1968 Bultaco Matador m26

New points and condensor on the way. Stay tuned next week.
If this doesn't work, I hate motorcycles forever.

the solution is to own more motorcycles. that way when you get stuck on one, you can move on to another one

Guess I'll put this in here as well, seeing that it is cranked. The points were the issue

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/26125716" width="800" height="450" frameborder="0"></iframe>

May be I am blind or the pixels got lost over the pond?
I only can see black?

I think your pixels got lost :) even your quote of my post had the embedded video in it.
Try:
http://vimeo.com/26125716

Cool , you got the bike sorted, very very nice,
a real beauty and cool machine.

I think this will be interesting for you: a footage from the TV from Switzerland, this footage is from 1969, by the there is an interview with Jacky Ickx about trialsriding, thereafter follows a lot of interesting stuff.

http://archives.tsr.ch/player/motards-trial

The Alpina is also nice to see in action.

BTW:
My browser had a problem, I do not know which, but now it's working again.

P.S.:
I'am a little bit jealous that yours is already running, I do have some work left for my Bulto.

Woooo. It's officially running and in break in period, where it fouls plugs left and right -_-
I'm just glad it's to that phase!

So my timing isn't dead on because I couldn't get a proper indicator to tell me when the points open...I eyeballed it.
Is there anything ya'll use to know the precise moment they open? According to my manual, it wants me to pull the wire from the points (on the coil end, above the engine...black) and hook a meter/light to it. I have an ohm meter, put my red lead on the wire from the coil that goes to the points and grounded on the cylinder head but could not find the setting to let me know when the points circuit breaks...I tried them all.
Any thoughts or processes?

get a proper dial indicator, and cut a spark plug apart to fit dial indicator in (make it tight so it won't move in plug holder...) (google it... see:
http://rd400.petercamburn.com/2008/08/25/homemade-2-stroke-timing-kit/ ) - you won't need an indicator extension if it's a 1" indicator. it doesn't need to be a metric dial indicator - just google the conversion.

put your multimeter on continuity (with beep..) or you could just put it on ohms/resistance/whatever, but you gotta watch it, the beeping is easier.



you will hear the points separate by the beeping/no beeping.. look at your indicator and you will see how far you need to move the plate. make sure our points gap is dead on before you try to time it.

sorry for the crappy description, but i think you'll figure what i mean.

See, I've done EXACTLY what you described and just got a solid beep every time. I have a dial indicator as well so I find TDC, rotate reverse engine motion a half engine, then slowly turn the fly wheel in the natural direction and look for the points to open at a certain tolerance (I have it written down, something like .119-.136".)
The dial part is no biggie, got that, but my OHM meter (or me) is not doing it right. I pull the black wire (coming from the points) at the coil, hook up the meter and click to the setting you specified and just get a continuous beep.
I'll reproach it tonight or tomorrow with your directions to see if I really was on the right setting etc.
Thanks for the instructions there!
Btw, that spark plug holder for the dial is killer! I need to make one tonight

set it at ohms then, and watch the meter - and analog meter is actually easier to use for this application. on beep mode it should stop beeping when it opens,i just play with it till it works..

if your plug holder is not tight enough (mine isn't) i wrapped a bit of scotch tape around the dial indicator housing and it made it a nice friction fit.

Tin foil or the clear foil on cigeratte packages can be inserted between the points, they fall out instantly when something is moving.

Yeah sure, it's possibly more precise with the instruments you use now, but it is still a 40 year old bike, with points.

Gee whiz I'm getting old. I bought these same boots in 1972.
I found them in the "Aldens" catalog, similar to a Sears Catalog.
Gave my mother the money and she ordered them.

Took the heel off the very first day. I had seen enough pictures of
Aldof Weil, Joel Robert and Roger Decoster to know that real mxers
had flat sole boots. At the moment my boots are somewhere up in the attic...
I was in 14 and in 8th grade.

dlb

Hell, my buddy Rick and I still wear ours on a regular basis!

any updates on the Matador? I need some inspiration. I have a stalled m-26 refurb, as well as an m-26 trials conversion waiting in the wings. A third m-26 came up for sale not far from here. Hate to have to let it pass by...

Now that is a funky retro looking video. Whoever did that knew how to handle a camera. Love the depth of field and HDR look.

Hahah, thanks. I made it.

No progress currently. It runs (just rough) but I have a lot on my hands with fixing the r90, riding it and buying my first home.

Guys, after years and years of waiting....I finally have a shop with a work bench.
What does this mean for ya'll??
Well, you guys get to see the Matador torn down, and blasted frame up! The engine is done...so not much to do there. I'm half tempted to split the cases again and get them re-chromed but I'm going to actually ride this bike soooo I don't care. Womp womp.
Fred, Jenna, Brad, Len....any of ya'll want to come over one night and pull some pieces off and help catalogue parts? I'll see if I can't arrange proper drinks :)
I've got a painter that will do all my parts for about $65 if I blast and prime them for him. He's in Augusta and just did my dads 76 Husky WR 250.

hi guys i'm new here and i noticed a bultaco thread. i just got done with mine and i would like to know what you guys think. oh and do you guys know what kind of air filter it takes. thank you
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hpho...3556828819_735148818_9298002_1994142013_o.jpg