Okay, it's fall/winter project bike time and I'm already battling Clymer who seem to have hidden the torque value quite cleverly. I know the 1972 R75/5 had issues with folks over tightening these bolts, I've got my inch pounds wrench at the ready...who knows the number and will you post it, please? edit: forgot to specify - Torque value for the oil pan bolts, please.
For the oil pan bolts, it's something like 6 or 7 foot pounds. In other words, just snug. A dry oil pan is a function of how clean you prepare the metal surfaces (use acetone to get it all....no residual anything), and tighten the 14 bolts in a crosswise star pattern beginning in the middle of the two long sides. Tighten sequentially, not all at once on a single bolt. For torque specs: http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/torquevalues.htm
This seems to say 6lb ft (72 inch pounds) That sounds about right to me. http://www.bmwscotter.org/tools/torque-wrench/valenti-torque-specs.pdf
Right you are Pommie. Here's Snowbum's work on the subject: Oil pan mounting bolts: book values 6.5-8 (some books show to 8.5)foot-pounds.......I suggest less, perhaps 5.5-6, carefully tighten in a staggered cross-pattern, starting at the center ones, and do it very evenly. NO GOO! Put the lettered side UP. There is a heat-activated glue on these. The old cork gaskets are NLA. I do these bolts BY HAND, not torque wrench. YOU may want a torque wrench MOST torque wrenches of the type that have a range of maybe 5 to 75 foot-pounds, can NOT be used for this, as their accuracy is NOT good, nor is the FEEL for the click. If you plan to use a torque wrench, use an INCH-pound wrench. Multiplying my 5.5-6 foot-pounds by 12, you can see that I would be recommending 66 to 72 INCH-pounds.
Snug but not too snug. Get a 0-200 inch-lb torque wrench and use 70-75 inch-lbs. On aluminum, your best friend is a 3" palm ratchet, 3/8 drive. Pan bolts, run through the pattern, snug them and run it for a week and re-snug. The gasket tends to "settle".
I did them via a screwdriver type socket to hand tight, then snugged them with my hand around the middle of a 3 inch flex ratchet. Less is better. A couple stripped out anyhow (when they are ready to go, they go with the slightest torque). Loosen, then retighten as you are taking the pan off: that way you strip the threads which are shot before you put the pan back on. Helicoil is your friend.
Thanks everybody. I knew I had read that number somewhere and when I didn't find it in the Clymer I just stopped working and walked away; too many months of prep reading and I hadn't bookmarked the proper spot. It seems that I read and absorbed Snowbum's procedure and my tiny brain just didn't remember...
I don't use a torque wrench on these and I also use Locktight, Blue, most times. However on occasion when I could not find the tube of Locktight it worked fine, they held, dry. Still did not use a torque wrench.
