The Complete KLX250/KLX300 Long Term Review Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by bmwhd, Dec 2, 2005.

  1. IDRIDR

    IDRIDR Take me to the River

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    Where do we get a shiny new set of aftermarket shrouds?
  2. goofus

    goofus Swamp Yankee 4Life

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  3. IDRIDR

    IDRIDR Take me to the River

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  4. cjbiker

    cjbiker Nobody's Robot

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  5. Earthscape

    Earthscape Have ya got a helmut?

    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2006
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    550
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    Western Mass
    Yes, chapter 2, Fuel System, 'Service Fuel Level Inspection' and 'Service Fuel Level Adjustment'. This is one of those things that, done yourself, you will be sure it's right. If you bring it somewhere and they tell you they did it right, you will really never know. I suspect this is the source of a lot of fueling issues on KLXs.
  6. mvg2

    mvg2 Been here awhile

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    Jul 1, 2007
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    Pittsburgh, PA
    I was looking over a family members newly acquired 07 klx (neat bike!) and ran into a minor snag that I'm hoping someone will be able to shed some light on...

    One of the axle pinch bolts has been snapped off leaving only three nuts on the remaining three bolts. I unscrewed the snapped bolt out of the fork and checked out bike bandit for a replacement. Wrong!! Parts fiche just shows a part number for the axle pinch bolt nut, but not the bolt...

    Question:

    Any one have a part number (or a compatible bolt) for the bolt that the axle pinch nut threads onto?
  7. CaptCapsize

    CaptCapsize Long timer

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    You can buy studs at Ace Hardware, that is where I got mine. The studs are held in with Red Locktite. You must apply heat to soften the locktite to remove the broken stud. I used a heat gun to heat the end of the fork. I also wrapped a wet rag around the fork to prevent heating the fork oil and components. With vice grips to loosen the stud, it is not a bad job to DIY, Get a torque wrench for future pinch bolt tightening. Check the other studs. The PO of my 2007 had stretched two studs almost to the breaking point.
  8. djvx

    djvx Ride Safe!

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    aye aye captain welcome aboard (odometer 1) 1st quote is a helpful one!
  9. djvx

    djvx Ride Safe!

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    I prefer the "cover the exhaust hole" when cranking...thats after the shake method of course. The slow pull choke technique hasn't worked for me and the "empty the bowl" is too much of a PITA. Ive fired mine up in the low 20's.
  10. IDRIDR

    IDRIDR Take me to the River

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    ^ But have you tried a vacuum on the exhaust?
  11. kbuckey

    kbuckey Long timer Super Supporter

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    I must be doing something wrong. I turn the gas on, pull out the choke, turn the key and it starts. Maybe living at 7700 feet helps. Dunno.
  12. total_n00b

    total_n00b Bits. Bytes. Bikes.

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    This also works for me at ~200 feet.
  13. griffo1962

    griffo1962 Long timer

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    me to at SL
  14. Valkiera

    Valkiera Adventurer

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    Western Washington
    As long as it's above 30, it works for me at 600'. Below 30 she needs some coaxing.
  15. Earthscape

    Earthscape Have ya got a helmut?

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    Wow, I find usually I have to hit the starter button after turning the key, but otherwise, it's as easy as you describe... :rofl
  16. Shwafish

    Shwafish Adventurer

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    WNC
    I was thinking the exact same thing. Maybe we missed an upgrade. :evil
  17. TinMan207

    TinMan207 Most often a lurker... Supporter

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    There has been a lot of conversation of late about this. I do not know how "wide spread" this issue is but if you google "KLX Cold start" I'm sure you will find many possible solutions.

    I have a pretty good connection with my local dealer and when MY KLX wouldn't start I started asking the same questions.

    Kawasaki knows that SOME of the KLX's don't start when it's cold out. Since they can not sanction modifying the carb's due to Emission standards, their "Fix" is to modify the Exhaust Cam Compression release tab. Some have specified a given amount (.020" iirc), but the information I was given seems a little more precise. They told my buddy at the dealer to shave enough off to get to a compression rate of 95psi (135psi cold). Now, I am no mechanic, so I have no idea if this is a big project or not. I Do know that it seemed a LOT easier to modify the started jet!

    The Starter jet is not removable so it must be drilled. Get a #77 dill bit and open the the hole in the starter jet being very careful to get all the metal shavings out of the carb before you buttoning it back up. The process took about about an hour from start to finish with a competent mechanic - not me.

    It is well documented by others (EmmBeeDee has a good one iirc). Here in Maine it has been well below freezing in the past week or so and my KLX has started every time I have asked it to. Give it the "Choke", turn the key to on, hit the magic button, let it warm up a bit, take the choke off and ride it.

    ymmv
  18. kbuckey

    kbuckey Long timer Super Supporter

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    I suppose I should have added "and it starts upon hitting the starter button." But then I did think this group was smart enough to figure that out! Perhaps I erred in that assumption.... :lol3
  19. 250senuf

    250senuf Long timer

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    Reasonable assumption on your part but with this crowd .... :evil

    You know about assume don't you; it makes an ass out of you and me. An oldey that you may have heard before.
  20. kbuckey

    kbuckey Long timer Super Supporter

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    Pretty much once a week in my 25 years in the Army.... [OK, OK, I lied, 24 years, 9 months and 24 days....]