HighFive - WRR Athena Big Bore Project

Nice job! I replaced the piston in mine after 6,000 miles just for peace of mind. It didn't need it, hadn't worn through the anti friction coating, cylinder looked perfect. Now I'm thinking about doing the stroker crank this winter, could get interesting!

Good News: The Dynostar is fixed, and I'm back on schedule for this coming Friday.

Only negative is that its been so hot here.....very hot. And, now very humid too. Not good conditions for peak power output. Oh well, I'll make the best go of it I can. Start the countdown (again).

I've put 350 miles on the new rings now. Took it out for its first WOT run. Hot, humid, with some head wind, and she held 91 mph (gps) as long as I wanted....a full mile. I will say she definitely got there faster than before. And, I've got it tuned rich, for safety. My AFR is currently set for 12.5 at WOT. At least, it didn't seize so I can give it to the dyno operator now.....who's gonna wring her living neck.

HF

Well maybe the weather will help make up for that "extra work" you put in. Perhaps it will give a better comparison for just the big bore in relation to the past dynos.

:runstogaragetocheck




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:breathessighofrelief



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Just FYI guys, the best way to get the infernal tensioner to retract without drama is using this:



And to get it to engage you're going to have to use your hands to get some leverage and press one of these against the cam chain where it sits in front of the piston bore. It's REALLY HARD to press but at least you won't skip timing every time you turn over the engine and the autodecompression mechanism kicks the exhaust cam forward a few teeth.



I've done this job twice, not including many attempts doing it the wrong way.

Is that a scraper/chisel?

No, just a long screwdriver shot at a dramatic angle. It really is a PITA to get enough leverage in the small space to trigger the tensioner but much less painful than skipping timing a million times.

Yeah...I've tried to work that method out successfully, Motomind, but been unable. Do you push against the camchain or against the black plastic guide (screwdriver between camchain & guide)?

I know that would be the best (most logical) way, but I guess I wuss out before moving the tensioner shaft far enough to release the clip......afraid of screwing something up within the chain well.

How are you getting that "extra leverage"? In fact, how are you getting any leverage at all...? What are you "levering" against to pry the shaft back?

HF

I push directly against the cam chain.

I put the screwdriver down the cam chain tunnel so the tip resting against the cam chain right by the bore. Standing on the left side of the bike I put my left hand on the top of the handle and my right hand is wrapped around the grip. I then pull as hard as I can with my right hand while pushing with my left. Kinda like a canoe paddle I guess? It helps to yell loudly and put your back into it that that point.

It's really annoying but I'm not a strong or big guy so I'm sure some of you beefcakes could do it too.

Friday morning....temp is 81 deg F, and climbing fast. R-squared is strapped to the Dyno and ready to roll the drum.

I've taken a stroll to the local Diner for some breakfast. The drama....the suspense....the delays....will soon be over. Then whatever will I do? Oh my....

HF.

Stroker Kit.

And the result is.......................is.......................is..................


Headed to office to make a high quality scan of the chart.

HF

Get it all sorted out, then decide you want that new KTM !!
(sell me the little R2)

Drum roll please...............the results are in. And its surprisingly good, if I don't say so myself. Oops, I guess I said so.

Its kind of like this: :eek1 and and all rolled into one.

My WRR - Dyno 3 run.





This chart shows a comparison of my last run (Line 1), which would be Dyno 2, compared to the run made today (Line 2). For reference, my two previous Dyno runs can be reviewed at www.WRRdualsport.com. But, as a brief reminder, the Dyno 2 run was made with the stock cylinder, an FMF exhaust, an FMF fuel programmer, and K&N airfilter with the airbox door wide open. That run max'd out at 26.7 HP and 16 ft-lbs Torque with an ambient temperature of 50.9 degrees F. Following that run, I went home and created my "Ultimate Airbox Mod" to let her breathe better.

Today's Dyno 3 run included my Athena 290 big bore, FMF exhaust, Dynojet PowerCommander V fuel programmer, TwinAir foam filter, airbox door closed (with Ultimate Airbox Mod in place), and ambient temperature af 87.8 degrees F. This run max'd out at 32.3 HP and 20 ft-lbs of torque.

What's it all mean. Correcting for ambient temperature differences, I've gained about 25% more power and torque (or so). The exact numbers are:

HP: 26.7 to 32.3 yields 21% gain.....measured when conditions were 37 degrees hotter (and considerably more humid). The Dynostar operator said to add about 5% more value for comparable ambient conditions. That would yield 34 HP (27% gain).

Torque: 16 to 20 yields 25% gain. Adjusting 5% value for ambient temperature comparison yields 21 (31% gain).

No matter how you compare, slice, adjust, compensate, calibrate, these are simply fantastic results! My butt dyno already new things were good. I've been downplaying it a bit, as I hate to overstate or inflate. It simply is what it is, whatever may be.

To be certain, this is the exact same Dyno machine being used for all three of my dyno runs, in the exact same shop, with even the exact same Operator (Jordan) running the test each time. Turns out they didn't lose the hard-drive after all, when they broke down a couple weeks ago. They had a bad "load cell" which was not allowing them to re-calibrate. So, we've got as good a comparative run here as we could possible get, with the exception of the ambient temperature. A 37 degree difference is HUGE....especially when its pushing 90 degrees in the mid-south compared to dry cold winter. For those who may not know, normally aspirated engines (air breathing for all you yankees) run a lot stronger (produce more HP & Torque) in cold, dry air versus hot, wet air. Its the nature of the internal combustion engine.

Now, let's compare where I am versus where I started in the beginning. Dyno 1 run was made on the original stock motor with only a few basic mods (AIS removed, Airbox Flapper removed, & exup valve removed from stock pipe) as a baseline. Ballpark, those results yielded about 22 HP and 14 ft-lbs of Torque, if I remember correctly. So, let's see what I've gained from that.

HP: 22 to 33 yields 50% gain

Torque: 14 to 21 yields 50% gain

There is the bottom line.....end result. Read it and weep! Tears of joy....pure joy.

This bike is FINALLY running like I felt it should.....like I new it could. The power to weight ratio is significantly improved, making it feel more nimble. Crank the throttle past halfway, and she just rips! Wheelies effortlessly in first gear, without any use of the clutch.....just crank the throttle.

Its got much better passing speed, and pulls 6th gear uphill with no effort, in fact, it accelerates uphill in 6th easily. Now, to the downside, it has definitely gained some vibration....particularly in the bars. Not so noticeable elsewhere. Its still a very comfortable ride for me down the slab. Especially since it doesn't take as long.

She's a real hoot and I'm still madly in love with this bike, even after spending the last 10 months predominately on my new F800GS. Sorry guys, she's not for sale. Maybe not ever!

HF

Wow...over 300 views since I posted Dyno 3 last night, and not one single comment....? :huh

Kind of leaves you speechless, I guess.

HF

Thats because we are running to order our own 50% HP and Torque increase
Thanks High Five

I didn't get a look until 2am so I was fairly tired. I am thoroughly impressed. It looks to really give that extra little punch in the low rpms that's missing and makes the top end scream even more. I would say the non corrected numbers are probably a little more accurate of just bolting on the kit in the same conditions since you did get in and do some extra work on it. Still very impressive and something I'd consider once I become a more skilled rider or blow the engine. To think, I have even more to do now than just the exhaust, airbox mod, and programmer.

Overall -->

It's to see the end of the journey though.

Jealous was more what I was thinking.... Now all I need to do is upgrade my XT to a WR.