Can you confirm the 450R forks have the same tube diameters at the triple clamps as the CRF250L forks? Spud
wargasm your right about the speedo drive I forgot about that not being there, again I think most would agree and usually when anyone does a front end swap the complete front end is used. And if your going with CRFR forks your pounding that bike really hard and the larger stronger front axle should be the perferred way to go. I will measure the forks tonight guys and see exactly what they are, not a problem
And I would also like to say that I think this bike fuckin rails offroad with stock suspension. Ive been riding offroad about as long as Ive been walking and it works extremely good stock, again everyone is different and wants different things from their bikes. Im about 155lbs too In reality I would probably never change anything but fluid in the forks even if this was the only bike I had, just my 2 cents
Here are some measurements of the CRF250L and CRF250X forks. I used an inch tape for some measurements, but converted everything to mm. I'm trying to track down the bearing sizes. The fork tube OD measurements are of the clamping surfaces, just below each bridge.
LOL!...I'm not at all surprised that you're digging into this. Hey...not arguing with your measurements by any means, but do those triple clamp measurements on the 250X forks seem small compared to the 250L? How big are the lower fork stanchions on the X fork you measured? I'm guessing 47mm is the norm on the 250X stanchions and 43mm for the 250L model. I guess the uppers are beefy enough that they don't have to that much bigger in overall diameter to handle the 47mm stanchions. That's going to make it more convenient that the upper and lower steering stem bearings are identical, isn't it. You know...I'm a little impressed that the overall fork lengths are within 14mm of each other considering the difference in travel of about 3.7". That 14mm could easily disappear in sag, so I wouldn't expect a "tall" or weird head angle issue at static or normal riding position. However, I'm wondering about dive and skidplate clearance at full travel and just near full travel. Interesting stuff.
Those measurements are all pretty damn close. I'm assuming head pipe means steering stem, in which case it seems close enough to press the X stem into the L lower clamp, heck even a 10mm difference isn't that bad, I'll try to get my hands on a lower clamp and stem from an X to see if it will work. Someone else should give it a go too, I think the guy I know only runs 450s. THe suspension seems good to me, this is my first "dirtbike" so I've got nothing to compare it too. I just want stiffer dampening because of my portly stature.
Very good info here. I'm glad people are taking this bike seriously right off the bat. At 260lbs with gear the suspension is a little lacking for me. The rear seems to be the worst for me and feels likes it skips and bottoms when you pick up speed. Almost like I'm just dragging a 2x4 behind me. The front feels way better but still I know that the setup is lacking. I would really like to hare scramble this bike and part of that would include getting some better suspension under the bike. Do you guys think a spring and gold valve swap on the front would be good enough or would I notice a better gain with some 250x forks also re sprung? For the rear I'm probably going to go with the racetech shock replacement. Thanks, RAMZ for the great info. Jake Oh, and when doing the valve service check you can set the gas tank were the seat was without disconnecting the fuel line.
hi all, If anyone wants to watch a few CRF250L's and me on my trusty XR400 in action just view the vid i cut below... <iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/-jLc52Goo-Q?list=UUDe54nF5gA41x8TJqUvwN6A&hl=en_GB" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> Enjoy Lars
I'm thinking about buying a FMF slip on exhaust, What is the difference between the Q4 Hex S/A and the Power core 4 Hex? Is it just that the power core hex doesn't have the quiet insert? If so can i buy the Q4 Hex S/A and take out the insert and essentially its the power core? Here is the link http://www.fmfracing.com/Products/BikeAsList/2013_HONDA_CRF250L
I have to say , for me personally it is a bit all over the place in sand at moderate speeds but I think its the rubber they fitted. Also it is a bit Vibey but its my first 4 stroke so i would guess its normal. I think if you fit some decent dunlops it would perform better in the dirt but then sacrifice on the tar. Its a hard choice and understandably finding a balance between the two will be a challenge. I love the bike its really awesome but I have a long way to go to get it just the way I want it. Still riding it in @ 340km odo on the clock. I have to admit it is allot smoother than it was pre-300km odo. Did you guys priest-drive it for 500km as per the manual? Then hammer it? Or did you priest it for a little longer? I would like to know when it will be completely safe to punish it a little on the throttle.
I was wondering the same thing. My dealer stressed the importance of proper break-in but this is my very first brand new bike so I don't want to screw anything up by getting on it too early.
Pics from Sep in the high country in central CO: The Kenda K270s are excellent for riding paved roads to the backcountry and then gravel/rocky 4WD roads.
I have a bunch of times, I have a tight nargly single track in my back yard and the things just rails want a video?
What kind of tank bag is that and also what type of hand guards? Im currently looking to buy both soon.
