Show us your TransAlp modifications!

danyila · Mar 14, 2013

http://vimeo.com/61606264

This is too much ! Hard ! Very hard. Russian film. Good team.
Good !!! ))) No problem. )

This area:

GPS: 53.092375, 56.465378

Hiking around the lake !

GSPD750 · Mar 14, 2013

danyila said: ↑

http://vimeo.com/61606264

This is too much ! Hard ! Very hard. Russian film. Good team.
Good !!! ))) No problem. )

This area:

GPS: 53.092375, 56.465378

Hiking around the lake !
Click to expand...

Awesome vid! 19 minutes well spent. All thumpers too...and
rightly so. Were those ticks they were pulling out of their skin with
thread? :huh
The field radiator repair was cool. Vodka and rope also appears to be standard issue in those parts for a trip such as that. Thanks for putting that up.

Ladder106 · Mar 14, 2013

Great vid.

Note the complete lack of hard bags.

Good thing it didn't rain. T'was muddy enough already.

Also, it would appear that the women don't take kindly to motorcycling types....sad.

happyclam · Mar 14, 2013

danyila said: ↑

http://vimeo.com/61606264

This is too much ! Hard ! Very hard. Russian film. Good team.
Good !!! ))) No problem. )

This area:

GPS: 53.092375, 56.465378

Hiking around the lake !
Click to expand...

Awesome! Thank You. Makes me miss my xrl, colorado, and vodka. Might have to try that tick trick.

mgorman · Mar 14, 2013

thepoddo said: ↑

I already lowered them 21mm, but I'd like to take advantage of the greater excursion
and unless I use some more raisers the rebound registers on top of the forks are going to end up against the lower end of the handlebars
Click to expand...

Make sure your tire does not bottom against the lower clamp, that could ruin your day

Ladder106 · Mar 14, 2013

From what I've done in this area, I find you wil contact the frame downtube (and crashbars if installed and the front wheel is turned) before you will contact the bottom triple clamp.

I you possess any sense of self-preservation, you will assess the full travel of front and rear suspension and make certain that the tire stays free of hard parts.

thepoddo · Mar 15, 2013

already tried and tested for that
I bottomed hard just once, coming down from a 60° slope to a flat part
the wheel sligthly scratched the crashbars, nothing major
I am pretty sure it won't get stuck in there since wp forks have the wheel advanced 60mm more that the regular ones, and it was already happening many times with those

I guess I am going to check anyway, and I'll make myself a couple 20mm spacers just to be sure

hobes · Mar 15, 2013

Santa said: ↑

I wanted to ask if anyone has recomendations for rad shrouds and maybe pics?
I see that UFO sells the 89 CR 125 shroud in the US.
Anybody have a pic of them on a TA?
Click to expand...

hobes said: ↑

here is my '88 TA (PD06) im owning since '92, modified a little bit in the late '90ties

RD04 engine
RD04 swingarm
RD03 fork and brake

Click to expand...

yes, these shrouds are for a '89 CR 125/250 (from Cemoto), since several years no longer available here in Germany or Europe.
It's nice to hear that UFO sells them - still or again (fortuantely I still got one Cemoto set)

thepoddo · Mar 15, 2013

you can drop a mail at UFO
I heard they always keep the molds and can run a small batch production if asked

Royce Cochran · Mar 15, 2013

Made a little progress on the TA. Installed some new LED turn signals and extra LED indicators. Welded a couple of brackets on the engine guards to get the turn signals on a lower plane, away from the head lights. Replaced the RD07 clocks that came on it, to me, with correct RD04s. That bit of rewiring led to adding a relay for each headlight, 1 relay for the horns, an LED flasher relay and a couple of relays for the turn signals. By using 2 NC relays you can wire the turn signals as running lights (always on) and cause them to flash as turn signals, and light the indicators. This, of course is not new, there's all kinds of info on the web on how to do it, but it still took a couple of trys to get em all working right. Boy, this stuff was a lot easier 40 years ago.

Bonnie & Clyde · Mar 15, 2013

Sweet Rothmans TA

KilgoreTrout · Mar 16, 2013

danyila said: ↑

http://vimeo.com/61606264

This is too much ! Hard ! Very hard. Russian film. Good team.
Good !!! ))) No problem. )

This area:

GPS: 53.092375, 56.465378

Hiking around the lake !
Click to expand...

Can't wait for some spring mud to ride in

Ladder106 · Mar 16, 2013

I remember the days before every 3rd person had a law degree.....days when you could just take off and ride cross-country like those guys did.

Now every bloddy vacant lot has chainlink around it and all of our off-road planning is tied up trying to determine if the forest service gates are open or locked.

KilgoreTrout · Mar 16, 2013

Yes you definitely have to travel further to get to virgin riding too many farms and ranches in this area with barbwire everywhere might have too travel into northern Alberta this summer very similar country to video. Question for you Ray on your DR 750 where did you source your crash bars and screen from or is that a stock tall screen? I have some parts coming for the transalp from CMSNL but there is not much available for the DR. Is Hessler the only option I imagine shipping would be pricey. Cheers Brian

Ladder106 · Mar 16, 2013

DR 750 crashbars are from Hessler. Ricky Cross. They are what he recommends as "best" but I took me 2 days to mod the mounting system so it didin't stick out so far that the front tire would contact is on full fork compression.

I've seen other pics of some of the other types with large pieces of flat stock that do not hold up at all in a tip-over.

My screen is a Givi. No longer made and rare as hens teen. Keep trying to find another with no luck. I think I may take it to a fiberglass master that I know and use it for a mold to make copies. Too low to look through even on the trail so an opaque finish would be OK.

Stefans pretty much the only game in town for DR Big modded bits.

Resi on the DR750 site has some nice stuff that he's built here:

http://www.bollertante.de/photo.html

P3ia · Mar 16, 2013

Just wanted to show you guys the crashbar i got from Heed, a polish firm.
Real studry and good quality. Havent dropped the bike yet but it's not going to be a poblem when I do.

I saw them on a polish forum forum and tracked em down. They had some other stuff on sale on E-bay and I asked them if they could start a sale for the Transalp crashbar there and they did a couple of minutes later. So that's where I bought it.
I saw today that they started selling all their stuff on E-bay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/heed_heed/m.html

My crashbar:

Dr E · Mar 18, 2013

Well it has been to long between updates so decided to couple a few things. First off here are some of my recent updates. In wanting to keep the gas tank temperature down as I have done with all my other builds, I lined the gas tank with aluminum reflective tape.
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On my race bikes and busas this has made a large difference in fuel temperature.
A couple of months ago I was starting on the side panels and realized that my front turn signals were cracked on the lens and otherwise old. So, I updated the turn signals to LEDs. Given that the signals were not the same size as the OEMs, I filled the spare space with mesh to act as a catch for debris that might enter the opening.

On the same note, I decided to update the lower plastic bash plate wherein the side panels were limited in size and since I was in a modifying mode I opened up the side panels and included some mesh. I like the overall look and since I have raised the suspension almost 8 I feel comfortable putting some time into this part. If at some point I destroy this part, I have the aluminum plate to build a nice real bash plate.

The kickstand was an issue as I had already built a new one when I installed the CR250 shock, however, once I installed the new Hyperpro shock I found that I had missed the geometry with the new stand and in essence I had an unstable bike. Soooothis weekend I made a new stand and I am so happy with how the position of the bike. I can hope on and off the bike and nothing moves.

With all this work going on, I did not want to put the horn back in its original positionand there is a reason. I have had several hard near misses where I have only remained alive because I was able to ride out of the position I was in. Well, I have found that repositioning the horn has alleviated this issue with my other bikes. So, using the stock brackets I found a place right under the air filter that does NOT interfere with removing the filter and puts the sound right in the environment where I want it.

Back at the beginning of the build I found I was dealing with very old tiresvery old! Well, with dirt tires, my NOMAR tire system does not do squat for these rims. After destroying a new set of tubes using metal tire tools, I needed a new plan. I spent a few days researching tools and found STUBBYS which are made from Delron material. Holy Cow! I was able to change each of the tires in under 15 minutes. I am sure you guys have great tools that are well suited for doing this, but I wanted to share what I have found.

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Dr E · Mar 18, 2013

Now I am concerned about a back rest for Robin and her back when she is on the back during rides. This was what I came up with and I have to say it is very comfortable. I am reutilizing the seat cover that came with the bike when I bought it and in the end…I am very happy!

Now for the meat of this post. I am sure that many of you have had to change the radiator fluid and if you follow the Honda method you will end up having to “burp” the system until the thermostat has opened and closed enough to cycle the engine until you have filled both radiators, engine and reservoir bottle. Well, I have been building cars and bikes for many years and during the rebuild in my Porsche Boxster I came across the AIRLIFT system. It allows you to fill the entire cooling system of any vehicle in less than 3 minutes.

On the Boxster I was presented with almost 40’ of radiator hose, two radiators, a complex engine and large scale reservoir…and this system filled the my car in under 4 minutes on a single shot. How it works…using a venturi system you draw a vacuum on the cooling system, switch to the fill tube and draw the fluid in…then you’re done. I have documented the process step by step. You pull 25 to 30 psi vacuum on the system, once you have the vacuum, you close the system remove the venturi attachement and wait 20 seconds. If it does not bleed down, you have an airtight system with zero leaks. Then you hook up the fill attachment and open the ball valves. When the system reaches zero your system is filled. If you look in your radiator and notice it is not to the top, you may have to do this a second time. For this system I was able to do the whole bike in a single draw.
Here is what the system looks like and how easy it is to use:

Ladder106 · Mar 18, 2013

Coming from that Hayabusa background has certainly tainted your judgement.

The back pad only has to be attached to the leading edge of the top case.

Sorry to disappoint, but here is no way the TA will accelerate hard enough to make the padding over the top necessary......even if Robin's spine is that flexible.

Oh....where'd'ja get the shiny tape?

Dr E · Mar 19, 2013

Ladder106 said: ↑

Coming from that Hayabusa background has certainly tainted your judgement.

The back pad only has to be attached to the leading edge of the top case.

Sorry to disappoint, but here is no way the TA will accelerate hard enough to make the padding over the top necessary......even if Robin's spine is that flexible.

Oh....where'd'ja get the shiny tape?
Click to expand...

Hahaha! I have not revealed my HP upgrades to this new speed demon. Can't have that thing flapping in the wind, may tear the fabric to pieces.

Now as for the shiny tape you ask...simple aluminum HVAC tape, not the fiber tape commonly used, but the expensive "top shelf ($7.99/roll)" solid metal tape that you find at Home Depot. Nothing but the best for this ride.

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Show us your TransAlp modifications!

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Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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thepoddo Adventurer

Royce Cochran was 2bold2getold

Bonnie & Clyde Wishing I was riding RTW

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Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

KilgoreTrout adventure flyfisher

Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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Dr E Chasing after theory

Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

Dr E Chasing after theory

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Show us your TransAlp modifications!

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Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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Royce Cochran was 2bold2getold

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Ladder106 It's a short cut, really

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