The chain is probably still good. But that front sprocket is toast is most likely the rear is no good too. Put on a new set and you should be good to go. Also lube up the shaft when you install the new ones.
Did you install a O'ring chain or a standard? What brand? It could be that the chain you installed is a POS and is just stretching which will wear out the sprockets in no time at all. The counter shaft sprocket teeth look very worn. It isn't a OE sprocket. Don't worry about the keeper's teeth being worn. If you can replace the front sprocket and chain. Get the best quality O'ring chain you can find. Money well spent. What does the rear sprocket teeth look like? Take a picture of you pulling the chain away from the rear sprocket at the 3' position. I would like to see how much daylight is between the gear and chain. A new chain should have none.
Jeff I did the TAT a couple years ago on my XRL and it's the perfect weapon for the job. Do Dave's mods. All the carbs are the same and it's worth doing. 55/158 on the jets works for me everywhere but I'm not looking to wring the last smidgen out of the thing and will accept a little less at altitude. It's still more than enough for anything you'll encounter. If you can get the newest Tenn. maps from Sam. Much better than the original. In the west I'd recommend the original. He's rerouted around Hancock and Tomichi and some others due to complaints from big bike riders. I won't even go into how I feel about that but there it is. If you do Hancock and Tomichi you'll be glad to have the bash plate. I see you said you have a rack already but I'll plug cycleracks.com anyway. They're big and a little goofy looking but they hold a lot of stuff securely and in my opinion help support the rear subframe. I've done a lot of traveling offroad and on and not had the first frame issue. Plus it's a good handhold to pick the pig up. I tumbled end over end in Oklahoma and everything stayed put. Well except for the windscreen and front fender. Here's the pig ready for the TAT. Tent, sleeping bag and dry bag on the rack. I used DirtBagz big set and really like them but NOT waterproof. I put everything in dry bags. They're very tough and stable on the bike. D606 front and rear like I always do. Very happy with that combo for my style of riding. Take your time and look around. It's a big country and lots of great people and scenery to see. Sounds like you've got a great plan with the nephew. John
Dont cut the airbox,the opening is large enough.The problem is airflow under the seat.The raised lip on top of the airbox where the snorkel was,cut it to about1/4 inch high and cut the rib infront of it on the bottom of the seat.Then see if rejetting is necessary.I left part of the lip on the airbox to deter water.
Hi Bryce. You should be concerned. Don't keep riding like that. People forget about keeping those splines lubricated and they end up getting sloppy, problem is it's not just the sprocket, the shaft itself gets worn too. I'm sure yours is compromised, and it takes a complete engine removal and disassembly to replace, but maybe you can continue with this one if you replace the sprocket with one for the "R" model, which has a longer base contact with the shaft. Don't worry about the locking tab not engaging tightly with the splines; it's only supposed to hold the sprocket from sliding up and down the shaft much while in the circumference groove. As long as you can insert it as far as the groove, rotate it a half-tooth and have it grab, you're good. I have a feeling the shop set your chain too tight, and that's what caused it to stretch way out. It may be compromised now, also. Very few people seem to know how to adjust a chain on a motorcycle. They go to measuring play here and there as they think they understand the manufacturer's instructions, and think they've got it, but the procedures are prone to error and misinterpretation. It's very simple with any bike, just compress the rear suspension until the line between the center of the two sprockets passes through the centerline of the swingarm pivot. This is the tightest point the chain sees. Tighten the chain so it's as tight as it can be without putting any "pull" on the sprockets. You can tell when you wiggle the chain as you tighten it, feel it go from sloppy, through just right, to under tension. You don't want tension! Your chain getting so loose so fast indicates it was probably under tension in that suspension position, the same is which probably caused your sprocket to accelerate wear at the shaft. BTW, the teeth on the sprocket look perfectly serviceable, another clue to excessive tightness. You should measure your chain length off the bike and see if it's still in spec. You still in Trujillo, or travel today?
Here ya go, TAT ready. Post TAT: With luggage: Short nap: You get the idea. Happy to send you a complete mod list for whatever you can't see.
As you wish. You can do it in steps or this way and then go back to what I suggested after you find it bubbly rich and guzzling gas. The trip sounds sweet, Jeff! I hope your nephew appreciates it. I'd love to do this. Only a few things coming immediately to mind at the moment. A manner of "highway pegs" out front to reposition your feet on long easy stretches. A tool tube up there may be helpful. Rim locks front and back. A connector for charging your phone, etc, while stopped. A good project would be to put together a list and then publicize it for other prospectives to get a head start. But I can't agree on the lowering link, personally. One good slam on a bottom-out could spell trouble for your back. I would never consider it myself, and I'm a short guy, can barely touch both sides at the same time on tippy-toes. Love my XRL suspension. Next improvement: a control that drops the bike to the bottom of its suspension when stopped, normal suspension action when under way.
Thanks to everyone for getting back to me! I do have an XR650R 15 tooth sprocket up front; we put it on when the bike had only about 2,000 miles on it. I just recently passed 12,000 miles. There really isn't much circular play in the spines at all; should it be totally rock hard snug to the point that you have to pound it on with a hammer? Or is there generally a tiny amount of looseness to it? The chain is an EK gold chain. I bought it back in the states before I left and have been lugging it around until I got to Colombia and changed it. It's been on for about 2,000 miles now. I thought it was an X-ring chain, but I never took it out of the box to check and when i did I found out it wasn't even an O-ring chain! Regardless, it's raining right now and I can't reallydo anything about it. I'm going to tighten up the chain in the morning and then run down Lima and find a good bike shop. If you all think that that sprocket is worn, I know a guy who is coming to Peru in a few days and I could have him bring me a new one. I also have a factory 14 tooth sprocket with me that we took off the bike before putting on the XRR one. I'll try and take some pictures tomorrow when I get to Lima and maybe a video to show you all what it looks like. Thanks again! Ulyses
BRYCE QUIT tightening the chain! thats part of your issue I use non oring chains and ride hard offroad and only adjust every 500miles or so if needed... mine last a long time and they are DID normal tensile strength chains that ek gold you have is a good chain there is something wrong in your setup and its probably an alignment and overtightening sutuation... I also use new chains on old sprockets with no issues whatsoever..but I am METICULOUS about alignment and keeping it nice and slack also lube or clean off after every run... good luck! christian
I just received an email indicating the Harbor Freight ATV/Motorcycle Lift is on sale this weekend for $69.99. The regular price is $119.99. http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-l...dium=email&utm_campaign=0213b&utm_source=1002 The Harbor Freight website lists the price as $89.99, but my coupon indicates the price is $69.99. This motorcycle lift is heavy; it almost weighs 70 pounds. However, if you have the shop space to store it, you might enjoy buying this motorcycle lift this weekend, and saving $50 off the regular price. Spud
Let me get something clear; what is the best way to measure and adjust your chain? This is how I have been measuring the chain: The service manual says between 35-45mm of slack in the chain. I make sure the bike is fully loaded down, then have someone sit on it to compress the rear suspension. Then I take a ruler and pull the chain down, meaure the lowere limit, then push the chain up, measure the upper limit. If it's within that 10mm limit I leave it be; if not I tighten or loosen it. Am I jacked up? Also, I have been lubing the chain every 300 miles or so (which usually means everyday). I was using 80w-90 gear oil for a while until I found some actually gear oil in a moto shop.
Bike unloaded / suspension fully extended,then measure your slack in the middle with light tension up and down. Your front sprocket is good enough for your now ruined chain.I say this because you should always change all 3.When sprockets wear the teeth get further apart.
80-90W gear oil is an excellent chain lubricant which is recommended by many chain manufacturers. Let's see a photograph of your rear sprocket. However, even before looking at the photograph, I'm inclined to recommend you install two, new sprockets with your new drive chain. Also, I am troubled by the rotational play between your C/S sprocket and the C/S splines. The rust on the C/S sprocket itself is also disconcerting. I would like to see a macro photograph of your countershaft splines. Spud
I think the service manual measurement is for an unladen bike. Sounds like it would be too lose the way you are doing it. Could be the reason for your swing arm guide wear. OFFandON had the right idea, but I don't think it is as easy as he makes it sound Although it may be easier if you throw all your gear on the bike, then lean over the seat, grab the swing arm and compress the suspension until the swing arm is straight back from the CS sprocket. It should not be guitar string tight but shouldn't have any slack. Once you set it at that point you can check the slack measurement when you are off the bile and you will know where to set the slack when you are not compressing the suspension.
Here is a diagram of a chain drive and swing arm - with a line between the sprocket centerlines passing through the centerline of the swingarm pivot. To realize this is the tightest the chain will ever get, over the suspension travel, imagine the rear moving up or down from this aligned position. Since the swingarm pivot is between the sprocets, you can see that the distance between the sprockets (labelled 24" in the above image) will decrease to less and thus the chain will become more slack. Hence, if the chain slack is set to a minimum acceptable value, just loose enough to not be under tension, in this case about 1/2" of play in the center of span, at the longest distance between the two sprockets, as above, then the chain will be properly tensioned for full suspension travel. It should be not sloppy but not under any tension in this position of max tightness.
Another way is to pull the shock out of the bike. Send it out for new oil and a service, then move the swingarm through it's arc (with the tire and chain installed of course) and measure it as described above. After shock is reinstalled, put the bike on the stand and push the bottom of the chain up towards the bottom of the swingarm. Take a photo of the resulting distance and stick it in your owner's manual.
