Just about to remove engine alltogether for lower end inspection and cleaning, hopefully not too much rebuilding! Wiring harness soon to follow. The frame is probably gonna get repainted... And the tank & toolbox....
The fuse panel turned out very stout. No big deal. Well marked. This is a chrome cylinder with 49,000 miles on it. When is this going to fail????
That floppy, sloppy left shifter is an ornate transfer from the right side. Dissembling the shifter, footboard and kixtand will be an adventure. The exhaust was a PITA! Because of all the other bits. And it had become one with itself! How many miles on your bike? At 50,000 miles, I'm just gonna take it all down to inspection. The seals are shot and thus a messy rear drive. The OIL was clean so I'm thinking the gear train is ok. But she's a dirty girl.
So I pulled off this greasy bitch to day. The drive came off the shaft housing and there was 90wt that dribbled out. Not much and clean. Splines looked great and the whole thing spun smooth and tight. I'm parts cleansing now. Should there be lube in the drive shaft area? I somehow had the impression that the drive shaft assembly was "dry", unlike the BMW assembly. Or is this a seal issue. I'm going to replace seals, but hope to NOT crack the assembly open. And what's that little finned reservoir doing under the unit? I can't find it listed in the tavola .... What should I be checking for?
I'm usually paranoid about NOT having lube in that area. What is an inspection routine for this thing? Recommended service at 50,000 miles?
I just cleaned mine as good as I could with some simple green and qtips, changed the oil and ran it. What eventually killed it, And I did kill it, Was a po who must have broke it open. I was riding pretty hard one day And the rear locked up. It just ate itself. These things need to be shimmed in a dozen directions at the same time, well maybe like 3 or something. Someone shimmed mine up bad. I lubed mine, especially the driveshaft splines. Must of lubed the wheel splines too, I can't see any harm in doing it anyway. Just a little dab'll do ya. Look up charley cole of zydeco racing. He's like the only guy in the world with the rig to true one, And he's on Long Island. He set me up with a new unit That ran real nice. So yeah, wipe its ass and see If it's notchy. Or send it to charley if you want it top shelf.
As mtiberio says, no seals on the pinion shaft. Gear oil finds it's way up past them to (hopefully) lube the spliny bits. Still a good idea to grease the splines liberally during assembly and once in a while afterwards. Bloodweiser has given you some very good advice. Charley Cole will reshim and reseal the rear drive, thus ensuring that it won't leak and will live a long life. Not at all expensive for what you get (piece of mind). http://www.zydecoracing.com The "little finned reservoir" is a sump of sorts, #37 in the drawing above.
I just buttoned up the tranny on my T3, and have done a lot of reading on the subject lately. There is a staked nut on the fwd end of the output shaft which holds the bearing onto the shaft. Apparently, it's not uncommon for the nut to unstake itself and walk itself off the end of the shaft, and machine its way into the case. I bet thats what happened here, and the JB weld is how they fixed the case. Sure woulda been easy to weld it up while box was apart. I guess I'm assuming that the PO opened up the trans to fix the errant nut.
those look fine. at least identical to the ones I've seen, which all worked. any shavings in the bell housing?
Thanx Blood and Johnny, This is my first close look at the box. I really really really didn't want to bust open the case, but this comment:I guess I'm assuming that the PO opened up the trans to fix the errant nut. ....Is the resulting wisdom born of experience. With no experience myself , I'm gonna send it out to Charlie. It's already been put through the ringer once. Who knows what's going on in there?
