DR750 & DR800 owners thread

For Bearings....

I have the standard stuff available locally. They are: NTN 32005X (for top) and Timken 32006X (for bottom).

I thought these were correct based on looking at the CMNSL site. But the bottom one on CMNSL looks a little different in that it appears to have some form of cover on the top side showing and a slight flange on the top side. Am I seeing things?

I checked the local shops and they say these all are standard.

Is what I have going to work? Or cause problems?

Thanks, Rob

OK...that was funny.

You actually had me believing for a few moments....until I read the last sentence.

Thanks for the laugh. Hopefully by the time you get here for a visit I'll have either the 750 or 800 to loan you.

Well the 91 model dr 800 i bought is striped bare the motor is in the shop for a full rebuild the frame is off to get powder coated and the tank covers are on the way. But i need some help has anyone put some 48mm white power forks on their bike i slide them in place and they look like they fit just have to match up some bearings but it can"t be that easy what have i missed.

Check turn angle. 48 mm forks seriously mess up turn radius. One of my friends installed those on his DR, and that what he got. Apart from that everything else was walk in the park.
This is why back then I went for 50mm rwu WP Extremes. Plust Extremes provide more "plush" ride without being too soft.

Hey Robmoto,
I really like your bike and I would like to do the same with my bike. Can you tell me whitch parts you've been using.
Are this parts from a DR 650 RE? If yes, do they fit without any problems or is a modification needed?
Thanks for your help

Gents i ask a favour of you.
My engine seems to have developed a noise and i want ye to listen to it
Was after a hard spin there a couple months back i noticed it before shutting down. Its coming from the bottom lhs front of the motor and can only be heard at idle, but there is maybe a wee bit more vibes from the lhs peg.

Bike still runs like it always did and my mates are telling me to stfu its not knocking and ride it, but im on the fence with a lean towards big end is going?? Tbh i havnt a clue as im a chassis and servicing guy, this is beyond my pay grade so Rob, Lars, Blue, and Zappa and anyone else in the know comb the wax out of the shell likes and have a listen to the old girl for is willya?


http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/columandester/?action=view&current=1-12.mp4
http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/columandester/?action=view&current=2-10.mp4
http://s982.photobucket.com/albums/ae301/columandester/?action=view&current=3-9.mp4
Il be bringing it to my mechanic and most likely removing the motor and having him 'fix it'. Any advise on what to get him to check first before ripping the bast*ard out?

Ps, changed oil and filter and tensioned the balncer chain but its still there. Vlaves were set 1000 miles ago post rebuild but the valves/seats were cut so may need doing again.

Hello sad punk,
as my PC and my internet-connection are still from the stone-age (loading films can take hours!) I didn't listen to your sound-files, sorry for that.
As you mentioned the sound being there from now to then: is it a bit 'rrrumbling'? And as you changed your engine-oil, did you have a look at the oil-filter at the crankcase's bottom?
That sound described above has been the sound I heard on mine and looking into that low oil-filter I found pieces of a bearing-cage. So this years biking-season is done for me and Resi (Lars) will get some work to do ...
I hope, you've got a more simple reason like a rattling drive-chain wheel or something as easy to fix like that!!!
Kind regards and good luck, Bambi

Hiya Bambi
No swarf or anything grizzly in the sump screen area thank god. The oil i use is silkolene 10/40 semi.
Ive had some suggestions based on my description of the noise that it could be a number of things...
A cam chain sprocket out of true...
Broken tensioner spring...
Big end bearings/conrod....
Crank shaft run off...

I was at the caponord meeting in Wales and Dave and Paddy from the drbig.info site attended and gave me some advise based on my description.
I have a basic understanding of what these are but not a working knowledge so a mechanic will be doing the reair work. Iam tempted to just buy a new crankshaft (+500 euro) and have done with it but where do you stop, bearings, chains, tensioners etc etc. I want it fixed and am commited (or should be commited) to spend as much as needed to have her right as i love riding it on my back roads where i live.
Either way i will be upgrading the cct with the revised one and maybe buying Hesslers stronger cct spring. Shame Lars isint more local i would love to have him fix it
Anywho thanks for the input and shout your opinion if and when you get a chance to hear the files.

Hello everybody.... just checking in
I'm with Sierra Thumper, fuel injection rules
I'm still enjoying the Beemer, I adjusted my chain... once in over 5000ks and checked the oil and tyre pressures

Still miss the Big a little though

This sounds exactly like mine when CCT spring broke down. Took about 3 days of intense riding for CCT to back off and let chain jump.
Inspecting CCT spring takes 10 minutes - do it for peace of mind.

Right that sounds pretty conclusive Blue. Im guessing thats 10mins to check the spring once the heads off or do you mean pull the cam cover and check cam chain tension?
I think i read that the head can be removed with the engine in situ, is this possible?? Fixing this would be a hell of a lot cheaper and 'easier' than having to splity the cases.
Cheers Blue il deffo be upgradinbg it as i was pissed i didnt when having it rebuilt when i learnt it was a known weak point.

My SR43 had exactly the same sound.
CCT was ok but the camchain guides were totally worn out.
Replaced the guides and all nice and quiet again. I did manage to change the guides without removing the engine from the frame. With a bit of fiddling you can get the head off but its not possible to get the barrel of as part of the frame gets in the way. Only downside here is you cant change the base gasket. I was lucky and had no leaks with the original base gasket when reassembled.. You will need to make a small holding tool for the CCT once its wound back in during assembly. See the manual for details on this.

On the upside it wont be the Camshaft sprocket as this is well located on the camshaft so wont move as long as the bolts are still tight.
I have heard of a few CCT springs breaking but my engine has about 140,000+ miles on it and the spring is fine.

The only other option could be the starter ring gear rattling, mine is quite loose probably due to its age and high mileage but I don't have any knocking now the guides have been replaced.
My SR43 has a manual decomp fitted rather than the auto decomp it should have and I always stop the engine with a light touch on the decomp lever rather than use the kill switch. I do this to prevent the engine kicking back and destroying the starter motor and starter ring gear.


MLC

Right so engine is coming out then. Think il order guides and a cct and spring from Hessler.
Thanks man!

Colum to check the tension on the cam chain ,I would remove the left side side cover and with a torch have a look at the part of the sprocket facing the rear of the motor and up towards the cam chain guides , I know you carn,t see up there much and stick your finger up in there and see if the chain is tight or loose you can see the chain just before the bottom of the cog allso and see if you can wobble it easy if so the tensioner is broken or the guide is broken .
I would rather do this than stick a small blade screw driver in the tensioner hole to see if there was tension on the spring
Allso removing the side cover allows you to check if the starter clutch is still running free and check the tightness of ballancer chain sprockets ,allso the flywheel bolt.
With the side cover off allso grab hold of the fly wheel rotor and feel for play in the big end and listen carefully, now this can be tricky because you may get a slight clunck from the other side of the motor from the clutch baket cogs and the small crankshaft one.
Have you got any loose tools in that front tool box . just checking.
Allso it sounds rough at idle to me and idleing too slow was the motor cold .
Does it make the same noise when hot or cold or worse when hot you could try 10w50 and see if it quietens it a bit if so you know its worn somewhere.
What I would like to know is how many miles has the bike done in total

Colum,

just remove the alternators cover. If the timing chain is as loose as shown on the pic below: Just the right time to check/change the tensioner spring.



It's a honour for me to know your trust in my skills

On the picture is the slacky chain I discovered on a saturday around midday when checking balancer chain.
Time schedule was like:
13:00 "Uh-oh"
13:45 engine on the bench, beginning of disassemble top end for spring change
19:00 engine running w/o fuel tanks mounted.

The noise in your videos sound like a loose balancer or timing chain, loose, weak or broken tensioner spring, eventually chain slacking on the guides. It's just a 10 minutes job removing both side covers to check about springs and bearing cages.
Check on clutch cover the sealing on the backside of the oilfilter housing: If this tiny seal is worn the crank won't get proper oil, causing a worn pivot / pivot bearing.

Cheers
Lars

Arrgh!! Have to head to work lads will respond asap when i get home thanks a mill for the responses! Looks like i will be getting the cct done so!

Werarju,
when I bought the bike most of the mods was allready done I basically just kept throwing money at it as it was really stuffed and had changed hands a few times from the guy that originaly did the hard yards with it.
tank seat rear guard and side covers are xt yamaha 600
WR 450 headlight and blinkers
Ducati monster 600 wheels and brakes brembo
DRC tailight
WP extreme KTM forks and triple clamps, front guard.
These are the main parts that make up the look of the bike, but many other things allso have been modded to get the desired outcome.

Resi spent 10 years with a NASCAR pit crew.

hmmm.. i´m afraid that single cylinder a no more mady by suzuki (next 20 years ;-)
i know the quad engine.. and i was thinking about merry the lta cylinder/head to the dr big gearbox...


based on the pics of the crazy tuning v-strom - looks like a ktm ? suzuki bastard i think a lightweight vstom with a real duck nose and V2 is possible
of course for the real dual sport - on AND offroad riding

give bmw more time - the dual charakter of the gs is loosing .. and a v-strom dualsport can get friends ;-) .....

Bump for some additional input to get the right stuff. Thanks, Rob