Full Synithitic Oil in 990

New 2010 990 Owner

Hello, even before I start if this has already been covered please send me to correct post…

I just purchased a used 2010 KTM 990 Adventure with 11K miles on it that was switch over to fully synthetic oil after 2K miles, I have never went to full synthetic on any of my past motorcycles and wanted to see what your thoughts are on if full synthetic is a good option for this bike, and if not is there any possible way to move back to a semi synthetic or standard oil.

Thanks

990's are broken in at the factory with Motorex Power Synt 10w-50 full synthetic. Then KTM refills them with the same thing and delivers to dealers. The engine was born with full synth in it so I'd keep running it. And actually, these motors are designed for full synthetic. All oil belief structures aside, it's a good idea to run the type of oil that the engine was designed for: 10w-50 full synth.

I was told KTM uses Motorex Power Synt 10w-50 full synthetic in this machine:

http://youtu.be/c37esaT1a04

Tried to embed the YouTube video into this post but admins must have disabled embedding of video in vBulletin or something.

PS black on grey is hard to read.

Thanks, the vid was great...

TB

I'd recommend restructuring your financial portfolio to increase your cash holdings. You're gonna need it.

I DEFINITELY recommend synthetic, but OMG it get's expensive. I jumped for joy when I was able to buy a case of Power Synt 10-50 from the Motorex guys at a rally for $100. It was the last box and they made me a smokin' deal. That's $8 a bottle!

I'm actually going through all this right now trying to sort out a shifting "annoyance". As long as the bottle says that it meets JASO MA standards (JASO MB is for a dry clutch; MA is for wet clutches) then it's fine. As far as full synthetic I still think its better but I've poured full synthetic into the engine and then used regular dino oil on top of that, all from different brands and I think the weights were the same.

Hey, I had leftovers I had to get rid of.

Sometimes full synthetic oil is damn hard to impossible to find when it's time to change the oil when you're out of the country. I use what I get, though named brand, in the same viscosity and run it and change oil more frequently.

Haven't fucked with an oil thread in a while.

What haven't I put in this beast in the past 35k (3 years)? Right now I'm rocking some "classic car" valvoline 5-50. Running great.

I run Motorex 10W-50. Check out Pyndon's thread: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147440

He had a leak and had to tear down the engine once it had high mileage. For the most part, everything was within spec. He's asked in there somewhere after reporting the teardown what oil he used. He states he ran whatever was available when the need arose.

We are the same, currently running 20-50 4T dino oil in the SE and will change at 4.5 - 5k instead of 7.5k

Fresher oil more often v full syn burnt longer? .... great arguement there ..... runs for cover

Funny thing is the engine is quieter using this than the Motorex???? Why??, the Motorex was 10-50 so not much weight differnce ... hmmmm.

I like it when the cam chain clatter scares the Honda rice rocket riders when you pull up next to them at a light.

The black on gray is much easier to read, should be the standard.

Good points guys.

I personally would much rather stick to KTM's design specs and recommendations: 10w-50 full synth.... Preferably Motorex. Motul, Castrol, Bel-Ray, Maxima, and Repsol also make great full synth 10w-50's for motorcycles with JASO MA wet clutch certification, if you can't get your hands on Motorex.

However, if one has to run semi-syth or non-synth it is important to stick to the same weight. Changing low temp (first number) and high temp (second number) viscosity can adversely effect engine operation. The LC8 is designed for the mechanical resistance that the 10w-50 oil viscosity imparts on the engine parts.

:huh

However, some people should post with grey on grey.

Here's a list of what I would say are the most common oil's I've seen folks run in the 950/990


Motorex 10-50
Rotella T6
Mobil 1 15-40
Mobil1 20-50

....another oil thread...yippeee

anyway, been looking for a year round oil (for Nebraska, not California) as, while I dont mind (too much) forking out ridiculous amounts of money for Motorex, I hate the thought of leaving winter oil in for summer and vice versa. Today I discovered Maxima Ultra 4T 5W50. Problem solved! I can pay even more than Motorex and have it shipped to my door, or I can drive 400 mile round trip and pick it up in Denver if they special order it for me...for a whole dollar less a liter than the last price I paid for Motorex.

BTW, I am bent over and ready to be reamed by the oil-thread trolls who like to screw with the anal people like me who worry about these sorts of things (those guys that drain oil from their tractors to throw in their Katum and have had 77,000 trouble-free miles)

This year-round oil quest is all about my peace of mind (I do know that more engineering goes on in the advertising department of oil companies than in their labs).

Anyway, anyone used Maxima stuff, or this oil specifically? Anyone know a distributor closer to the Dead-Center?

Well shit while we are at it,

Use 20 - 50 4T dino oil and change it at say 2500 - 3000 miles

or

Use Motorex/similar full syn and change at 4500 miles

Oil experts? lesser? qualilty oil changed more often so cleaner oil or better? quality oil in for much longer

Hope the oil Police don't shoot me but on the road not everything is available at the local store on top of a volcano!!

Maya's engine is quieter with 20 - 50 dino oil ..... so???????

I use slippery oil. Sometimes it's brown colored, but usually more of a honey color. One time I actually looked at the wt of oil... Engines like clean oil better though so make sure the jug is hermetically sealed from the factory or else the valves will fall out.

In all seriousness... Sure, run the recommended oil wt (or a step thicker for really hot climates/a step lighter for colder climates), but brand or type is of less importance as long as it's JASO and WA. Even more important is on time and regular oil changes. Just my 2 cents from the last 15 years of oil changes in bikes from crotch rockets to harleys to dirt bikes to dual sports.

(I know I'll get flamed for that statement, but my bikes engines speak for themselves.)

Sweet, we are in exactly the same boat here .... although the oil didn't taste like honey ....flame suit on too