Got a new set of fork springs to better match the big tank and HID lights. After watching a couple Slavens videos I don't see why I wouldn't just pull the handlebars off and pop the springs in on the bike. Am I overlooking something?
Nope, just keep a hand on the damper rod so it doesn't get out of reach. You will want to remove the front wheel to make things a bit easier.
Can someone explain to me how the headlight works? When I first start the bike the parking light is on but then when I get out riding the headlight is on. Is this thing connected to speed-o or something? Baffled
Man i want me one of these.....this has been a fun thread to peruse...I need to quit before I find myself at a KTM dealership!
I have a 12" xc-w 500. My light has a switch, on or off no hi-low. I don't have to run with it. If the switch is on the light doesn't come on unless the engine is running. Sicass makes some options.
My 2013 XC-W boiled one day on a slow tight climb at 80F. Not acceptable. Here is what i did: I removed the louvered plastic rad guards. Installed Flatland Racing radiator guards. Replaced the crap radiator fluid with Engine Ice. Installed an overflow tank for the rad fluid. Just returned from 3 days of climbing around in Montana in the same temps as above. The fan was running regularly on climbs but the fluid did not get as hot. The fluid never made the boiling noise. There was fluid passing into the catch bottle and being drawn back into the radiator on a regular basis. I am satisfied with the fix.
Stock headlight does not work very well, if at all, on mine either,. Even with the switch on. The bulby is fine, lights right up when hoooked up direct to a battery. Me thinky these things are just sucky
Buy the aftermarket bulb from Sicass. http://sicassracing.com/store/bulbs/halogen/45_40w_s2_halogen_ktm_upgrade_bulb
I installed mine up front on the outside edge of the right radiator tucked between the plastic radiator shroud and the radiator guard. It is tie wrapped to the rad guard with three tie wraps. It makes for a super easy install as all you do is run your tubing from the top of the right radiator, around the front and up to the bottom of the tank keeping the tube inside the rad guard. Then run out of the top to the catchment tank to the plastic fitting in the frame where the fuel overflow hose went. Mine worked really well this trip. didnt budge.
I assume on the 500XCW there is no way to bring the idle down a little without going into the KTM dealership and having them check your TPS and seeing if its where it should be...right? My 500 idles faster than any other bike i have owned but its not outrageous. If i could, i would lower it. Are others finding their XCWs idle a little high? Thanks.
Really? Like i said my bulb works, just not in the stock housing. I'd be a happy camper if this actually works, much cheaper than an entire new assembly. Anybody else had this work for them? Thanks!!
Idle adjust is on the side of the TB. It should idle higher than any carb'd dirtbike you have ever owned, the FI likes it that way. Just ignore it and eventually it will become the new normal to you.
You all are right. It's the bulb contact. I took the headlight assembly apart and bent the bulb contacts toward the bulb for better contact. With a loose connection there is increased resistance that bulbs don't like. I'll keep an eye on it but think it will help. Next I'm going to figure out the high/low control and post pics. It's really not needed but if I have a switch that can control something I want it to work. I have issues.
Plated my XC-W 500 yesterday. The Sicass kit was almost a perfect plug and play with the exception of the rear brake light wiring. I have the Rekluse left hand rear brake so I mounted the switch at the master cylinder. I had to lengthen the wire just a bit to have it fit. Sicass offered to make me a custom wire for the same price, I didn't want to wait. I even ordered the Sicass key set up.
