The CRF250L Owners thread

Maybe. I don't understand wiring well enough to say. But mine don't come on until i use them, as turn signals; only the headlight is on when i switch on the ignition switch. So i suppose that is a feature of the US version. I don't know whether mine (South Africa) is the Thailand version or AUS version or what. It does not have the charcoal canister for fumes - so far i know, that's always a US feature, only.

This gets lots of results from google...

site:advrider.com "CRF250L" (smog OR canister)

...although google doesn't work right for me because i've changed the setting for number of posts per page, so the google links take me to the wrong points.

Thanks you Cat!

I installed these last week and they are working great. You get about an additional inch of rise and they are great for standing.

I cut approximately 3/4" off of the ends to approximate the length of the OEM bars (pipe cutter). Just remove the hand controls and grips. Remove the old bars from the clamps and then slide the bars toward the clutch side. That will allow you to slip the throttle tube off of the right side without removing any cables.

Rotate the bars in the clamps to the -1 position mark on the bar.

As mentioned, use a dremel tool to remove the little metal nubs from the inside of the controls (I think there are 3 of them total). I jused electrical tape to give the controls a bit of bite on the new bar.

I just received my Cycra hand guards and will install those this weekend. I'll post some pics afterward. Send me a PM if you need any help.

Any pix without the pad? Not sure I am a big fan of the Pad.
I do have a gps that I mount to the stock bars, wonder if that is a possibility with these bars?
Thanks

Excellent!
Pix would be great, maybe some without the Pad
You might be getting a PM when I get ready to install.
Do they make a cross bar for these bars to mount a gps? Do you know?
Thanks

Has anyone had an issue with the clutch slipping when you jump on the gas with the clutch lever out (on a good traction surface like pavement)? I have adjusted the clutch free play twice and still sometimes hear the engine wind up faster than the bike speed.

I’m no expert but understand that the clutch uses a judder spring that is supposed to soften clutch engagement but can cause slip when more HP is applied than designed for. My bike is stock, I don’t have the stonkin HP that some of you are getting with your mods (I don’t even have the go-fast sticker mod).

Thanks

Yeah i wired the rear up and everything worked. then i wired up the front minus the one wire and the only thing that comes on now is the tail light and the headlight.. just scratching my head

saw on another forum someone had to use these to change 3wires for blinkers down to two.. didnt didnt want to add more wires it is tight up there the way it is.

i will give this a try: http://www.customled.com/products/magic_blinker/magic_blinker.htm

No slipping here. If anything, it seems "abrupt" at times, especially in the lower gears.

Also brand new here, have just been reading along happily and waiting for my chance to buy my own CRF250L. I just got the go ahead so I'm starting to check around...first quote I got from Lake City Powersports was $5627. When I asked if there was even a chance to get it for under $5,000 I was told "If I find a used one I'll let you know." The MSRP on this bike is $4,499 how in the hell do dealers get away with price gauging like this? Let me know what you find Alex and I'll keep looking myself. Hopefully we'll both get bikes without breaking the bank.

Here, it was $4,449, plus $300 "destination fee", then $150 "delivery fee", then $69 "misc. fee" (I think that one made it so I didn't have to deal with the DMV, well worth it). Then state tax $311.43, for a grand total of $5,279. If I crash, and burn this one, and survive, another one on order real soon.

Given that these things are getting hard to get due to their popularity, I'd say if you can find one, and then get the dealer to knock anything off, just grab it. $56xx... okay, say $5500 out the door (if that includes sales tax)... and go ride and enjoy it. Is it worth the frustration of going dealer to dealer over a couple hundred dollars? :)

The only "discounts" you might be able to get will be on dealer fees like "assembly" or "delivery" (not destination)... so really, best you're gonna do is maybe $100-200 off, IMO.

Re: Washington vs Oregon... wherever you register it depends on sales tax. If you live in Oregon, you can buy in Washington and still pay no sales tax. But if you buy it in Oregon and live in Washington, they'll hit you for sales tax when you register it... unless you can use an Oregon address and get Oregon plates.

Rob

Unless you are active duty military like I am. You can be stationed outside and buy outside of Washington state and pay no sales tax when you register. Unless the state you buy in charges you sales tax and purchase time. But to avoid that you can private party. I was about to buy in Oregon but they didn't come down in price so it was a better and easier deal to buy from ellensburg,wa then deal with a DMV visit. And saved me 200$ and having to deal with California expensive fees and there dmv sucks also

And before people complain about driving just to save 200$ I was already driving thru ellensburg twice while I am on leave this week

You're welcome. I saved you over $1,000. Do I get a "finder's fee?"

Spud

Hey save me some money and I'll...send you pictures of the money I saved...

Not that anyone cares but this is an experience that me and another potential buyer are going through in Seattle.

I-90 motorsports $5824
Lake City Powersports $5627
Ride Motorsports $5600
Everett Powersports $5757

Right after the first of the year, I ordered an FMF Q4 slip-on muffler for my 250L because I liked the idea of the weight savings and the nice look of the muffler and stainless midpipe. Well, after two different short jaunts around town on a couple of nice afternoons, I can now say that the Q4 is a touch too loud for an old guy like me. It's a shame because otherwise I really like the looks of it and it's a heck of a lot lighter than the stock muffler. So this afternoon, I put the stock muffler back on and took a spin around the block and I'm happy once again!Yep, quiet is good for me, but I just had to find out for myself and now I know I like that stock muffler better than I had thought! I'll probably put the Q4 up for sale in the Flea Market forum and maybe someone else can use it on their 250L.

Same impression here with the Q4, unbearably loud ...

But I made a dBkiller

L

not sure where but, I read something about an insert you can make to quiet it up a bit. Might be worth researching a bit.

Just a thought.

I read all I could on quieting down the Q4 but couldn't find anything that really looked like it would work withouth a lot of trouble.....and then who knows.....it might not be much quieter at that. I think I'll just move it on to someone else that can use it better than me.