Rallye navigation bracket photo thread

My plan is to have +/-trip 1 on the left, reset 1 top right. Bottom right is a bonus button, maybe used to reset/mode toggle trip 2 only. The right switches im guessing is no worse than the kill switch, a prototype will tell.

Forward/reverse roadbook switch is bolt on, should be pretty easy to design a bolt on toggle switch version.

Trying to get a prototype made, will post back when its done.

Hi Gany,
Suggest you have a look at different brand clutch brackets and how they might impact on the cabeling to your switch- I found out with another multiswitch(which fits fine with Honda and Yamaha clutches) that the cable has to be bent at a near right angle to go past the magura clutch bracket which has a bulky joint at that particular position.

Is that the clutch bracket on the berg? Is the cabling ok with the stock signal bracket? I modelled mine off the stock ktm cev one which has the cables come out at around a 40 degree angle.

Yep, talking about Berg/KTM. The stock swich block fits well, but when you replace it with any aftermarket item it can become a bit tight- the wider your switch is going to be the more so.
Can't be more precise at the moment as I won't be home to check until Thursday...

I've been hammering this setup since last summer. Hundreds of miles of whoops and almost two thousand hard off road miles.

Since we are using hammers now , here is my set up, lean and mean.. (i hope)

Does anyone have a solution for slipping belts on an F2R roadbook? They slip when there is a large roadbook in there first thing in the morning when there is moisture around. I put heavier O rings on mine which solved it but they don't seat fully into the groove. I'm thinking toothed belts would be far far better

There are lots of thing you could try to avoid this.
BUT ! Toothed belts would not work in any case using the same type of transmission. May be with other forms of transmission .
The reason is that you rely on the belts slipping when you unwind the paper by hand. Otherwise you try to turn the motor pulley which would not work. That is why for example Touratech disengages the gears when going manual.

You can try (1) different overall diameters to increase tension and different section diameters to increase the ''bite'' . (2) You can change the pulleys to increase the bite but you don't want to go there, believe me ...and I what I would do (3) , play with different materials. There are materials which will increase the amount of friction by just the right amount. Too low and it will not transfer torque. Too high and it will not allow manual use... You just have to find the balance :huh

There is a very tight relationship between being able to go manual and transfer torque when in automatic mode and the manufacturer has to balance that.

1) Are you talking about the 730 or the 750 ?
2) Compare the roadbook diameters when > You roll it tight by hand outside the roadbook and when you put it in. Big difference will have the effect you are talking about.

D.

Mark,

Would you mind elaborating on this a little further. I want to run 2 ICO's along with the stock OEM on 690. But the problem is I am have the sxf forks and I am using the RR speedo sensor mount that sits on top of the fork pinch bolts. I am guessing you must have drilled holes on the brake caliper for the ICO pick ups. But I have seen mostly 2 holes on the caliper. Where do you have the third one ?

I'm not Mark , but I did a writeup on different options recently:

http://www.rallymanagementservices.com/blogs/news/7729861-how-to-mount-two-ico-sensors

Rather than right and left like Mark did, you could use the stock tapped hole and then my dual ICO bracket setup as well. That way they use the same magnet.



BTW, why 3 odometers? Never heard of that before. Just curious...

Dave

640, I'm talking about the 750. Early morning when there is moisture in the air it slips. I hear you though re the gearing/motors.

Dave, Would you not prefer them to be behind the forks via a drilled and tapped caliper hanger? They're awfully vulnerable in front.

750 has dual belts no? Both slipping sounds weird but then again you could try the following :
If it is just moisture and you are sure about it, put some silica gel pouches in and you will be ok! If it is still doing it then it is something else... May be the ' early part of the roadbook...' :huh
I have seen only the 730 and used it for trials so I cannot comment on the 750 as it has a different setup with dual belts...

Of course. This pic is a CRF though. Nowhere to drill, and it's covered by the stock CRF disc guard, so no problem. This was just an example of one way.

Go to the article I linked to--you'll see that on the KTM I do drill additional holes in the caliper.



You can also drill a hole vertically up into the bottom of the caliper bracket and then attach an ICO bracket to that location. Debatable which is less exposed (front/high or rear/low).

Dave

I set my 690 up with two ICO's one on each leg main and spare I did have make gaurds for them. I aso wanted to run the stock cluster so I did drill two holes in the lower inside of my Husaberg fork leg to mount the stock 690 pick up.
That way I can still use the speedo and it keeps track of the miles on the bike

I like Dave's mounting and use use only 1 magnet, I may do that on my 450 I am building now.

I took Dave's version as inspiration and mounted the second pickup at the brake caliper bracket.



to provide the cockpit


When I bought my Rally in 2004 the previous owner had mounted a trail tech Pickup, the black thingy on the caliper bracket, good place for pickup No.3 if needed


btw. to mount the Roadbook I used the Acerbis Rally Handguard Mounts.
I had them lying around


But all the gear on the handlebar is not good for higher speeds on rough ground.
I ordered the Raid Designs Bracket for testing.


cu
Stefan

I also prefer the dual pickups in the caliper bracket as they are better shielded in the back. As I've still managed to rip out a cable back there, additionally I now use the protector from Rally Raid Products:

http://www.rally-raidproducts.co.uk/rallye-rally-accesories-/ktm-690-enduro-exc-ico-speedo-cover

For

navigation tower for BOANO fairing.

MakS,

That fairing support is looking SWEET! I would recommend a radius on the inside of the triangle cut outs though. The sharp corners will develop stress cracks no? Should be easy since you will likely get it laser or water jet cut anyway...

I make on CNC the milling machine.

Let's prolong wasn't with metal tension.

How did you make this foam?