X-Challenge - Accessories/Farkles

True, but the dimensions will be identical to the TT rad so we should be fine.

Will your new improved Radiator have a thermostat installed?
I don't think the TT radiator has one.

No it hasn't. I need to get my std rad off to have a look at how it is fitted

Had a look at the stock set up today. The left end is made of plastic and contains the thermostat housing with the outlet directly below the inlet. It allows cold water to bypass the rad by letting it flow from the top to bottom within the left end. As the water heats, the stat closes this route and the water has to flow across the rad and back to get to the outlet.

The TT rad does away with the stat and mounts the header behind the rad. allowing the rad to be wider. The water goes in the left and out the right. If I get this rad made it will be the same as the TT rad.

I just happen to have the front end out of mine so I took a picture today and I'm posting it up to assist the communication



Mine is the std setup

I have been xchallenge user since july 2010 and was a Ktm 640 ADV 03 user for about 2 years. I am pretty happy with my xchallenge, but I made some small mods by myself, which I really needed for long trips and they will continue. As many rally fairings are far expensive, I decided to make a rally fairing style windscreen from plexiglass. For mounting the windscreen I used Kawa Versys 08 windscreen mounts through the existing headlight mount. I have searched many many windscreens which are still being sold at the market, but non of them satisfied me with their design. As I am an architect I made a basic drawing after demounting the headlight and I used a fume plexiglass and bend it with conventional style of heating through my pre-aliminium model. I left a clear space between the handlebar and windshield inorder to mount my Garmin 60csx and I am still preparing a metal mount base for the gps. Also to complete the design I also made a headlight protector :). Also I have modified my seat with black suede for non slipping and added a second hand hepco gobi topcase for long trips beyond my softcases like walter...Another one is the exhaust mod, a cheap and very good solution as FMF Q4 powerbomb exhaust tube...Here is the result:

(If anybody needs the drawings of my mods I can send them in any format)

I had my radiator off this week and gave it a soak and careful scrub but it still doesn't flow well in the central part of the rad. Looks like a replacement is called for.

While it was off I took several photos and detailed measurements to send to the fabricator. I hope to hear back this week to see what he thinks. The plan is to make a high capacity radiator similar to the TT rad. It would be nice to have the stat in it but that would be difficult to achieve. By removing the stat and moving the header tank space is freed up to create a larger radiator.

It would be useful to hear from anyone who has installed the TT rad. How well does it work? are there any issues with removing the stat?

I think the only issue, or actually a result of not having a thermostat there is that it takes a bit longer for the engine to reach normal operating temperature.

I'm interested in the replacement rad, but def. would want to make sure it is a quality unit, as well.

This screen is not my taste but I have maximum +1 respect points for you for building it. It sure looks like it will cut down the wind from the front and maybe if you angle it right it could pick up the wind behind and make you faster?

Mate, that top box looks like a great way to break your sub frame. Any weight in that puts lots of leverage on just the point that they break.

I know all the problems about subframe, but this is for city commuting :) I will use my soft cases for soft enduro riding and the metal frame of topcase is going to be used for carrying my tent just 2.5 kg... Thanks anyway :)

I have adjusted its angle and size as just same with G450 speedbrain rally fairing. Hope it works!!!

It looks good. I wanted to make one myself but no skills with forming plastics. I put a short screen on mine and it made a huge difference so I expect yours will be ideal.

You dont need any skills for sure i can send you the dxf or cad drawing, and you can make it cut by a router or cnc machine then from bending lines you need a wire with electricty passing through thats all..I can give much more info if you need...

Can you explain more about this please

Hey: I'm selling the TT Rally Lights and Fairing setup on my X. It's orginally for the BMW HP2 with a custom bracket.

PM or email me @ jack-bsm@com for details.








I'll post this in the flea market soon. Wanted to give you guys a heads up.

Jack

Leafman,

I am having the A06 issue with my bike when my HIDs fire. Like you said, if the kill switch is in, then no problem.

So, i am going to take your advice and use a VOES. I am going to rewire the whole deal.

Thanks for the heads up and a good solution.

Rob

Finally it arrived, the OEM muffler changed by Stephan Scheffelmeier, and it was worth waiting.
From the outside you can hardly see the difference, only the diameter of the inner tube leaving the muffler is now round (OEM= oval) and +/- 10 mm larger.
Compared to the OEM i couldn't believe this muffler has been opened up and welded together, one thing is sure only a 1st class masterwelder can do this job.
Sound at idle is somewhat deeper than original, I can only compare to previous bikes i owned, an uncorked XR600 or DRZ400 is way louder at idle. The challenge sounds happy...and willing to ride.
Questions with other mufflers is always the same, what's the cost (beside the money) for a better sound? More on top and less at lower rpm? Before i installed the muffler i asked Stephan, he says "a little bit better on top, a little loss down low".
The ride I've made was the road to work, country roads where farmers drive by, gravel and mud on asphalt, a road that I know so well that I can predict at each time what my challenge will do.
The less I can say is that I'm surprised. In the first place the sound dark and deep at middle and high rpm's, closing the throttle it's like that the pipe is sucking air in, no backfiring. I'm sure with this pipe you pass all the sound tests at an official enduro. No noise harm in the city or for your neighbours or for your own ears (the Sharks on my Thruxton do harm my own ears!). No officer will stop for too much noise!
On top the bike breathes freelier,but I'm a torque driver and there the gain is noticeable: in turns I could drive a higher gear (due to smoother power delivery) so the bike won't break out so easily and corner speed is higher.
OK, the weight is the same as the OEM but i don't bother: the OEM is a reflexion muffler,so the time that others have to change the wool every ...miles i'm driving, it mounted better than any other aftermarket and top quality.
Reviews of aftermarkets learned me that in most cases they are not better than OEM, some even came back from their aftermarket and mounted the OEM.
I can say that this modified muffler IS better than the OEM.

+ dark,deep sound (but very acceptable)
+ smoother down low
, freelier at high rpm
+ top quality of the OEM, top welding from Scheffelmeier
+ reflektion muffler=no servicing

- weight

i also had same problem. i added a switch so i could manually turn on lights well after engine was running. it still would reset the clock sometimes.the problem is definately voltage drop.i ended up adding a half farad capacitor.i tried all the other tricks first with no luck. single h4 kit wire to oddessy battery.now with capacitor works fine now.

Ugh, I hope this fixes it, else I will wire up a cap. Soon behind my headlight will look like the inside of a TV made in the 70s.

Here is my plan for now. I ordered a VOES and when it gets here it will only take a short time to modify the wiring.

I am going to add a single pole, double throw center off switch which will give me some options.

1. (NC) Normal operation, headlights function when vacuum is present.
2. In off position headlight off with engine running.
3. (NO) When this position is selected I bypass VOES to illuminate headlight when the engine is not running.

So here is my revised diagram, and I fixed the diode for whoever noticed it was backwards before.