Leaking between the petcock and tank and from the petcock itself. I replaced all gaskets and it still leaks. I tried to weld on a fuel bung and screwed it up. Back to square one. At least the CL175 has a threaded petcock. The CB has some god awful contraption.
Hello Durden Did you ever shine a timing light on the timing marks to check ignition timing? I rebuilt an old 79 CT 70 last year (ill try to post some pics) - I never got it running perfectly, as it would idle fine, then bog down when I drove, I would have to reach down and half choke it to get it to run properly. I know its probably to carb, but I rebuild that and tried to set it back to factory settings. Its always bugged me and I think i need a new project bike to take my mind off my previous defeats [/quote]
Hmm, good point, ive seen this before - can you give me the high level view on what to look for - or can you point me in the right direction - I wouldnt mind giving it a try.
I just learned about the CB 160 tank this weekend. My buddy had a leaking issue with a circular styled petcock. He ended up buying a rebuild kit and shimmed down the washer that fits between the petcock and tank. He had to shim because he didn't remove the previous washer that had broken down/disintegrated and it was causing leaking to the petcock. Good luck.
Sorry this took so long to reply to. Note: It's been years since I worked on one of these>> Find an inductive pickup timing light and clamp it on the spark plug wire (There should be an arrow on the pickup which aims towards the spark plug) and hook it to 12 volts. Remove the left engine cover , start the engine and shine the light at the flywheel. The light should be lighting up the "F" mark on the rotating flywheel and it should be aligned with the stationary mark on the engine. Unfortunatly I can't remember if that model has an advancer built into the flywheel or not. If it does there will be two more marks about 15-20 degrees clockwise of the "f" mark on the flywheel that will rotate to line up with the stationary mark on the engine case when you rev the engine. I hope you are running an air filter on this. Some models will not run correctly without one. What color is the spark plug when you pull it after running it with the choke on? Dave
Boy am I glad I found this site! I just picked up a '66 cb160 from a co-worker for $200. It's been sitting in his barn for 25 years. He says the bike ran great when he parked it, but the starter went out and the kicker was stripped so he lost interest. The bike is all there and should be a good project. This past week I went to work on the carbs and cleaned the points, changed oil & cleaned filter, new fuel lines & spark plugs and ground a keyway in the kicker shaft and lever & tapped in a key temporarily. (The tank is like new inside and didn't have to touch it!) A squirt of gas down each plug hole and 5 kicks & she was alive! Now the fun begins...
Hey Cowboy, Greetings from another lawyer turning wrenches for a hobby. Did you find that "C" where you expected it to be? I recently acquired a '65 for which I am attempting to research the title/registration. The frame number starts with "B160". I scraped all the paint off with a knife and still no "C". I am aware that the engine numbers begin with B160 but it is my understanding that the frame stamping should include a "C".
I just went through a bonded title ordeal last week to get my 160 on the road. What really helped me was a notarized bill of sale from the previous owner that had the vin and engine number listed on it. I also have a number of 160 frames and all the vin's begin with 'b', I don't recall ever seeing one with a c preceding it. Good luck.
I found the "C" where I expected it to be. This revelation that the C was not normally stamped on the 160s sheds a bit of light on something that made me curious: the "C" stamp is much shallower than the other letters and numbers on the VIN, almost as if it were stamped separately. (part of the reason that a run in the paint made it nearly invisible.) I'm guessing that someone may have stamped it later to make it match the title, which includes the "C" at the beginning of the VIN. Why the title would have included the "C" when the frame did not is a puzzle though. I'm curious, how many of the other CB160 owners here have titles that include the "C" in the printed VIN? Does anyone else have a CB160 that includes the "C" stamped on the steering head?
The guy I bought it from said the seat and handlebars are off an old Bridgestone. When he bought the bike in 69, the original owner had gutted the foam out of the original seat to look more like a racer(?!), and he had ape hangers on it! I will be making my own seat.
A request: Could one of you snap a photo showing how the ignition condenser is mounted to your CB160? Mine has a small rubber grommet on one of the wires, and I don't recall what the wire passed through, to require the grommet. I made lots of progress on my bike this weekend, finished up the engine rebuild, installed the engine in the bike, and generally reassembled it. I even managed to get it fired up and running. Sadly, I also broke the kickstart lever. I guess my luck is good though: I learned that Honda Trail 90s used the same lever, and I happened to have a spare one in my pile of Trail 90 parts. Now I'm ready to start painting the tin, and get this sweet little bike back on the road!
Here's a question for ya. I went to transfer the title and they said they need an engine serial number. I can't find it. Where would this be stamped??
Is it in that raised rectangle on the left side? Cuz it looks like it would be there but there's nothing. Hmmm...
I did a pertronix conversion on mine last weekend (CB175). I also ditched the stock coil for an aftermarket one I mounted in the horn location. The pertronix kit mounts on the points plate and removes the timing advance piece. Still not running yet because i couldn't get it timed and my carbs still have problems. I'll post pics once I'm done.