Texas to Montana!

Hey Joseph, Sounds and looks like a great trip. The pictures really help tell the story. Easy to tell that you're a photographer. Last time I was on that route I got an old ditty in my head that just wouldn't let go. "Roamin' through Wyomin', with our chest hairs blowin' in the breeze". Never could remember the rest of the words. Here's a pic for you, same place, different time.
Looking forward to your next posting.
Udo

Thanks Udo - now I've got that stupid song stuck in MY head...

Having a ball!

See ya man

I arrived in Yellowstone pretty exhausted for some reason and decided to try and stay there for the night. It was fun seeing the entrance, as all my life I'd read of the place but wondered if I'd ever get there.

I stopped in at the Old Faithful Lodge amid throngs of foreign tourists and amazingly managed to "get the last room anywhere in the park."
Awesome.












Wandered over to watch the eruption and then headed back to Grant Village for the room.




I saw only one buffalo on the ride into the park, and the traffic wasn't too bad. Entering from the south, there isn't much to see from the road since there are so many trees.

I decided to wander out in the dark and get some fresh air after checking into the room. A brown shorts moment occurred in a pitch black area of the path I was on, when apparently I walked up on an elk, who breathed heavily in the darkness a few feet before I would have walked into him.

Took a good shower and hit the sack.


Monday 7.2.07 - Grant Village Yellowstone thru Beartooth Pass to Cody

I woke up this morning feeling great and ready to ride. The weather was perfect and the air was crisp, filled with the scent of conifers, fresh air and freshly roasting bugs on the oilhead's cylinders... mmmm.

Only the best for man and machine


The ride past West Thumb lake was crisp and uneventful, other than spotting the Loch Ness Monster. Either that or it was an overturned canoe with someone desperately waving a paddle. I waved back and continued on.

Didn't see much but the rear end of buses and motor homes as I went north towards the east gate. Rant on: WHY in the heck do people try to bring everything they own with them? I saw so many huge trailers and motorhomes towing other trailers behind them. Man, just buy a house! Rant off:





This dude jumped up on the walkway! I bolted...




Reaching the Canyon intersection, a lot of the traffic disappeared and the scenery got much more interesting as I headed north.
I stopped here and there, always aware that the bozo I'd just spent 20 minutes trying to pass would get ahead of me again. Aaaaargh.







There were several herds of buffalo across the road and I more than patiently waited for them to cross :)





What I noticed is they pay no attention to cars, but DEFINITELY watched me, turning their head slowly to track me. Maybe the bike looks like some weird creature... hmmmmm


Heading through the Towers area was beautiful and only got better. The Northeast road towards Montana was breathtaking and that is definitely the way I'll enter the park next time. Very few cars and people and the roads are smaller and less maintained - it felt like I was back in the 60's era of the park. Here and there were clusters of cars and people with spotting scopes but I could never see what they were looking at. Wolves I heard later.








Just before exiting the park, I saw a black bear not too far off the road and watched him eat his way towards me. Suddenly I felt the need to move on.




From the park exit to Cooke City was an incredible ride and again the scenery is astounding. Outside Cooke City I saw the dirt road leading to Daisy Pass and decided I needed some dirt adventure. The first section of switchbacks had me reconsidering my decision - they were rutted with lots of large loose rock and sand. The bike is so loaded with gear I had my hands full getting up it. It was just pick a line, gas it and pray. No big deal for a dual sport but the loaded pig was a handful. I must say the new Ohlins probably made the difference between me busting it and not. The handling was much improved.




Further up the pass they had worked on the roads and they were good. Reaching the top, I was disappointed to find the road blocked with a few feet of snow. Still I was at the top and it was beautiful. Heading down I shut off the ABS and sweated out the last mile of rock strewn road.

















Feeling my oats from the offroad excursion I blew on to Beartooth Pass. The ride over the pass can be described in one sentence...

Un bee leave a bull.

The ride from the park over to Red Lodge is just astonishing. Next time I'll just bypass RMNP and come straight here! my life is now complete - I got to ride it with no one in front of me and blue skies - yowza!

















Finally made it to Montana at the top of the pass. Just across the line there were 75 mph speed signs still on top of the pass... I like Montana already
High winds at the top of the pass made the ride even more breathtaking.





Red Lodge Montana is a cool town. Despite being touristy it still has character and some rough edges left.






Arrived in Cody late to found there is a huge Pro Rodeo going so the town is packed. I finally found a room to stay the night in - wasn't cheap and sure is low end but at least the manager put me in a room next to the office so I could get wifi :)

On the way to Belfry then Cody:



The Cody Hilton



The Route:


More later...

I sure have enjoyed your report. Thanks for posting. The narration and pictures are outstanding!

Hey Helo - thanks man! I'm havin fun and would like to add more info but I'm always to tired to remember it

Garland eh? I've spent most of my life in Dallas and lived on the edge of Garland for many years.

Enjoying the report so far!


I thought I would add some more to what I said earlier. If your going to through synder and not staying in lubbock and you don't want to stay on the I-27. Take I-40 east of of Amarillo and jump on 287 toward dallas (right at the split) and go to Claude. Take Hwy 207 all the way to down to Post and catch 87 to synder from there. There is plenty of flat lonely stuff, but a you will come through two awsome canyons (backside of palo duro canyon) between Claude and Silverton. Decent stuff between Ralls and Post. A few good dirt roads near the caprock (can remember the numbers, but they are clay and sand) that will take you into Southland on 287 or into post maybe even farther southeast.

July 3, 2007

Last night at the Grizzly Bear Lodge proved to be interesting.

I was crashing comfortably on the bed in the little dump motel when I saw a large spider run across the floor at high speed and go under the bed. This guy was big and fast.

Hmmm... I got up and flipped the sheets back and there sat another large spider right under the pillow, which then bolted down the headboard. I didn't ride 2000 miles to get bitten by a spider. A wolf maybe but not a spider.

Solution:


I carry a tent for emergencies - just didn't expect to have to use it in the middle of a motel. Oh well, the bed made a good sleeping pad.


When I went to brush my teeth, this guy let me know who was boss. I tried to wash him down the drain with hot water but he was unfazed and gave me a dirty look



I washed him down the drain several times with hot water but he'd come zooming back out. I figgered this was the nicest place he'd ever lived so I left the sink to him.
Fully expecting baby snakes to come squirting out of the shower head, I was pleasantly surprised when I had a full shower unmolested by critters.

Had breakfast at Granny's in Cody and folks were lining the streets early to see the Stampede Days Parade. After breakfast I hit the Cody Museum - absolutely great! The gun collection is great as are the other areas. When I came out the parade was still going on and staging from the museum parking lots. A senator from Wyoming was there (last name starts with a K) and he and his assistant ended up standing next to me. As the parade wound down I jumped on the bike and pulled out behind the two cop cars at the tail of the parade and slowly followed them down the route - so I can now say I was "almost" in the Stampede Days parade.









I was pleasantly surprised to see cheering crowds waiting for my arrival




This dude's tall enough to ride a KTM 950




Cody PD




The senator is in the blue shirt - he was too squeaky clean












Following the cops and pooper scoopers on the route



Delayed by a bunch of clowns in Cody, I headed up Chief Joseph highway at a good clip. It was really beautiful - less dramatic than Beartooth but a great road.






Rollin rollin rollin, keep them dogies rollin, rawhiiiiiiiiiide!!!!!!











I stopped in Cooke City and grabbed a coffee and snapped a couple pics.

Cooke City





Continuing on back into Yellowstone I looped around the top of the park and out through the west entrance. The traffic was heavy today and made the ride long and slow. By the time I got out of the park I was ready... Luckily I saw another black bear, lots o' buffalo, elk and a bald eagle on the ride.












West Yellowstone was another Touristastan but I got a sandwich there and headed on for Dillon, MT. FYI there is a "Pizza and Internet Cafe" right as you come into the town. Skip it and go on. They charge 20 cents a minute for internet access...




The scenery changed as I went west on 287 past Hebgen Lake towards Ennis. The mountains looked different than in Yellowstone
and eventually fell away to rolling hills and wide open valleys between the ranges. Still a beautiful ride. Somewhere on 287 I passed a KLR 650 and a blue and white 1150GS heading towards Yellowstone. They were loaded with gear and we waved. It was good to see some other ADV bikes finally. I have seen very few - about 4 1200GS's in Colorado. 2 pairs in Yellowstone, the above mentioned and 2 1200's in Virginia City.

287




Earthquake Lake




On the way to Ennis


I wish I had a dollar for every Goldwing with a trailer I've seen - I could've paid for the Ohlins shocks easily. Of the seemingly thousands I'd guess that almost half were trikes. I didn't realize the popularity of them. Harleys were the second largest group. The rest were a smattering of BMW's and only a handful of sportbikes.

Speaking of Virginia City, that is a really cool town! It appears to be an old mining town that has remained unchanged - the buildings are old aged black wood like you see in ghost towns but apparently have going concerns within them. The little town was hopping and I went through without stopping or taking a pic - wish I had but was brain-dead at that point and forgot to. A couple of miles down the road is Nevada City - smaller but with old buildings and several abandoned rail cars that speak of the wealth that was there.

Nevada City



Psychoville Manor


I will make it a point to come back to those towns next time I come through.

The day was fading fast and I raced on to Sheridan, then Twin Bridges and south to Dillon.

The Route:


Tomorrow my destination - across Chief Joseph Pass and up the Bitterroot Valley!

BTW, great report and beautiful pics. But I saw your bike parked in front of the western ho store. Which do you think are better?...western ho's or eastern ho's. I've heard lots of differing opinions on the issue.

OK, OK, I realize that was pretty lame...LOL! Hey, really enjoying the ride, and your write-up is great. Man...the spiderfest in that quality lodging establishment sounds erie. When you awoke in the AM, was your tent covered in hundreds of spiders, just like in the horror movies?:eek1

Hi Joseph! Your photos and report are great! I just wonder what happened in the arachnid motel room after you were asleep. Probably something like this.

Sorry I couldn't meet you and share part of the trip through Wyoming! I'm also sorry you missed out on the Seminoe State Park route, but I understand. I spent the weekend on my bike, riding from Laramie to Colorado Springs on Saturday, and back on Sunday. Your blow-dryer analogy is right on the money. What a scorching weekend!

Glad to learn that your trip is going well. Good luck!

Great ride report!.......great bike!

This spider crap however is creepin' me out!!!!.......

Great Job LoneStar!
Enjoying your report & Pics.

Ha hah hahahahaha! Robert you are too funny! That pretty much describes the feeling, however I left early before the animals got in the room.
Toooooo funny man

The scariest part was wondering if they had gotten into my boots and gear the next morning. I swear I could feel things crawling around in my jacket as I was riding the next day...

I knew I'd get that question - not sure but I saw a Harley Ho hanging out in front of a bar in Red Lodge

Were you the two guys who parked there for a few minutes?

Trice - just do it

July 4, 2007

I slept good and spider free at the Super 8 Motel in Dillon. The night before I'd spent a while talking to the girl behind the counter and her husband, an ex Army Ranger before heading out to get a good steak.


That's what you call "tacos to go"






Morning coffee


The morning air was brisk and there wasn't a cloud in the sky when I headed south on the interstate to catch 287 west towards Bannack and Wisdom.

The cloudless sky allowed me to really appreciate the "Big Sky" of Montana. It's been interesting to sense the differing feelings of different states. They do have a "feel" that is their own.






287 towards Bannack was rolling hills and sweeping vistas and long long stretches seeing no one. It's amazing to be able to ride long spells and see no sign of humanity. It's refreshing and also triggers those little fears of breaking down in the midst of nowhere.





Don't miss Bannack if you're near. It was the frontier capitol of Montana and is a ghost town not to be missed. The state maintains it as a park - looks like a great place to camp also - and you can walk through the buildings and read the stories of gunfights and wild west adventures. I will come back to really search the town.
















Montana has a sense of history and stepping back in time like I've seen nowhere else. People drive old cars, and there are many old buildings strewn here and there. Not only that, the people are friendly and filled with what seems to be lacking in America nowadays. I feel tinges of the feelings I had as a child in the 60's - remnants of America that I miss.

While in Bannack I met 2 riders from Canada who had stayed at the Super 8 - I'd seen their bikes there the night before.



I continued on to Wisdom, taking a tushie timeout, tossing on a jacket liner in the nippy air and gulped a bag of M&M's for the road. There is a great trading post there. The usual Harleys were parked in rows with the watchful eye of the sheriff waiting for a speeder to come through.







From Wisdom I headed on 43 west and swung into the Big Hole Battlefield. This was where Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce had fought a battle with the US Cavalry as he had moved east towards Yellowstone and Cody. God, did I want to stay and walk the paths through that valley! There is nothing like ancient battlefields for sensing the power of history. Once again, a place I'd love to return to with more time.




Getting back on 43, I headed on up Chief Joseph Pass, a beautiful road with nice sweepers and of course beautiful mountain views.





I've really enjoyed riding in Montana because there are few people and the roads are mostly left to yourself. Finally reached the junction of 93 that heads up into the Bitterroot Valley towards Missoula. Coming down the pass the winds kept the switchbacks "interesting" and I almost overshot a couple of corners. I still forget the extra weight on the bike sometimes.










The Bitterroot is a beautiful valley between ranges that has the feel of a place in the infancy of becoming another Jackson, Wyoming. The population is growing and it's easy to see why folks are moving there. Actually it's sad to me and I feel for the locals who will slowly be pushed out by the wealth of outsiders. Nonetheless it is a beautiful valley.

I continued on to Stevensville where I will be staying for a few days and exploring the area. There were lots of folks on the river for the 4th, and my friend and I went to visit relatives for a barbecue bash and fireworks frenzy.

Several folks had gathered on the back deck of the house and I plopped down next to a couple from California. In the chitchat it came out that I had ridden from Texas to Montana, having just ridden in today. The couple, Kelly and Kay asked what kind of motorcycle I rode and I said "Well, have you ever heard of a BMW GS?" Big smiles erupted and they burst into laughter. Kelly informed me that they had just ridden in from Cali on GS's - him on a 1200 GSA and Kay on a F650GS. What a hoot! Here in the middle of Montana at a family BBQ I bump into a couple of GS'ers.

We ate fantastic bbq ribs, had some good wine and played Red Neck Horseshoes with washers until the darkness came.

This is when the party began... I have never seen such a stockpile of fireworks in my life. These guys were serious.

The neighborhood consisted of 10 acre plots of fields in the valley with fireworks erupting all over the valley. Our hosts had prepared for the event with large launch tables, buckets of water about the place and a field of tall grass prepped with mown firebreaks and prepositioned water hoses.

The kids were launching rockets to the cheers of the household, and sure enough the field got a hot rocket. Fire blazed up and we raced around throwing buckets of water to no avail. The "fire marshall" finally got a hose to it and doused the blaze. Neighbors across the way cheered loudly and we did a victory dance.

Needless to say this pattern continued until late. We'd start a fire and the the neighbors would start a fire. Each was successfully doused but it was always a rush. Luckily my hosts were fireworks pros

We finally won the contest, starting 5 field fires to the neighbor's paltry 2.



I have vivid memories of this 4th of July... the cool evening, silhouettes of the mountains with shimmering stars in a clear sky and the valley filled with thousands of fireworks from homes all through the valley.

What a way to end my 2,761 mile ride.

America the beautiful lives on in hidden places...

I had to laugh at your comment about the Senator at the Cody parade. I would hope to find him squeaky clean if I even found myself on his operating table. Until a week ago, he was a surgeon.

If by Squeaky clean, you mean he is uncorrupted, I can explain that too. He's only been in the senate for a week, having been appointed to serve out the unexpired term of our previous senator, who died recently. He's not filthy yet, since he didn't have to get elected. Give him a few weeks. He'll be as dirty as the rest!

Welcome to Montana Lonestar! Hope you enjoy your stay as much as I have enjoyed your top notch ride report. Be safe - have fun!

Great report!

PLEEEZE tell me those Bison pictures were taken with a ZoooooooooooooM!:eek1