the DR650 thread

I can't quite tell in the pic... Is that the standard ball mount on the handlebar like this ?

http://www.dualsportarmory.com/product_details.php?category_id=176&item_id=708

I was looking at my bike this AM and wondering how to squeeze in the mounts.

Oh wait... I'm an idiot. You're just using this in the spot where the stock mirror mounts, right?

http://www.dualsportarmory.com/product_details.php?category_id=176&item_id=706

The cam chain tensioner gasket is a common oil leak point, and you'd be surprised how much of the engine gets a light film of oil when the CCT gasket fails. Must be blown around by the wind when riding. My DR had similar "coverage" as yours, and I replaced the rocker cover o-rings before figuring out that it was the CCT (thanks to this thread). I didn't use an OEM gasket (since it would likely fail anyway) -- just Permatex Ultra Black. The hardest part was scraping off the old gasket.

That's for GB,Aussie,NZ,Sth African,Japanese and Indian beer only......you Yanks have
too many loose guns,so alcohol should be banned!

Chromesux, eakins, ER70S-2, sagebrushocean...
Thanks so much guys. I know the DR is an anvil. That's why it's the perfect bike for me. 'Cause I suck at this stuff. But I'm trying. Thanks for taking the time. I love this board for how we all try to help each other. I seriously couldn't put a dollar amount on how valuable the advice I've gotten so far has been to me!

Hello.

I am hoping that there is a simple answer to this, but my google-fu is not strong today. Been looking for over an hour. So here is my issue.

I have stock bars. I want to replace them, while at the same time installing HDB handguards etc. I would like 1 1/8 bars, but cannot figure out how much of a pain in the ass it will be to put all the stock controls back on to a 1 1/8 bar. I would like to get a ProTaper contour bar. I know that some bars are 1 1/8 at the middle, and taper down on the ends to fit stock controls.

SO. If I order a contour bar (1 1/8) from Paul, will I be fuckered when I try to put my stock controls on? If so is there an easy way to adapt controls?

I am sure this has been addressed someplace, I appreciate your patience.

BEN

All 1-1/8 bars do this. If they did not taper nobody could install them.

Thank you. This would explain why this is a non-issue on the internet.

BEN

I'm just the opposite. One of the things I found handy about them is that because you can reposition them so easily on the fly that if I'm going over varying terrain where I might be sitting and standing equally often, I'll position one so that I can see behind me while I'm standing and the other for rear vision while sitting. This came in pretty handy for me when a group I was riding with had radio/sand/mechnical troubles and we really needed to keep each other in sight. Even when we weren't having troubles, if I was in the lead and standing I found it pretty handy to be able to glance down occasionally to make sure I saw someone not too far behind me.

I tried three other variants of the motor traditional mirror and the doubletake are vastly superior in my opinion.

I just went through this. I had a hard time getting the choke thing on and ended up not using it. The clutch perch was also pretty tight but managed to get it all on there. HDB puts out a really great system. I'd order the bars from Paul as well and he will put the threaded inserts in for you. Saves you some PITA work there.

The orientation of the cylinders is pretty irrelevant - cross vs radial. Hydraulics aren't going to care about orientation, and the primary difference will be in the mechanical advantage of the user due to different leverages and forces. The primary differences are pivot length and bore size, and I'm pretty sure that retrofits from a bike with a cross-pump configuration with a shorter pivot length and larger bore would result in the exact same "feel" and braking power as these amazing new tech radial pump units. And, a retrofit would probably be 1/3 the cost.

I agree, I tried the stock , after market rectangular, a different folding design that was ok , but I prefer the Double Take. I have laid my DR down a few times since getting them and they have never failed to relocate themselves when it happens but they will still hold position when cruising down the road at ludicrius speed :eek1.

As mentioned ... Pro Taper bars "Taper" at the grip ends so controls fit on OK. What you DO need to be aware of is your Bark Busters. Make sure they are for 1-1/8 bars. Where they clamp sometimes is on the Fat area, sometimes more on the thinner area. It's nice to have hand guards with some adjustability built into design.
My cheapo TUSK hand guards are good in this way ... but aren't that strong compared to premium brands. But only $40 or so ... instead of $100.

When going to a Fat bar you probably will end up with a Riser/adapter to fit the 1 -1/8" clamp onto stock cradle (for a 7/8" bar). Make sense? I bought the Pro Taper adapter which provides about a one inch rise over stock. You can go higher if you want with other "risers".


Pro Tapers before Bark Busters installed. Everything fits.

Agreed. Bit like the 11 mm KTM/Brembo unit I fitted from the wreckers via eBay for $50. Well worth it, a definite improvement in feel and controllability, but no change in absolute power.

Tis a Galfer from Kientech; stops the DR like a champ...

Can someone tell me what function this bearing serves? This is the stator/generator cover......

For some background, this was a grenaded 1999 engine. I have replaced the bottom end and was forced to buy the stator cover new. The parts fiche listed this bearing and a clip (28 and 29 below) that fits in the cover itself in the hole where the starter shaft will reside. The inside diameter of the bearing is too small for the starter shaft to fit in. The old cover did not have the bearing installed, but it was also missing a few other things due to an attempted and failed repair. Help me solve this little mystery and it should be running again by the weekend.

Grifter - Did the adjustable Tusk handguard mounts fit your bars? I have tapered bars and the mounts won't fit around the "still tapering" section. They have mounts for larger bars but they don't have adjustment...plus it adds to the cost. I used some old large bar mounts I had laying around for the time being.

I like the adjustability of the standard Tusk mounts so I'll grind 'em out when I set time aside. I could use longer screws but the contact points 'tween the mount and the bar would be minimal.

I think it is the support bearing for the starter shaft and gear. Yes, you need it.

I think (and this is a bit of a guess) that it is something to do with the starter motor. It lines up with the starter motor so I would presume that it supports the pinion gear that is driven by the starter.

How is it going to support anything if the starter shaft is bigger on the outside diameter than the inside diameter of the bearing? It's either going to prevent the starter shaft from going in that slot on the cover, or it's going to run right up against the inside race of the bearing. This really isn't making much sense to me at the moment. The inside diameter of that bearing is just a hair under 12mm. The starter shaft is 14mm. Quite simply, it ain't gonna fit! I also just confirmed that the part numbers for a 1999 and 2000 are the same. Lists the bearing as 12x28x8.

Here's something that's a bit odd...the breakdown of the starter in the parts fiche shows that it has a bit of a tip....If the starter actually had that tip, and it was 12mm, the bearing would make perfect sense. In my case, the end of the starter is completely flat and ends at the splines...like so:






UPDATE: I just fitted the new bushing and starter clutch next the the starter shaft. The starter shaft doesn't even exceed the width of the clutch. My verdict is this bearing and clip are COMPLETELY unnecessary. Does anyone disagree?

The bearing only applies to early models. I think 96 and 97. Early models had a starter with a longer shaft that was machined to fit the bearing. Somewhere along the way Suzuki apparently decided it wasn't needed. Current models have a short starter shaft but the cover still has an empty pocket machined for the bearing.