The Yamaha TW200 Thread...

If you can't find a used one and won't buy new, making your own switch work is cheap and easy. You can find other ignition switches that will work fine, but you'll probably lose the steering lock, and getting it to fit in place is the pain of it.

I'm just guessing, but old Honda tumblers were pretty compact and probably go cheap on eBay. I'd see if they use the same amount of wires and give one a try, if you're wanting an actual keyed ignition. I'd lean towards some sturdy toggle switches with a hidden kill. There's plenty of inline kill switches for bikes out there. Or get yourself a racing switch with a lanyard if you wanna be cool.

And yeah, a new key is probably smartest.

I took the info on the ignition switch and my title (for proof of ownership and the VIN) to the local Yamaha shop and they ordered a new key for me.

Works perfect and was less $ than having a locksmith cut a new key.

Thanks to all. I did find an inexpensive Emgo generic lock at MSS. It looks like it will do the trick for under $15. I'll have to work out a mount for it but that won't be too hard.

I also found an XT350 replica lock on e-bay but t has a different PN. I queried the seller but nothing back yet

I did call my local dealer - a mere 140 miles away - and they told me that they could not get a key based on the VIN, I would need the number off the cylinder, Mine has no number. I might try the dealer in Hermosillo. Mexicans are more flexible some times.

Anyone know if the gas cap lock is normally keyed the same as the ignition on a '97? That may point me towards having a key made instead of having to replace the cap as well.

Anyone have an extra set of plastics they'd like to sell?

Also, the rectangle cluster that contains the neutral light and other gauges?

PM me if you have either that you'd like to sell, thanks gents!

The ignition, gas cap and helmet lock are keyed the same. The ignition switch is easily removed, but the gas cap and helmet locks can be considerably less so. Having a locksmith make new keys off the ignition switch will likely work out cheapest in the long run if you have no luck ordering by VIN.

Getting a nail in you tire aways sucks, But after getting a nail in my Maxxis im ready to .
This thing was such a PITA to mount, now I have to do it again.
I should have taken a picture of the railroad spike I pulled outta the damn thing.
Sorry, just had to bitch and moan a little....Ill wash the sand out of my vagina while Im waiting for my new tube to arrive.

No need to apologize Doc....WE understand!.

Hey all. I just recently picked up a pair of banger Tdubs from a fellow inmate here. They're pretty rough and need some work, but I can't wait to ride one of these things! This one is primarily a parts bike


This other one was a runner but sat outside for quite a while. I'm hoping a quick carb clean will get it to at least start up again.

I'm only a couple years into riding and I've never done dirt, so I'm really anxious to learn.

Working on getting key blanks now., I live in northern Sonora, Mexico so I have to take the cylinder to Arizona to get the right blank. I have a good lock smith here who can make the key for me.

Thanks

see post #17...$11 shipped key blanks...this is where i got mine from as well...
http://tw200forum.com/index.php?/topic/5096-keys/page__p__49330__hl__blank__fromsearch__1#entry49330

http://www.motorcyclekeys.com/blanks6.html

Yamaha AP, BP, CP, DP, EP & FP - $7.00 each The key blank is determined by the letter at the beginning of the key code (on the original key), which will be an A, B, C, D, E or F followed by five numbers (example: C32010).

got it cut at ace hardware for free and it worked perfect...had them do a chip key for my g/f's car and that worked perfect too and so much cheaper than getting it done at a dealer

Thanks for the links but I don't have the original key or the code and the dealer in AZ told me to bring in the bike (not possible) or the cylinder (on my desk at the moment) to fit the blank. He said they can't tell from the VIN. I checked the web sites and there is no magic to determining the correct blank, you have to have the code. So the cylinder will cross the border back to the USA for the day next week.

This has been such a long drawn out process to get the bike from Colorado to Sonora (I bought it in April) but I can see the bike running soon.

sorry i didn't your post on the previous page...yea i don't think you will have much luck with the VIN...they will probably have to take the ignition apart and then order the blank based on that...there are 6 possible blanks...i'm no locksmith but could you go to a place that has iilco keys and buy one of each of the following keys and try sticking each of them into one of the locks (i suggest the helmet lock) and just not twist them to determine which blank it is?...then just return the ones that don't fit?...the problem is that C & E are similar and D & F are similar...the center groove in the C & D keys is wider than the E & F keys...either way you would still need a locksmith to make the key so you may as well just have them do it

yh46 x120
yh47 x119
yh48 x117
yh49 x118
yh50
yh51



left is the wrong blank, middle is the correct blank and right is the original



left is original and right is new key

i was wondering what the rubber band wrap around the rear brake drum is for and is it needed? is it to keep the squeeks down or something?seems like the rear drum would cool faster without it.

My 09 has it also?.

They all have them. My best guess is also that they were there to dampen harmonics, and I agree that they don't exactly aid in heat transfer..

Hey Lirzd: Been lookin for the 49 state oil coolers for the TW.....are they out yet?.Even looked on the TW forum?.If so, what's the $$$$. TIA

Never had reason to have my rear brakes apart,could it possibly be some sort of water seal?(1980's style?).

i took mine off to change the drum and i think it might be for safety? the drum gets so hot maybe to keep from burning your hands or something?

I think I'm going to remove my powermadd brush guards and install Tusk D-flex guards,the only problem is.....I don't know if the OEM bars will accomodate them?....on the inside mount towards the speedo area,not the bar end area?.Any ideas?.

I installed a set of Tusk D-flex guards on my wife's TW200....no problems.