OH NO!!! It's Frankinbike Build Thread

Even when im not on my bike im still representing!

Nice!

I decided to try these new Driven Racing grips.
I forgot to take pictures of the cutting off of the old grips, i was alittle to much in the zone trying not to cut any of the heating element.
The ends of the grips were the hardest part, the center parts came off easy, the ends were glued or sealed so it was alot of trimming with my razor blade. They just push on, with some rubbing alcohol and brute force they slipped on. I wished there were groves or something for the grip ends to rest in but no.

This is what they look like, for a few bucks it will change the feel of the bike. thicker and more grippy without being sticky.


You just have to push them on and eyeball it, well thats what i did.

Nice looking FJ man!!!

Ryan

Im back!

Today im installing a dual USB charger to my dash board.

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Looks bitchen, but i have a question. I want to hook it up to spare accessory harness, but with 3 wires not sure which is which? anyone point me in the right direction?

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Pleazzzze use a Hand Model going forward.... L O L

Sorry... couldnt resist. Cant help ya... I am dangerous around wiring, so I will lurk.

PS - kickin idea and install !!!

canbus plug

this is what you're looking for switched power

I can only find Touratech that sells it here in the USA. but still confused about the 3rd wire? Why cant i just tap into a hot line? why go for the connector?

easier to remove it again...

F800 Depot

It has been a while since I have been in there, but if memory serves me correct, there is one ground, and one positive. The third one is merely a carry through to another hot connector tugged in there somewhere...... Just sniff out one positive, and one negative wire, and go with that.....

I was going to just cut off the plug end, solder it up, i can see no forcible reason why i would need to take it off.

Finished wiring it up today. it is switched and goes off around 60secs after the bike is off.

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I soldered everything up.
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Look what I got in the mail today!! whyknotboats sold it to me and it will be my mission to fix it up for spring time when ill ride the Utah Backcountry Discovery Route. But whyknotboats found my thread and liked what I was doing with my bike so he reached out to me and wanted to know if this would be a project that I would want to take on. CHALLENGE ACCEPTED!

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The problems with the tank is that it has a hole plus a few stress fractures. It also is missing all fuel line hook ups and connectors as well as the cross-bar support. I ordered the cross bar from Touratech for $60 but it will take a month to get here. My plan for the fuel lines are to figure out a new way of connecting the TT Tank to the main tank, so there will be a lot of experimenting going on, and any ideas or help i can get would be great.

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Here is the real problem i see with this, the whole mounting point is crushed, so im taking the tank to an auto body shop to have it looked out because i think this will need to be beefed up. I talked with another inmate and he said the same crack happened with his tank and he tried fixing it with JB Weld and the next time he crash it started to leak again.

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There are also a few other things but they should be a problem.

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Well I took the tank to 6 auto body, custom motorcycle, and paint shops and only 1 said they might be able to fix it. They have a plastic welder and they think it should work, the problem most people are having is that all the stuff they would patch the hole with, the fuel will devolve it. So the guy should call me tomorrow and let me know if he can weld it.

But tonight i stripped off all the plastic, and installed the tank, kinda.

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I know people have been having a hard time finding a tank bag for the tank, but i have a Giant Loop Diablo and it fits great.

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All you have to do to fuel up is unzip one side of the bag and you can get to the fuel cap.

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That is going to be a bitch to repair, I doubt you will ever get it to hold up to being crashed afterwards.

That being said, the plastic weld should be made from the same base material, so it shouldn't dissolve with fuel either. What was that body shop going to use? :huh

Well i live in a small town there is only 1 place that has a plastic welder, and all the other places only had stuff to fix bumpers (same material as the tank) but it would devolve in the fuel.

Anyone know anything about plastic welding?

I do a little bit, I've got a kit and have used it to weld some parts incl. cracked motorcycle fairings.

Mine is basically a temp adjustable soldering iron, with a tip that has a hole were you feed the welding rods through, 2mm thick rods of the exact same plastic type. But first you "stitch" the weld by pushing into the plastic with the hot tip at an angle. And if you need to reinforce the piece in a structural application you use a metal gauze and melt that into the plastic, ideally with access from both sides.

What material is the tank made from? It will be marked somewhere on there. Since it's paintable it's definitely not PE, my guess would be some type of PA, maybe PA6.

There was a fellow inmate that had similar issues, this past summer, and he was going to ask Touratech for the type of plastic used..... We did not hear back from his experience. I think you will be hard pressed to make it last. I have epoxy that will hold up fine to the ethanol/gas, but I am not sure it will have a good bite to the tank. Whatever adhesive you use, will tend to split away during stress, and heat cycles, as their thermal expansion coefficients most likely are not the same. If you were closer, and had no other options.....I'd give it a go..... But I don't think it would last.

I am pretty sure that any part made from plastic in the EU must say what kind it is exactly, for recycling purposes.

Look for a sign, logo or number, and compare it with the charts you can find on the web:

Amazing! Someone who knows exactly what i need!

i believe its PA 06 or maybe P-06, i called Touratech and they said it was Polymide Nylon? does that look right?