puller bolt to push on the outer end of the crankshaft. The puller I borrowed off a mate sheared the original central puller bolt (12mm dia x 1.75mm pitch and apparently made of the dreaded "shit metal") - replaced with a high tensile bolt and tore thread off the main body of the puller when I had less than the full threaded rotor boss fully engaged - yes FUCKING TIGHT - not looking for a repeat performance .... be advised
They bolted 2 flat plates 2 tank and welded a square tube with an m12 nut in each end welded in where you bolt the tank to, the inner bit has been fleshed out with some rubber sponge. The tank sat full from Sydney to perth through all sorts of terrain and no cracks. If you look you can just see old mount poking out from top right of plate. Ted
So the stator backing plate with all the generating coils attached is on it's way to Betta Bikes for at least one additional lighting coil, rectifier and DC regulator and I've been working through the LED lighting suppliers for suitable headlights. The units I'm going to install are an evolution of current light bars with 4 x 10 watt CREE LEDS producing 900 lumens each LED. The units run reflectors that produce light dispersion patterns of "flood", "euro" and "spot". So it's 2 headlight units with the flood as the low beam and either euro or spot combined with flood as the high beam. These lights are a new product for Aussietoughlights - just search LED lighting. The plan is to run these headlights as an "under and over" setup with a shared mid-line mount. Tomorrow the clutch will be pulled apart and massaged with the thicker 2.00mm steel plate going to the inside of the pack and all steels getting a touch of wet and dry 600 / 800 paper on a 20mm thick steel plate I had ground dead flat some years ago for cleaning up speedway bike clutch plates. Steel plates are prone to warping when subjected to high load / heat. The steels in my clutch don't appear to have any ugly high spots but a light touch on the "grinding plate" tells the tale.
