Another R80gls build, just slower

Ghilli · Sep 20, 2012

Hi Everyone

I've allready started the rebuild of my 1981 R80g/s, but with the amout of hours I've allready put in I feel I should share some of it, even if it is only to see my own photos.

So here goes, this was my g/s in one piece 2 years back, it is in about 200 pieces right now.

I needed to replace the oil pump seal as it started to leak too much, wich I left as it is quite a big job. So in the process of removing the gearbox I decided I might as well do the whole thing (complete motorcycle I mean), and an hour after my well thought trough plan...

jellycow · Sep 20, 2012

Now, that's a way to enter Advrider!
Start looks good, can't wait to see the next steps.

Clay Spinner · Sep 20, 2012

Nice start! Take lots of photos... I@ll be doing the same thing soon enough.

scalpel · Sep 20, 2012

Ghilli fortunately you are an engineer!!!

Ghilli · Sep 21, 2012

Even though I am one I still needed to overcome my three fears:

-Removing the gearbox
-Disconnecting every single wire and cable
-Removing the barrels and pistons
-Welding to the frame

Ok four

Obviously I had to wash it in the kitchen.

scalpel · Sep 21, 2012

Ghilli daar is baie ouens in die Kaap wat jou kan help raam versterk. Goeie welders. There is a few guys in Cape Town that can help you with frame welding. With good experience. Send me a pm for more details. Stuur groete vir Koos. Send regards to your brother.

scalpel · Sep 21, 2012

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?board=132.0

Local South African site.

Ghilli · Sep 25, 2012

Re-enforcing the frame looks really nice, but its too late for me now. I just fixed up the original frame and made a center stand out of three retired ones. Got that powder coated with a few other parts, and it came out really well, relatively cheap too.

This is the subframe with a piece torn out that I repaired.

I attached a new battery mount to the frame.

And repaired the damage the center stand made, those plugs are important.

Set up the frame to see if everything fits, before I need to bend any coated finished parts.

And here is my center stand made from old dead ones.

Ghilli · Sep 27, 2012

Next up was the driveshaft, I took the original and a slightly less worn out shaft and swapped the bell housing. This was probably unnecessary, but the road going thrust adapter definitely had less wear than the one one the g/s.

The thrust adapter on the g/s lost that totally round profile and "sharpens" when it wears.

This called for some high tech tools, so I made me a high tech tool.

Ghilli · Oct 1, 2012

Not a lot of photos, but I wanted to try and do DIY nickel plating on all the bolts that are "special". All the other standard bolts will be replaced by new stainless steel bolts.

The plating came out very nice, I hope its durable as well. These are the plated rear shock bolts, the photobomb bolt on the left is a new stainless bolt, the unpolished plated bolts shines more than brand new bolts. I made those small spacers to reduce the hole size compared to the bolt, there was quite allot of play on the rear bolts.

This is a spacer inside the bolt hole on the swing arm.

Ghilli · Oct 1, 2012

Here's a cool photo for no reason whatsoever.

This actually gives you a good idea of areas to avoid when installing a wiring harness, there really isn't enough space to just route it anywhere.

Ghilli · Oct 2, 2012

Bad news time, I've seen this allot on the internot, now I have one as well.

The hub is out of its wear limit and looks like someone forced it off and started a nice crack, I was riding like this without knowing I was about 10 seconds away from death all the time.

Clay Spinner · Oct 2, 2012

Nice post... just a question... how does one measure the wear limit?

goatroper · Oct 2, 2012

Ghilli said: ↑

[

Obviously I had to wash it in the kitchen.
Click to expand...

You know about the thrust washers on the crank, yes?

Ghilli · Oct 2, 2012

Clay Spinner said: ↑

Nice post... just a question... how does one measure the wear limit?
Click to expand...

In the back of the manual it says that the max permitted wear on the drum is 201.5mm, that is the inner diameter of the hub which I measured with a large vernier. If you look closely you can see its a steel band that is cast inside the aluminium hub.

Only problem is, this is the data for a 4 bolt hub and not the older 3 bolt, not sure if it is the same for both models.

Ghilli · Oct 2, 2012

goatroper said: ↑

You know about the thrust washers on the crank, yes?
Click to expand...

Aah yes, thanks, but I almost just took it apart before I [FONT=&quot]accidentally [/FONT]read about it.

I took a few spacers the same thickness as the ring gear and screwed back the original bolts, this keeps the front and back clear without the worries of the thrust washers slipping out. But to put the spacers in, I had to block the crank from the front.

Ghilli · Oct 3, 2012

Now for the some cool stuff, or not, can't decide.

I took my valve heads to an engineering workshop where they told me all four my valves needs to be replaced:eek1, that hurts allot. I did some research and it turned out that the custom stainless steel valves the engineering shop makes would cost the same as ordering new ones online, and the BMW dealer was just too expensive. So I thought the stainless valves would be a nice thing to do.

If you cant tell that the outside fins are ceramic coated, its a good thing, trying to keep the look original. The coating is a ceramic heat dissipating one and helps with increase heat transfer and corrosion.

Clay Spinner · Oct 3, 2012

Ghilli said: ↑

In the back of the manual it says that the max permitted wear on the drum is 201.5mm, that is the inner diameter of the hub which I measured with a large vernier. If you look closely you can see its a steel band that is cast inside the aluminium hub.

Only problem is, this is the data for a 4 bolt hub and not the older 3 bolt, not sure if it is the same for both models.
Click to expand...

Ah.. i'll have a look in my clymer... I bought it and haven't even opened it yet! My rear hub on the g/s is rubbish... no real rear brake though the ST feels very good.

Ghilli · Oct 8, 2012

Here are some photos of the three stages of piston, they are on the lower side of their wear limit with the barrels, but if it took 30 years to get to that point I am more than happy to put them back in. If they reach the point where they need to be replaced, I would definitely not go stock, I would upgrade to the 1000cc conversion. But that's a lot of maaanie.

Ghilli · Oct 9, 2012

The barrels and tubes are both coated with a ceramic coating. These parts take a beating from the road, so putting something durable on them makes sense to me.

These are the coated and finished barrels ready for assembly.

Two of the tubes has a lot of pitting I presume from sand and stuff from the front wheel, they seem to be steel so not coating them was not an option.

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