Yes, contrary to what you might read in other ADVRider threads, all switching requlators have some quiescent (no load) power drain. TAPP Lite draws 8mA (.008A) which isn't much so unless your bike sits for a long time, it won't drain the battery. TAPP 2.1A with its MOSFET switcher draws a whopping 35mA and will kick the snot out of all but the biggest touring bike batteries in a few days. We recommend connecting the TAPP 2.1A family of USB power ports to a switched circuit like an accessory or taillight circuit. We provide one of those triple-trick PosiTaps to make the connection very easy. Hope this helps. -Shov
Sure does, thanks! Great product, I own 4 of them, but I had 2 dead batteries and had to ask... Will re-wire them to switched hot wires, much grass! Thanks CA Stu
The most common problem is reversed polarity. TAPP is protected against reversed polarity. It won't hurt the TAPP it just won't work. Is it located where you can temporarily connect it directly to the battery to see if it works? If that doesn't help send us an email (address on "support" tab of webpage) & we'll see what we can sort out.
Hi in the interest of keeping it simple, and avoiding the inherent power drain with the TAPP 2.1, would it make sense to put a small water proof switch right behind the USB head? I need to put one of these on my 500 exc. DW
Tapping (no pun inteneded) into a switched circuit like the taillight circuit is easier. We now supply one of those cool PosiTaps in each kit to make it easy. If you have an older kit that doesn't have a PosiTap let me know & we'll get one in the mail to you. That said, I did put a switch on the TAPP that powers my SPOT tracker on my 990 so it wouldn't turn off when shut down for fueling. I only shut it off at night or when the bike is going to sit for a while. I have a second TAPP (I get them for free) that is wired into ACC2 so it turns off with the ignitiion.
That's all good. Something else is going on here. Have you checked your source circuit to be sure it has power? If so, check on the far side of the fuse (TAPP side) to be sure you have power there.
Hi Shov, yes I would want to have a way to charge device's when the bike is off. It seemed like an easy way to switch off the power drain when the bike is sitting for days or a couple of weeks would be cool. At this point I don't have anything, but I will need to get some sort of USB charging point set up on my bike. I'll probably just get a low voltage TAPP, but would prefer to have the TAPP 2, just want some way to deal with the power drain issue on my small single cylinder moto's battery. So I was just curious what you thought about a switch. Thanks for your response. DW
[At this point I don't have anything, but I will need to get some sort of USB charging point set up on my bike. I'll probably just get a low voltage TAPP, but would prefer to have the TAPP 2, just want some way to deal with the power drain issue on my small single cylinder moto's battery. So I was just curious what you thought about a switch. Thanks for your response. DW[/QUOTE] Hi Shove I need and am ready to get a TAPP 2. Even if I have to figure out a switch myself. Do you have any switches that might be appropriate for this? DW
I'm interested in a few of these units Any discount for adv inmates? Should I just order from twisted throttle? Thanks
We do offer discount in the form of free shipping. That works out to 10% on TAPP, about 14% on TAPP Lite (when they become available again!) and a bunch on cables, especially the short ones. The problem is handling the discount with Google Wallet which is rather obtuse with coupons and stuff. Fortunately Google Wallet is going away and I mean completely away; Google is shutting it down. We are going to use PayPal which handles coupons. The conversion could be completed as soon as next week. Meanwhile send me a PM with what you want and we'll work out the price and issue a PayPal Invoice (PI)or take a phone order. the PI is a convenient way to pay as you don't need a PayPal account to pay. Any credit card will do. Of course you can use PayPal if you prefer. Thanks for your interest in our stuff. Cheers, -Shov
DW[/QUOTE] Hi Shove I need and am ready to get a TAPP 2. Even if I have to figure out a switch myself. Do you have any switches that might be appropriate for this? DW[/QUOTE] DW - First off sorry for the VERY late reply. I was on a ride to the Arctic Circle and Inuvik last month and some stuff just fell through the crack while I was gone. If it wasn't for the previous post from JackpotDuc I would have still missed your post I have a couple of toggle switches available that have waterproof boots for the toggle. They are a oversized for TAPP at 15A but would work. I'll have to look up what we paid for them but I'm sure they weren't very expensive. As a way of making amends for the tardy response I will throw one in at no charge with a TAPP order. Send me a PM and we'll work out what you need if you haven't already done something. Again, apologies for the late response. -Shov
Our Baryl 12VDC all-weather power ports are the same configuration barrel jacks as Gerbing and other popular heated clothing i.e. 5.5mm x 2.5mm. However, as our Baryl power ports are limited to 7.5A max we specifically warn users not to use them for heated clothing. I have always been curious how Gerbing can carry the 15A that they used to claim through a 5.5mm x 2.5mm coax barrel connector set. We had a heck of time finding a jack & plug set that would go to 7.5A. Most are rated to 5.0A max. I see that Gerbing has a recall on some heated jackets that are overheating the connectors causing burns. not sure what is behind this issue but I can guess. -Shov
This may have already been asked so forgive me. I have a Samsung Galaxy Note 2 and a 2013 BMW GSW. I currently have a powerlet to CIG lighter adapter run off my factory port on the dash and a generic cog lighter charger to my phone. Problem is my phone literally takes an entire day to charge without using GPS on it. Is the problem the charger I use, or the port on the dash? I don't know if simply buying one of your cables would do the trick or if I need to buy the Tapp set up or both? Further, Powerlet has a powerlet plug to micro USB cable supposedly that will do the trick, bit I can't figure out if its limited in output too which would not solve my problem. So, what do I need?
It's probably the usb cig adapter you use. Had the same problem and changed to another usb adapter and now the phone (Samsung Galaxy S2) is charging fast. I have this adapter http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B008CPO8KS/ it's one specially made for Android devices, but I think they are only available in Germany, but maybe you can order through amazon.de?
There's not anything wrong with your charger setup, it's Apple's fault! :huh Here's a link to a post I just put up regarding the smartphone slow charge rate issue and what we have done to work around it: http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=914577 Hope this help clarify the issue. Cheers, -Shov
Thanks. I already read that article which caused me more confusion actually. I've used two cig light chargers and both did the same thing. The one I tried recently is my wife's Motorola car charger. I know for a fact on her Droid it charges fast. I haven't tried it on my phone in a car but I assumed it would be the same, hence my curiosity if its my factory plug on my bike. I suppose a simple test would be to plug my phone with that charger into my car and see what happens. Assuming its just the cable, and I purchased one of your redband cables, I'd still need to convert the factory powerlet style port to USB. Would I need one of your pigtails for that or would a generic version work? It seems like $65or so for your pigtail and your redband cable is over the top to charge my phone. Not to mention more parts to lose. Do you offer a powerlet style plug to micro usb that I can use to charge my phone without the extra connection?
