Greetings InMates, Looking at replacing my rear brake rotor. Any suggestions re reputable suppliers in the states.
Braking usa has a nice "wave" rotor. inmate b.ringrose has some pictures floating around with the same rotors.
Hey Guys just wondering if a 120/100x18 rear tire will fit in the XRR swing arm instead of the stock size 110/100x18. Wanting to try the Kenda K760's and was thinking of going with the larger size tire. Any pros or cons with going with the larger rear tire..
Yep, fits just fine. I currently have a Dunlop 908 in a 140/80-18. And that's a monster. I have a Kenda 760 waiting to go on.
Dirtard-- There is an auto compression release mechanism on the cam. It works on centrifugal force, or how fast or slow the cam turns. Is your idle really low? Try bumping it up a bit, and see what happens?? When I had my top end apart, I took the mechanism off and welded the oil feed hole shut. Hotcams do not allow use of the auto decomp either. You may have bigger issues, but without hearing it in person, this is my stab in the dark. Good luck.
I'm posting here because I know you guys will convence me to get an XRR. I currenly have a XRL heavily modified: xr600 piston, nx650 second gear, daves mods, power bomb/super trapp, stage 2 cam ... It rips, for an XRL. However, now that I'm pretty much done with the build up I'm getting a bit bored. I resently moved to Prescott AZ and am loving desert riding. If I could ride rough 2 track every where I go I would, but the fact is I spend 90% of my time in the saddle commuting to work. I'm thinking about picking up an XRR for somewhere around $2500, then saving up and getting a set of supermotos. I want to improve my dirt skill but cannot buy a light weight dirt bike as my motorcycle is my primary vehicle and I need it to be highway worthy. Because I ride so much pavement I'm thinking the supermoto setup will be extremely entertaining. I know what you guys are thinking, "well get on with it and buy the xrr." I am hesitant for two reasons. How much maintance will a xrr as a primary vehicle be? I take a couple adventure trips a year 800 mile plus. I know the seat stucks, so I'll replace it, but how is it at highway speeds with winds compared to an XRL?
Well, the XR has been sitting in the garage for two weeks now.....not a single ride. Being that it is a 2000 model, I have had some concerns and I don't want that itch when I am riding up in the mountains, "a ways" from the casa. So, I spent 10 hours on her today....... Here she is....as I purchased her. And the tear-down begins..... Thankfully, the wheel bearings are in smooth, great shape. But....the odometer at the axle was a little dry. I cleaned her up and re-greased. I expected more baffling and resistance in the tail pipe, but it was just a big chamber with this screen. The rear disk brake, plastic protector was broken. I just removed it. I plan to replace it with a metal solution. Slowly, she is coming apart......
I completely tore down the ProLink and checked the bearings and relubed. One little issue that I will have to address in coming months.....is this wearing...... I have heard that this is a problem, over time, with all XR's. I wonder if a couple of thin, nylon washers might be the ticket. For the time being, I put it back together and lubed it up. I will need to purchase another, rear mud deflector. This is the grease I opted to use in all the bearings and such...... I wasn't interested in any grease that would go nasty with a little H2O in the mix. I went ahead and cranked down the preload on the rear shock. Upon taking her for a test ride.....I am so much happier with this stiffness. If this doesn't keep me happy, I will purchase an 11.5 kg spring. I decided to go completely through the carb. I am almost certain this bike has been rejetted. Glad I had my Daddy's Farm tools around to tighten up some of the nuts........ And.....she is back together, sporting her new boob job (the Acerbis Sahara)........ I have ordered the Tanker Brace from Hodakaguy....and it will be mounted by weeks end. My Rox Risers are scheduled to be deliver tomorrow. This bike is running so awesome right now. Tons of power and great handling. Very happy to have her!!!!!
It's still going to have the primary gearing of a dirtbike transmission, but the 650R can pull a 15t countershaft and do hwy speeds fairly comfortably. I switched between a 13t, 14t, and 15t all using the stock length chain (110 link). It's a mountain goat with a 13t. If it's going to do a LOT of road work, consider a RAD cush hub laced to your wheel (or a RAD wheel - I used RAD CACR7000's front and rear on mine). Keep clean oil in it and check the valve lash, it will give you a long service life.
correct i run 1 myself , cant remember the rear ill have to look but i can sit on 70mph allday long and love's it
Has anyone had any issues mounting with the FMF Power Bomb header? I just mounted mine up with a White Bros E-Series Pipe. It is extremely close the clutch cover area and when I start up the engine it actually hits a little. Just wondering if I need to take the exhaust off and try to re-adjust it or if something was made wrong.
Mine is very close, but doesn't quite touch. My dad's XR has the same pipe as well and his isn't quite as close. Both were already fitted when we got the bikes.
PT, I've been using my XRR mostly for commuting for the past 20 months, with a little dirt work and pleasure rides here and there. So far I've put over 8,000 miles on my 2nd owner piggy. For what you want to do, the XRR is a fine bike once a few mods are done. You will most likely want a bigger tank. The stock tank doesn't offer much range, so you may end up filling up once or twice a day depending on the length of your commute. The stock seat is on par with a prostate exam. A Guts Racing foam and cover kit is an inexpensive upgrade, though there are many fine custom seat builders who can work miracles in the seating department, (check back a few pages here in this thread to get some ideas). I am running a 15/44 sprocket combo for the highway, with stock rims and D606 tires. She'll pull 70 MPH all day long at 40 MPG or better. If I want to get into some serious dirt riding, I can change the front sprocket to a 13 tooth in about 15 minutes and have gearing nearly equivalent to the stock 14/48 set-up. Oklahoma gets pretty damn windy. Going down the highway, she dances a bit more than the XRL I had, due to the lighter weight. The more powerful engine is nice to have when it comes to riding into a headwind though. When the XRL was fighting to maintain 70 MPH, the XRR will still accelerate, even with highway gears. 15-20 MPH winds tend to be the norm here and windy days are 25-30 MPH with higher gusts. If it gets too bad, you can always tuck down to the tank a bit, or get a windscreen kit like Turbo City sells. The wind just doesn't bother me that much that often, to justify a windscreen. -Joe
I'd be carefull with your adjustments there. Often you cannot use the entire threaded area of a shock. It may be there, but the limit of shock preload is very little. I think 1cm. You also run the risk of the spring going solid state (coils touching eachother) transfering the force to the threaded adjusters which could cause a very nasty accident if they were to let go. If you are in the 11.5kg range, there's no solution other then new springs front and rear. I would look into this before riding that bike again. As you can see, you have preloaded that spring by over an inch!
Thanks! I think i'll give it a shot. On the whole rear pre-load note discussed above, I found that setting it to about 100mm sag (pig pen advice) with rider on really, really helped the front end perform. Might want to consider measuring this rather than just cranking the rear shock down. One the other hand if it feel good go with it.
Big John for the disk brake guard I'd go with the Scotts one piece like this. Can get it locally too. http://www.brpmoto.com/products?pag...lypage.pbv.tpl&product_id=803&category_id=351
I understand and you make some very important points.. I have adjusted the spring to where it behaves exactly as "Race Adjustments" suggest......3" of sag with the rider. At the setting I have it at, I sag exactly 3.5". As for the springs touching at full compression......I don't think it will happen. I have measured it carefully. You are probably 100% correct.....I will probably go to the new springs. .
